Thread: Triton Router - Locking on/off switch

One of the router's main advantages is its ability to allow above-the-table bit changes, using only one wrench. In order to do this, the spindle locks automatically - using an angled cam - and the on/off switch is locked internally as the plunge is fully completed.

The router, along with its bigger brother, is designed to fit directly to the Triton Router Table, which uses a thin metal connecting plate. The routers will also fit via a standard router insert plate (such as a Rousseau or Woodpecker), but will not succeed if fitted to a much thicker surface, as seems to be the case here. The picture below shows the larger router fitted via a Rousseau phenolic plate, but the fitting of the smaller machine would produce an identical protrusion through the insert.



If I haven't identified your problem correctly, I apologise, but the LAST thing you want to do is to fire it up with the plunge lock engaged, even if you could!

Ray.

Ray, there appears to be a problem with your attachment.

I get the same, it's not working.

As much as I really dislike them, you sound like a prime candidate for a router bit extension.



This one is sold by Professional Woodwork Supplies - the owner comes on these forums under the name Gwhat - suggest you send him a PM (or an email) - I'm sure he'll be able to help you out.
www.woodworksupplies.com.au


.

Originally Posted by Stuart.

As much as I really dislike them, you sound like a prime candidate for a router bit extension.



This one is sold by Professional Woodwork Supplies - the owner comes on these forums under the name Gwhat - suggest you send him a PM (or an email) - I'm sure he'll be able to help you out.
www.woodworksupplies.com.au


.

Seems to make more sense to me to spend $100 on phenolic router plate, rather than $125 on a router bit extension.

Hi All,

thank you for your replies and assistance.

Thankfully I have been able to come to an affordable compromise involving:

1) removing more pieces of the router to get more plunge depth, which was only an issue as I had bolts that were too long initially;
2) longer shaft bits (the ones I had were quite short in comparison - that's the cheapskate in me coming out...)

Now I can plunge far enough to get an effective depth cut.

At some stage I will have to get a proper plate insert as has been suggested above, and strongly considered it this time - however as it is my entire router "table" cost me around $15 to put together so far, and will do the job for long enough to at least get used to the whole system and throw a few bits of wood around and generally make a mess.

Just as an aside, if any end up reading this thread in 25 years trying to find cheaper bits with longer shafts that won't break the bank, then the econocut router bits from Carbitool as the best cheap alternative I have found so far. Obviously they won't do you as well as their high quality brothers, but they are far superior to any other cheap bits I have seen - particularly for the learner/newbie.

Thanks all again for your assistance!

sCORCH

Originally Posted by Big Shed

Ray, there appears to be a problem with your attachment.

Thanks for that - fixed now.

Ray.