Adjustable Sticking Board

[derekcohen]

I have been asked by my WW club to do a demonstration on the Veritas Combination Plane. It seemed like a good reason to overhaul my sticking board this afternoon - this is one I use for smaller pieces and drawer parts. I thought that if it turned out well, I would make a long version.



What's new? Well, the screws at the left front, that acted as stops, have been replaced with a solid serrated stop ...





This was inspired by a recent modification to my bench, when I added a serrated steel planing stop to a dog ...



The article is here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTo ... gStop.html

The underside of the sticking board now has non-slip. This is available in rolls for stair treads.



I needed to try the sticking board out with the Veritas Combo Plane. The first demonstration would be a simple groove for a drawer side or drawer front. The wood is Hard Maple ...



Start with thin shavings at the end, and work back to the beginning. Once the groove is established, take coarser cuts ...



This is a very straightforward joint with the grain. Easy peasy ...



I turned the board around to complete the second demonstration, which will be a bead ...



... and noted that the last third of the side was reversed grain ...



The board was just a piece from the scrap box, and it had been milled with a helical thicknesser/planer. I had not planed it after this, and when I ran a block plane up the side edge to create a slight bevel to reduce the work for the beading blade, I noticed this tearout ...



Now if I went at this with a standard plough setup (45 degree cutting angle), I am pretty certain that the board would suffer a lot more tearout. This is the difficulty with using plough planes to create beads (or other mouldings) - you really need to selected straight grain boards. Its the reason I tend to use a beader, such as the Staney/LN #66, or a scratch stock.

Recently I had the idea to add a 15 degree micro backbevel to these blades to create a 60 degree cutting angle. This is written up here:http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReview ... Plane.html

So, trying this out here: Again, starting at the end, and taking light cuts ...



I thought that I had got it all. The surface looked pretty good ...



... but with raked lighting I could see it was still torn out. I think that this was the original tearout. It is hard to tell if I added more.



The tearout was a lot shallower than it appears here, and only needed a few passes with a scraper to be gone ...



I was happy with the results so far ..



Now can I do dados on a sticking board?

Regards from Perth

Derek

[ian]

Derek, what size bead did you cut?

[Basilg]

Derek

I made up my Sticking board from bits and pieces of 1/4" ply, MDF and offcuts of wood.

Originally it was going to be small to suit a project I was doing, then I decided to make a larger one to suit future work.

I like your idea of a toothed steel plate on a dog, so i will borrow this, and see if it can be done on my 3/4" thick dogs.

Regards

[Mnb]

Those are both beautiful boards guys.

I made myself a simple planing board and have been thinking it could do with a movable fence that's parallel to the edge. At this point I would use it for the edges of boards - for some reason I can get the edge square but I struggle with the straight aspect. I was wondering if you could tell me a bit about sticking boards and their uses as I haven't heard of them before.

[derekcohen]

Derek, what size bead did you cut?

Ian, the bead was 3/16". This is a common size I have used in the past.

I like your idea of a toothed steel plate on a dog, so i will borrow this, and see if it can be done on my 3/4" thick dogs.

Basil, you will absolutely love this! I am going to make another for the tail vise as well.

Your sticking board is excellent! My longer one is going to be 1800.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[derekcohen]

I was wondering if you could tell me a bit about sticking boards and their uses as I haven't heard of them before.

Mnb, I have used the small sticking board for small parts, such as grooving this drawer ...



That drawer is only 1 1/4" high.



You could not hold work this small without a sticking board.

More typically, a sticking board is used to plane mouldings ...



It is essentially a narrow planing board.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[ian]

Ian, the bead was 3/16". This is a common size I have used in the past.

that explains my double take.
I was thinking that the 1/16" groove looked a little large, but then again, I've been using the 1/4" beading cutter.

[Mnb]

Thanks Derek. It looks extremely useful and basically what I was thinking about making. Nice to have a visual and a name.

Edit; I hadn't thought of the hard wood edges though. Will add them in

[Basilg]

Ian, the bead was 3/16". This is a common size I have used in the past.



Basil, you will absolutely love this! I am going to make another for the tail vise as well.

Your sticking board is excellent! My longer one is going to be 1800.

Regards from Perth

Derek

I will need to track down some suitable inserts that I can use on my dogs, since mine are only 3/4" thick the i/4" inserts would leave very little of the Dog.

From memory my sticking board is a little under 1800 long which is the max'm I could get out of the offcuts I had at the time.

Regards

[Basilg]

Those are both beautiful boards guys.

I made myself a simple planing board and have been thinking it could do with a movable fence that's parallel to the edge. At this point I would use it for the edges of boards - for some reason I can get the edge square but I struggle with the straight aspect. I was wondering if you could tell me a bit about sticking boards and their uses as I haven't heard of them before.

Mob

Thanks. In addition to what you will find on Derek's website I suggest you search around on the Web. I am sure you will find lots of info on the use of sticking boards and how to put one together.

Regards

[Sam]

Like this ?
http://www.walkemooretools.com/wp/wp...rd-Article.pdf

[derekcohen]

Similar to that, Sam, but not the same. A long shooting board has a resemblance, but works differently .... difference fence and work holding system. It would be useful to combine them into one, and that is my plan. At present I use my bench top as a shooting board. The video below shows Terry Gordon doing the same (long shooting board) ...



Regards from Perth

Derek

[Mnb]

Combining the two is what I was intending I guess.

Unfortunately I don't have a tail vice. Or dog holes, though that's easier to remedy. I have a long planing board quickly knocked up out of mdf that I clamp to the bench. I added another long piece on top parallel to the edge to support the work piece rather than trying to hold it or clamp it. At the moment I have the support piece or 'fence' tacked down and pull it up and move it as needed. It works o.k. for face and edge planing. It could be a lot better.

[derekcohen]

Mnb

The best substitute for a tail vice is the doe's foot ...





There is more information here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMad...aningStop.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[D.W.]

Similar to that, Sam, but not the same. A long shooting board has a resemblance, but works differently .... difference fence and work holding system. It would be useful to combine them into one, and that is my plan. At present I use my bench top as a shooting board. The video below shows Terry Gordon doing the same (long shooting board) ...



Regards from Perth

Derek

I think that's probably fairly uncommon practice (to shoot edges of boards that long and wide), or perhaps temporary practice until you can match plane a joint like that quickly. It is good exposure for people who might be making drawer bottoms out of glued-together boards, though.