Thread: My version of a cross cut sled

Good one. I can't think of any flaws in the idea.
Most other large examples use the edges of the table, so using the mitre slot shouldn't be any more or less accurate.

I would be concerned, that the piece falling onto the table top could be picked up by the blade and thrown. I would prefer to see the sled go past the blade.

Originally Posted by chrisb691

I would be concerned, that the piece falling onto the table top could be picked up by the blade and thrown. I would prefer to see the sled go past the blade.

Do you mean cover the entire tabletop?
If so I think it would be good to put a runner in the other table slot for more accuracy.
Keith.

Originally Posted by BEKKY

Do you mean cover the entire tabletop?
If so I think it would be good to put a runner in the other table slot for more accuracy.
Keith.

Yes, I think it should cover more of the top, and picking up the other slot would be an advantage. Going past the blade means that the work is fully supported, and the offcut doesn't drop.

Yes as I stated in the initial post, I plan to put a piece of MDF on the offcut side. This will not travel with the sled otherwise it would simply be a full sized sled which is what I was trying to avoid. The simplest way of securing this would be by using the slot in a similar fasion but maybe fixed to the mdf so it wont slide at all. I can also utilise the riving knife when cutting wider pieces.
One small flaw in the design is that I cover the height winder. This is not too hard to overcome though.

What about a piece of MDF the same thickness as the current sled? Secured to the mitre slot?

I recall something comercial being to that effect.

Sorry perthwoody, but I dont like it.

I have never been a big fan of sleds for the triton in any case. I have always achieved satisfactory results by screwing sacrificial mdf fences to the good old triton triangle through the holes provided for that purpose, as George demonstrated on the video. I actually made sliding stop blocks attached to the mdf fence to allow for cutting multiple pieces of the same length. similar results can be achieved, particularly on larger pieces by using an extention table. either of these methods has the added advantage of maintaining the full depth of cut capability of the triton whereas a sled reduces the depth of cut by the thickness of the base of the sled, which by necessity cannot be too thin.

Having said that, If you are going to go to all the trouble of making a sled, then at least make one that maintains or improves the quality of the cut and maintains the standard of safety and dust collection. Can you fit the blade guard onto the triton while you are using the sled or do the high parts prevent you making a full pass with the guard fitted? I hope you can fit the guard but left it off for clarity in the photos, as they say in all the woodworking books. running a sled down one dado in a piece of mdf supported by one piece of timber in a slot on a triton tabletop MAY prove satisfactory if done properly but it may have some accuracy issues compared to supporting a similar structure at two points such as opposite sides of the sled running on the sides of the table top. just as it is not wise to use only one clamp when two can be fitted I would rather see two points of support for guiding a sled accurately through a blade.

You say that you are going to fit a piece of mdf of the same thickness in a static position on the other side of the blade to support the offcut. that would be essential to avoid a potentially dangerous situation as chrisb pointed out. the different heights of the table on opposite sides of the blade would also significantly affect the dust collection capabilities if the blade guard is fitted. (and even more so if it cant be fitted)

But wait a minute, if you are going to cover the other side of the table and anchor it in a static position, you are probably going to invest more material and time and effort into doing that than making a full width sled instead of half a sled and half an artificial tabletop. Then, when the sled is new at least, you have true zero-clearance, to support the workpiece and prevent tearout.

Then you could add cleats to the sides of the mdf to slide down the sides of the tabletop instead of weakening the mdf by cutting dados into its underside. you could also add a blade guard to the sled.

A full, fixed, artificial table top has some merit, however. I have been considering making a tabletop to go over the triton, out of melamine coated mdf and fit two standard sized mitre tracks, one each side of the blade to run my Incra mitre gauge down. But I might just buy a cast iron topped table saw instead. hopefully there will be some specials to be had in october at the timber and working with wood show in melbourne, its only a few months away.

I've posted this pic before, but it seems relevant because it is a two sided version and uses both rails.

I've used it for about four years now, many hundred times, and it still cuts square as I can measure, surprisingly because I didn't make a real good job of the rails - they are just screwed on with no slot.

I used to take the dust collector off the normal position and put it on the sled as shown but it didn't do much except get in the way so now I just lift it off the Triton splitter and turn it 180 degrees and put it back to keep it out of the way. If the cut is too long I just remove the splitter and guard and tie the pipe out of the way.

When not in use it it hangs on hooks from the right hand rail, from the two holes you can see, whilst the normal fence hangs on the left hand rail, so changing over takes a few seconds. I'm planning to make an improved version in the near future.

For safety sake and complete stability, making the sled the full width of the table is the better way to go. As pointed out you will have support for the piece of timber that is being cut. You are relying on one runner to stabilise the sled. 2 runners will make your sled much more stable and is in once piece.

I don't see too much wrong with it, once you add the mdf the other side as you have already said.
I can't see it being anymore dangerous than using the protractor.

A piece of polycarb from front to rear, similar to where glen has the dust extractor would be handy, would act as a bit of a safety guard and stop sawdust being thrown back at you

Doug, The use of the original guard in its original position is not possible, as a full size sled would have to pass under, which would work for the first wide cut, but then you would have 2 smaller sleds

Thanks guys, I appreciate all coments. As I stated earlier I ama novice and getting others to share their knowledge and opinions is great for me. I may end up making a full sized sled but will perservere with what I have. I'll make up the other piece of MDF to support offcuts and incorporate some acrylic/polycarb as some sort of guard. Can anyone tell me where to get the plastic in Perth, preferably a source of offcuts and what thickness should I be looking for?

Originally Posted by bpj1968

..... A piece of polycarb from front to rear, similar to where glen has the dust extractor would be handy, would act as a bit of a safety guard and stop sawdust being thrown back at you ......

Yes I'll put that in the next one, but make it removable so I can best see for those very fine cuts where I just want to take off half a whisker.

The other simple thing will be to put a sawdust groove at the bottom of the wall. If I'm not attentive bits of sawdust lodge in the corner and throw the accuracy off. Also make the vertical wall away from the blade area lower to make it easier to use clamps.

You may all have to forgive me ( or not up to you ) but why fit a cross cut sled to a triton, when it has the function of being able to flip it all upside down, inside out and hooly dooly theres your cross cut saw?

Because you never have to flip the triton again, making it much mrore efficient. You also gain a major increase in accuracy, and repeatability.