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Thread: triton router table
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5th July 2007, 05:56 PM #1
triton router table
I like many things about the Triton router table except the gap that is open because of the two part fence. Small things easily get diverted and a moulding is easily runined.
Yesterday I used this idea belowfor the first time and many jobs in future I will put on a false fence again if there is any risk of work being ruined.
woody U.K.
"Common looking people are the best in the world: that is the reason the Lord makes so many of them." ~ Abraham Lincoln
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6th July 2007, 12:23 PM #2Senior Member
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False fence or options
I know many router tables use a more flexible fence arrangement. Having watched Roger Gifkins' approach to box making, intend to create a series of such false fences with specific cutout for different bits.
Thought of going that extra step?
Regards, CJCJ
Just when the caterpillar thought the world was over, it became a butterfly Anon
Be the change you wish to see in the world Ghandi
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6th July 2007, 05:23 PM #3
Zero tolerance, I mean clearance, thats the way to go.
woody U.K.
"Common looking people are the best in the world: that is the reason the Lord makes so many of them." ~ Abraham Lincoln
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6th July 2007, 07:01 PM #4
I think the gap between the fences is a definite advantage of the Triton fence. particularly since it's adjustable. I have an Incra fence system now and I miss that gap. The triton system is great for jointing small boards by offsetting the fences with supplied shims, edge planning and allows very large bits to be placed in the router, like a raised panel bit for instance. I used the same technique as John, with several sacrificial fences which I simple clamped on the ends.
As mentioned, you definitely need support above the bit if you are dealing with smaller pieces. Without the gap, I'm trying to work out how I'm going to do that on the Incra, without the bit hitting the metal fence behind the sacrificial fence.
The problem with the Triton as I see it, isn't the fence. It's the uneveness of the table top with all the different sections being different heights.If at first you don't succeed, give something else a go. Life is far too short to waste time trying.
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6th July 2007, 08:24 PM #5
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6th July 2007, 10:12 PM #6
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6th July 2007, 10:40 PM #7
This is what I have been doing using the zero tolerance fence, it stopped the box going into the gap.
But managed a nice bit of beading without the extra fence. It was a 15mmx15mm batten and rebated to 12 1/2 mm, It helps to have nice timber with grain not throwing up any snags.
.woody U.K.
"Common looking people are the best in the world: that is the reason the Lord makes so many of them." ~ Abraham Lincoln
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7th July 2007, 08:13 AM #8SENIOR MEMBER
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Aye - I've despaired over that issue a good many times....
In the end, took out the central disc - so now only have to contend with the lipped black plastic piece, which STILL buggers the job on narrow width stock... uphill first... then see-saw in the middle... then downhill...
Getting round to making the perfectly flat router table top - sooner or later... trouble is my routers have limited "reach" (more like ducks necks than swans necks, Ey) so using laminated 35mm benchtop limits the amount of bit I can have poking up above the table... ogee and half round with a flat is impossible.
Replacing my routers is an expensive option...
Collet extention =
Phenolic insert =
So I'm gonna try and get round it by using 6mm steel inserts as I mentioned in another post a while back. Local steel shop made up 3 6mm steel inserts with 35mm holes cut centrally, big enough to screw my router bases directly onto them...
Been sidetracked lately - daughter's house reno, new quad bike, flamin truck battery, cold weather...
Back to the thread... Yeah, sacrificial fence is the way to go... screw on a new piece, fence-length. Bring it up close to the bit and secure one end of the fence firm enough to make it a pivot point. Start the router and ease the fence against the bit and you have a zero clearance slot. Keep the sacrificial fences. The shape of the bit will identify it and the screwholes will relocate the fences when you want to use them again.
cheers
JedoWhen all the world said I couldn't do it - they were right...
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