Thread: 16 inch panel saw.

Nicely done Stewie.

It looks like a "pocket battleship" of panel saws.

Regards
Paul

D-8 panel saws were available in lengths from 16 to 24 inches at different times over the course of the saw's manufacture.
Online Reference of Disston Saws -- D8 Model

Good save, Stewie. I've seen a few cut-down saws masquarading as panel saws - you can spot them by the larger handle with 'too many' saw bolts. The cut-downs are also heavier & thicker than a 'genuine' panel, but better to get some good use out of what would otherwise have been a basket-case than consigning it to landfill, eh?

Cheers,

Looks good Stewie. After removing corrosion did you give the plate any form of surface coating or is the dark colouring just carefully saved patina? I "restored" a no-name $2 op shop rip saw and used buffing discs and Evaporust; my plate is still dark but has a much more mottled appearance so I was intrigued as to how you achieved such an even finish. In my case the aim was to just remove rust and try my hand at sharpening to get a usable tool but I'd like to try and restore some decent quality old backsaws and keeping the patina would be desirable. Bushmiller once told me he used razor blades, WD40 and fine wet and dry paper for this, what's your preferred method please?

Chief; I use a high speed brass wire wheel that's fitted to a 4 inch grinder to clean up old saw plates. Its far gentler on the surface steel than those metal flap discs being sold on the market. After clean up, the saw plates are then wiped down with a honing oil to protect the surface against later corrosion. I have trialed paste wax in the past and its a poor substitute compared to the effectiveness of a surface oil.



The following shows an old framing square that's covered in surface rust and caulking residue.



After 2-3 min. work on the long side of the square.

Looks great, Stewie. A new lease on life.

The brass brush in the grinder is a great idea. I may have to borrow that.

Cheers,
Luke

I have found brass wire brushes invaluable. They do not damage steel. However they are hard to find now. The one's sold at Bunnings are steel wire plated in brass. It becomes apparent as soon as they are used. Does anyone have a link for proper (solid) brass wire types?

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks for the tip Stewie, I'll keep an eye out for brass wire wheels. Incidentally; I don't use the flap wheels as I agree with you in that they tend to be far too aggressive. I use the 50mm impregnated fibre buffing discs made by 3M with a Screwlock fitting designed for air powered die grinders and buffers. Even they will cut into steel if used too hard but I find them relatively easy to control.

Originally Posted by Chief Tiff

Bushmiller once told me he used razor blades, WD40 and fine wet and dry paper for this

Chief

I use Wet & Dry exclusively. I know that some people use razor blades, but I only use them on my face (and it's been a long time since I have come up bright and shiny) so I think in that regard you have confused me with another.

I should also add that I wrap the W & D around a small block of wood and successively use many grades. I haven't tried a brass wheel, although I do have one somewhere (real brass). I would advocate very careful use of a powered device if you are hoping to uncover or retain any degree of etch, which is very often the final means of identification and an important component of a saw's value. Providing there are no residual swirling effects remaining on the plate after use the brass wheel may be an alternative and particularly if it is for yourself. However, if the plate, following "reconditioning," displays circular marks it is the kiss of death for the collector market and I have seen many saws spoilt this way by well meaning sellers.

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

Chief

I use Wet & Dry exclusively. I know that some people use razor blades, but I only use them on my face (and it's been a long time since I have come up bright and shiny) so I think in that regard you have confused me with another.

Oops, sorry then, I must have misremembered the conversation. For me though cutting through an etch or leaving swirl marks won't be an issue, I'm looking for the odd cheap saw to restore to a working condition, not a collectable one. If I come across something that hints at collectibility I generally pass if there's a chance anything I do will cause anguish to a collector!
I Like what Stewie's done with a saw that many would consign to a scrap heap, my knowledge is way insufficient to tell if it was ever a collectable piece before surgery but now this tool can have a new working life.

I have used one of the red, nylon brush wheels. I think I got it from Smith and Arrow or another one of the dedicated abrasives companies in Aus.

I've had good results. It removes rust without removing much metal. I'm not sure if there's one which will mount in an angle grinder, but they definitely make them to fit a jacobs style chuck