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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Coffs Harbour
    Posts
    2,018

    Default Triton Router height knob wont grip

    I have had my triton router mounted under a bench for a few years with no problem.

    But I have had a few problems lately.

    I had difficulty raising the spindle high enough for the spindle to lock. I took the router out of the table and found fine dust compacted in the columns and removed it.
    Generally all the parts were surprising clean and no rust anywhere that I could see.
    The spindle now plunged to full depth but the spindle still wouldn't look.
    After removing the guards and collect I found that I had burred the holes as a result of the spindle locking pin failing to fully engage.

    Once the burs were cleaned up with a mill file it worked perfectly.

    The fine height adjustment isn't working. The height adjust a small amount then drops back down. The adjustment knob isn't holding too well either.

    I assume that there is a part inside the knob that has worn down but haven't been will to dismantle the knob incase I can't reassemble it.
    The problem could be more dust or something bumped out of place but it has done a fair bit of work so it is reasonable to expect something has worn out.

    Where can I buy a replacement knob and what is involved in putting it on?

    Cheers
    Scally
    __________________________________________
    The ark was built by an amateur
    the titanic was built by professionals

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Sydney Upper North Shore
    Posts
    4,470

    Default

    Formite rayintheuk has some great instructions on dismantling the Triton routers. This is for the TRA001

    Dismantling the Triton TRA001 3¼HP Router

    I believe he also sells Triton spares?

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    1,301

    Default

    Ray's instructions are first class.
    You need to examine the orange knob for wear in the teeth, and if you have a white nylon height winder post then replace it with a metal one.
    Parts are affordable form Tool Spares Online in the UK.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Coffs Harbour
    Posts
    2,018

    Default

    Thanks guys, I have had a couple of reads of Ray's instructions.
    I'll decide what parts I should order.

    The height winder will be first on the list. I might seek some recommendations or if the full plunge handle assembly is a better option.


    When they arrive I'll go about replacing them.
    I don't want to be without the router while waiting for the parts.


    Thanks
    Scally
    __________________________________________
    The ark was built by an amateur
    the titanic was built by professionals

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
    Posts
    2,636

    Default

    Scally,
    I have a practically new TR001 (out of warranty, but barely used) with the same problem of the adjusting knob not holding position. I can watch it steadily unwinding while the router is running. I have to rely on the plunge lock to hold the router at the selected height. It wasn't like this out of the box.

    Lappa,
    Thanks for the link. Hopefully I can find the problem using those instructions.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
    Posts
    2,636

    Default

    Scally,
    any update on your TRA001?

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    McBride BC Canada
    Posts
    3,543

    Default

    I bought a Rotozip, needing to cut a 3mm track maybe 30mm deep in wood.
    I figured that it would best be done in 2 passes and that absolute accuracy wasn't necessary (rough stage of a wood carving).
    There's a crude cage sort of fitting to set the depth. Adjustment set wing nut would not hold. 100% genuine plastic.
    Scary when it failed at 20,000rpm.

    I don't know the name of them but they function as lock washers.
    Flat circle of metal, quite thin, actually, ring of 20(?) twisted teeth around the outside edge.
    Little ones have the teeth on the inside sometimes. 3mm to 25mm, maybe bigger.
    Took the cage apart and fitted one of these lock washers.
    Absolutely solid.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Coffs Harbour
    Posts
    2,018

    Default

    I havent ordered new parts yet I have been busy trying to keep out of this hot weather.

    Robson it sounds like you have a solution but I can't picture your flat circle of metal or where to place it..Could you put up a pic or a link please?
    Scally
    __________________________________________
    The ark was built by an amateur
    the titanic was built by professionals

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    McBride BC Canada
    Posts
    3,543

    Default

    The depth cage is supposed to slide up and down on a guide rod on the tool.
    The wingnut/bolt is supposed to clamp those two slippery smooth plastic pieces together.
    Bulltweet.
    I put the tooth washer between the rod and the cage. The original wingnut/bolt crushes everything together.
    I'll try to get some pictures.
    Most of the time, all of my pictures get deleted so I get really pi$$y and quit.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    1,301

    Default

    Are you talking about a Triton router, or something completely different?

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    McBride BC Canada
    Posts
    3,543

    Default

    Something quite different. The thin lock(?) washer was a good fix to stop parts sliding agianst eachother where there was a lack of friction.
    If this is an unsuitable plan, so be it.

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Sydney Upper North Shore
    Posts
    4,470

    Default

    I believe they are called star washers- you can buy internal tooth and external tooth types. I have pulled my MOF001 adjustment apart and you couldn't use one on it. I'm looking at packing an O ring in the adjustment to add a little friction to the adjustment.
    At the moment, I use the plunge lock then gently tighten the height adjustment so it's lightly loaded. It generally won't wind down then.

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Crowborough, East Sussex, UK
    Posts
    820

    Default

    There is no benefit in replacing the handle assembly, as the wear will be totally in the worm shaft. Just replace that with the alloy version and you'll be fine. REMOVE THE PLUNGE SPRING and leave the plunge spring cap off when using in the table. This prevents dust compaction in the spring cap which - in turn - prevents full height adjustment and spindle lock.

    Ray

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    1,301

    Default

    Ray,
    I replaced my nylon shaft with the metal one, and that fixed the problem at the time, But later I found wear in the orange handle assembly, and replaced the worn part.
    You can't know where all the wear is until you disassemble and take a look.
    One thing that definitely stops movement is to always use the lock lever.
    regards
    Chris

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 1999
    Location
    Glen Iris, Vic, Australia
    Posts
    2,198

    Default

    "...and leave the plunge spring cap off..."

    Still learning something new every day!

    Thanks Ray!
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

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