Thread: The latest #7 scraping

Hi Michael

.0015" is a horror? Thats 0.038mm or the thickness of 2 human hairs. Standard Metric feeler gauges don't go that thin, typically 0.05mm
I will need to up my standards

PS: the scrapped plane looks cool..

Cheers M

Isn't .0015 the smallest leaf on a feeler gauge ? The standard ones ? Or are they normally thicker on a standard and .0015 is a special?
How thin can you get as the thinnest on feeler gauges?

I was looking at these this morning.

LPR Toolmakers - Feeler Gauge [.0015" to .025"]

As well, what is a decent straight edge for doing this work. I possibly asked this last time I was interested. In a previous thread somewhere.

These look great but pricey as!
Precision Straight Edge 750mm - Chilled Cast Iron Scraped To Flatness In Microns - LPR Toolmakers

Rob.

Hi Rob

- yes .0015 is smallest for imperial - but I never use imperial- except when sort screw for old planes. 0.05 is typical for metric- but thinner is available.

Originally Posted by MartinCH

Hi Michael

.0015" is a horror? Thats 0.038mm or the thickness of 2 human hairs. Standard Metric feeler gauges don't go that thin, typically 0.05mm
I will need to up my standards

PS: the scrapped plane looks cool..

Cheers M

Thanks Martin. It is when we’re talking about scraping. It takes time to remove the metal. If I’m taking fine shavings say 0.04mm and the plane is concave by the same amount you see what will happen. I have an imperial set of gauges

Hi Rob

Long precision surfaces are pretty costly.

You can make one. easily enough- this method can hit pretty high precision.

https://cdn.woodsmith.com/files/issu...raightedge.pdf

Obviously timber will move more than granite but how long do you need it straight for?
You could make one piece granite for a long term stablity.

Cheers M

Here is another description of the process- adding the use of bluing to help spot the high points... The Whitworth Three Plates Method — Eric Weinhoffer

One could scrape 3 planes at the same time and make them flat out of nothing- just some blue compound...

Rob, the way I blue the soles a straight edge would not be much use - too narrow. I pivot the plane on the plate both to blue it evenly and see where it hinges. Swinging one end will see a pivot point at the other end about 1/3 in and same for the other end when the work is close to flat. Take your risks with a wood straight edge. Once you have a scraped #7 this will do the job of the straight edge really for our needs. A good size plate is 450x450 as it will do everything up to a #7 and maybe a #8 at a squeeze. It won’t fit fully on the plate. A 450x300 will do up to #6 and 7 at a pinch (doesn’t fit the diagonal). You could call Engineering Tooling Supplies in Qld where I got my 450x450 and see if they know a supplier your way. They were the most economical I found. Unfortunately shipping to VIC might make it too expensive from them. Scraping three cast iron plates of sufficient size sounds like a bridge too far.

I uploaded a video of the blue spotting on the finished plane here. Good even coverage except for the hollow under the tote. Pin on Pins by you

This no 7 is my plane that Michael has kindly scraped for me. Paid for with $ of course. + postage.
A wartime standard Stanley 7 with the plastic or Bakelite knob That is in nice tight hardly used condition. The Cosman AdjuStar Wheel will be used on it. Pictured in here.
Anyone here tried the AdjuStar 2.0 vintage Stanley knob replacement from Rob Cosman?

That video looks great Michael. The hollow at the tote area wont be an issue in its use.
And I cant wait to try it out!!
Before you send it back I may get you to send it express I think. Its probably only an extra $10 or something like that?

The straight edge question was with me wanting to accurately measure some of my other planes using a feeler gauge.

As you know . I have a 7 Bedrock that is my go to jointer that is out of whack on the sole. That's from what I can see with a 300 mm Moore and Wright combination rule.
I get perfect joints with it but its done by compensating with how the straight finishing passes leave the two board edges. I have to come in at the end of getting the rest of the joint right and take those compensating passes from the middle of each board usually. With the plane angled across the joint to present a shorter sole area. The BR 7 is concave between the knob and tote area on the sole.

So I cant wait to compare a known straight sole 7 to my BR 7. There still should be the need for compensating passes probably. On the longer boards. Ive got a top to do at around 3M ( I think ) soon.

Rob

Originally Posted by MartinCH

Hi Rob

Long precision surfaces are pretty costly.

You can make one. easily enough- this method can hit pretty high precision.

https://cdn.woodsmith.com/files/issu...raightedge.pdf

Obviously timber will move more than granite but how long do you need it straight for?
You could make one piece granite for a long term stablity.

Cheers M

Thanks for this link Martin. Very timely for me as I have just realised how NOT straight my 600mm steel rule is.

Originally Posted by auscab

As you know . I have a 7 Bedrock that is my go to jointer that is out of whack on the sole. That's from what I can see with a 300 mm Moore and Wright combination rule.
I get perfect joints with it but its done by compensating with how the straight finishing passes leave the two board edges. I have to come in at the end of getting the rest of the joint right and take those compensating passes from the middle of each board usually. With the plane angled across the joint to present a shorter sole area. The BR 7 is concave between the knob and tote area on the sole.

So I cant wait to compare a known straight sole 7 to my BR 7. There still should be the need for compensating passes probably. On the longer boards. Ive got a top to do at around 3M ( I think ) soon.

Rob

Rob as you've worked out from using the BR 7 it is likely concave and it then follows that you have to skew the plane to get the hump in the middle down in the compensating passes. You won't have to skew the scraped plane though you will still have to make a few increasingly long passes about the middle if you end up with a hump on the edge. If you can get your board flat off the jointer then a few full passes will do the job. If you instead have a hollow along the board (concave edge) either from jointing or handplaning you will also have to do some passes on the ends if the hollow is less than a couple of mm in a 2.4m board. The #7 is capable of getting the concave out of an edge down to leaving a hollow ~2mm over 2.4m (less for a shorter board more for a longer). At the point the edge has a hollow of this depth, the plane will not recognise it and will take nice full shavings. I did the maths of this years ago as I've posted several times, but last week I jointed some 3m boards with my newly scraped #7 that proved this in the real world. I may do a post about it later.