Thread: Advice on identifying and restoring Disston saw

Ian, definitely not muddying the water for me. Definitely expanding my knowledge

Unfortunately I can't tell you any more about this piece as it was here when I bought the house. The previous owner did hail from NSW about 10 years before moving to Tassie, and was a woodworker himself, so perhaps he did bring it with him.

I will take some better photos of the larger piece I have (the piece that the 'cheek' was cut from) as it shows more detail and more end grain.

However, although it is very hard, and I used it to replace the blade guides in my old 80s bandsaw, it's not as hard as the blocks I replaced! I took a look at these last night (will post some pics) and this must be another she-oak as it's similar, but much, much harder based on my attempting to press my thumbnail into a corner edge. The piece I thought was Buloke will show a slight dent, the other pieces from the bandsaw I can barely notice anything- my nail will bend before making an impression. It's also much darker too.

Now, this is far from your scientific discussions above, more a practical observation from my-'noob'-self

So thinking that's it probably another she-oak, I'm hoping it's the Western Australian version (A. fraseriana)...

Regards
Adam (Frazer )

Originally Posted by Stratman

.....So thinking that's it probably another she-oak, I'm hoping it's the Western Australian version (A. fraseriana)...

Well, Adam, I don't think anyone could contradict you if you say it's fraseriana, it & torulosa look remarkably similar to me..

I haven't used much W.A she-oak (just two pieces have come my way, in fact) so my experience of it borders on the non-existent, but one of those pieces is quite dense & so like the torulosa (of which I've used lots!) I wouldn't be able to tell it apart if I hadn't labelled it. I saw quite a bit of furniture made from their she-oak on a trip to W.A. a while back. I lifted a couple of tables when no one was looking & was surprised how light they seemed. From my experience of torulosa, I expected them to be a lot heavier. I checked just now & found a figure of .75 for the air-dry density of fraseriana, while torulosa was given as .96 - enough of a difference to notice pretty easily if you picked up a similar-sized board of each. You get different figures for density depending where you look, and the two almost certainly overlap a bit, but I think you can take it that any fraseriana you come across is likely to be a bit lighter & softer than any torulosa. I'll have to try it tomorrow, out of curiosity, but I doubt I could make a thumb nail impression in any of the torulosa I've got, which may indicate your sample isn't that species.

BTW, the wood that is supposed to be the bees' knees for bearings is Lignum vitae (Guaiacum officinale). You sometimes see bits of it for sale at wood shows. I bought a small piece a few years ago, intending to make a plane body from it, but it's still sitting under the house awaiting further attention. I've sort of drifted away from wooden-bodies planes these last few years, so maybe I should send it to you for your bandsaw - I reckon there'd be enough blade blocks even in this small piece to keep you going for the next 50 years or so...

Cheers,

Thanks Ian

It has to be, for my name's sake

Seriously though, who knows!...lol

Here's a few more detailed pictures. And the pieces I pulled out of the bandsaw. Much darker and much, much harder. I can't depress the wood with this one at all.
These are what I at first thought was Buloke:
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And these are from the bandsaw:
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These probably aren't much help, and it's not important, I've just posted more for interest.

Lignum vitae was the first timber I heard of when I was looking into 'hard timber' species when looking to first try and identify that larger piece I have. I've also heard it's great for the bandsaw guides.

Oh, I bought another Disston saw off eBay

Regards Adam

Originally Posted by IanW

maybe I should send it to you for your bandsaw - I reckon there'd be enough blade blocks even in this small piece to keep you going for the next 50 years or so...

Cheers,

Hey... I wouldn't say "no"!

A couple of pics from the eBay auction. I think it's 1896-1917 judging by the medallion. Can't see the etch on the plate unfortunately. But it's a 7 TPI (from the stamp at the heel). Probably not the best condition, but it wasn't too much at all (got it for $57 + postage).
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Regards Adam

Looks to be in pretty good nick from the pics, Adam, apart from the little triangle missing from the toe - probably some clown using it to open paint cans. From the proportions I'll predict it's another D8. You have to expect a few blemishes on something of such a venerable age - I have plenty, & I'm probably a decade or more younger than your saw.

If you can still read the stamp at the heel, that's a plus, it indicates plenty of life in the old girl yet. The stamp tends to disappear after years of use & many re-sharpens.

Just a pedantic point, this will almost certainly have six teeth per inch unless someone has altered the pitch (not altogether rare). The Murricans use "points per inch", which is approximately one more than the tpi. At that pitch it will make a moderately coarse crosscut, or a fine-ish rip, depending on how you choose to sharpen it....

More fun!
Cheers

Thanks Ian. Yes I noticed the little triangle - probably! I thought it might have been a D8 too. I like them

Good to know about the stamp too.

Ah yes! I knew that!

So the first D8, assuming I sharpen it rip, will be an even finer rip. Perhaps I might sharpen the first as a crosscut and this one rip? My crosscuts tend to be a more 'final' cut before planing, so would it be best to have the finer crosscut and coarser rip? Decisions, decisions...

Regards Adam

Originally Posted by Stratman

A couple of pics from the eBay auction. I think it's 1896-1917 judging by the medallion. Can't see the etch on the plate unfortunately. But it's a 7 TPI (from the stamp at the heel). Probably not the best condition, but it wasn't too much at all (got it for $57 + postage).
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Regards Adam

Adam,
I was just thinking about when your next saw would arrive an load an behold here it is.
That is a very nice little score,
I would say maybe a little on the high side price wise,but it’s in good nick lots of saw plate left.

Can’t wIt to see your magic on this one,
If you want an old crappy saw to practice sharpening on just let me know.


Cheers Matt,

Originally Posted by Stratman

....So the first D8, assuming I sharpen it rip, will be an even finer rip. Perhaps I might sharpen the first as a crosscut and this one rip? My crosscuts tend to be a more 'final' cut before planing, so would it be best to have the finer crosscut and coarser rip? Decisions, decisions...

Each of us has our own preferences when it comes to pitch, size of saw & so on. This saw should be nicer to use for bigger jobs/long cuts than your first saw. A 26" saw allows an average-sized person to use the full extension of their arm, which not only makes the process more 'natural' (& comfortable), you get through the job in fewer, but longer strokes. So a saw size to suit you is relatively easy to assess. As to pitch, it's best to try out a few different saws to find what suits you best. If I were in your position, I would sharpen the new saw at whatever it is & use it a while. I think you are highly likely to acquire a couple more saws before too long, so look out for something that complements this one, next time..

I think I already posted this, so forgive me if I'm repeating myself (I do so frequently, according to my children!), but just to give you an idea: I have 4 handsaws (i.e. 'full-size' saws) 3 are 26 inchers and one is a 28". The 28" is a 3-5 progressive pitch ripsaw, a good brutish thing for ripping soft or hard woods from about 30mm thick to 50 or even 60mm thick. I don't rip 60mm thick hardwood every day - the hand saw is used for straightening short slabs of roughsawn stock, so I can get them over the tablesaw - I'm not averse to burning a few electrons (especially when those panels up on my roof are making more than enough to run the saw! ). The other ripsaw is about 7 tpi - a bit smoother & easier to control than its big brother when ripping 20-25mm boards.

The two crosscuts are 8 & 9 tpi respectively. I would probably only have one, a Canadian D8 that I acquired from a friend about 25 years ago, but I subsequently inherited my dads D8 when he moved on. As a kid, I loved that saw! It was always sharp, until either I or my brother got hold of it & tried cutting through nails. It has had a rough life in the 60 or so years since, and isn't the saw it once was, but it's still a reasonably good saw & gets a run often enough - there's no way I would part with it.

I tend to use my two panel saws (one rip, one x-cut, both about 10tpi) far less frequently than the 'full size' saws, those short blades mean a choppy, short stroke if sawing a piece on saw-horses, for e.g. However, they are just right for plenty enough smaller jobs to keep their place in my tool cupboard, and more convenient when I have to do some small job "off site" for MIL or one of our offspring......

I use handsaws mostly for the rougher parts of stock preparation, so I'm not after fine finishes off-saw - but these saws leave a reasonable surface, quite adequate for most purposes. I have a fair selection of backsaws when greater accuracy & finer cut surfaces are desired. Few saws will give you a flawless surface, & to be honest, it isn't worth the finicky maintenance such saws require. If you want a perfect surface, take your rough-cut piece to the shooting board..

Cheers,

Thanks Matt

Ah, I wasn't too sure on what I should be paying. I thought this one was a decent looking one, and due to its age, thought I'd try and win it. Good to know that they're not normally quite this much! I guess I don't mind paying a little bit too much but now that I know, I will be a little more discerning, thank you ...I can buy more now...lol

Thanks for the offer, Matt. Much appreciated, but I found an old saw I'll practise on, just need to get my son's 18th birthday present finished as well. I'll post a new thread shortly on this one.

Regards Adam

Brilliant, Ian! Many more lessons learnt from this post, thank you

Ah yes, of course, I can understand what you're saying about the full stroke - hadn't thought about it like that. I think I will stick with it's current 'profile' then and leave as-is (whatever that ends up being... haven't received it yet...lol)

As I'm only using the hand saws (and no electrons) I'll be looking out for some more aggressive cut ones now. And from what you've said, I can now see myself looking out for more, and some longer ones. My projects at the moment have been very 'compact' to the point of only needing to use my backsaw to cross-cut, but I can also see myself needing to rip (and cross-cut) some larger material soon (tool cabinet!). Time to start looking more actively!

Thanks again for your very sage advice, Ian.

Regards Adam

A big brother has arrived! (or are saws female? lol)

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This was also my granfather's and it's the same saw in a bigger version. I'm assuming they were both bought at the same time.

Unfortunately this one isn't in as good condition. My uncle (grandfather's son) passed it on to me last night after seeing the restoration of the panel saw. He'd been using it to prune fruit trees and the like! I think it may have been exposed to moisture as there's quite a bit of pitting on the etch face of the plate. If that hadn't happened, this one would be in better condition - the etch is as strong and clear as the day it was new, I'd say. Seems like this one wasn't used anywhere near as much. The teeth... not so good.

Obviously I'm good to go with restoring this one (thank you!) but I'm wondering if a saw with pitting like this is still a good user?

It will be restored regardless, as it has my Pa's initials engraved on it so will be another special saw whether used or not.

I realise I must get to with sharpening the original panel saw, but I need to focus on finishing a two drawer tool organiser for my son's 18th in a few weeks (WIP post under the general forum if you're interested )

Regards
Adam

Originally Posted by Stratman

....... I'm wondering if a saw with pitting like this is still a good user? .......

Adam, it's hard to be sure from a picture, but I'd put that amount of pitting in the "near-negligible" category & I reckon it should make a very good user. As you say, the rest of the blade is in remarkably good condition. It's a seven-pointer, by its stamp, so it could serve you as either a ripsaw or a crosscut. My preference is to have slightly finer teeth (8 or 9 ppi) on a crosscut, but it's a matter of personal taste.

I enlarged the pic as much as I could to try & see how it's been filed, but I can't make out if it's got any fleam or is filed straight across. I think it's straight across, but the amount of rake looks to be too much for a ripsaw. However, getting rake angles out of whack when resharpening is the easiest thing in the world for an inexperienced filer to do. Been there & dunnit several times before I got the hang of things!

I'm not sure just how bad a saw has to be to become useless. Paul gave me a couple of rather sorrowful blades a while back when I was looking for an old tapered blade to cut up for something else. Out of curiosity, I cleaned up this one as much as I could without inducing severe RSI, & stuck a handle on it: 1.jpg 8.jpg To my amazement, it worked quite well. I posted on it here). Compared with the moonscaped blade above, your saw is in near-mint condition!

It served me well for a while, but I did a deal with Paul last year that saw me acquire a blade in much better shape. It was also a fun challenge because it was a D-20, and they have a quite different handle from D-8s, but using the 'shadow' of the cheeks of the original on the blade, & with the help of pics from the Disstonian site, I had a stab at it. Paul later gave me a template from an original D-20 blade & apart from some minor detailing differences (which were deliberate), I was pleased to find I'd got it pretty close in the major dimensions & shape.

The less-pretty saw has found a home, so it's still in play.

Cheers,

Originally Posted by Stratman

A couple of pics from the eBay auction. I think it's 1896-1917 judging by the medallion. Can't see the etch on the plate unfortunately. But it's a 7 TPI (from the stamp at the heel). Probably not the best condition, but it wasn't too much at all (got it for $57 + postage).
Capture.jpgCapture2.PNG

Regards Adam

Adam

I can't see the medallion clearly despite rotating ( the pic: not me) and enlarging. If it is 1896 - 1917 it will have "Philada" at the bottom while the later era will have "Phila" without the "a." It looks like a good deep saw.

The second Canadian Disston will clean up just fine. You have found a good source. I am pretty much clean out of uncles and grandfathers .

Regards
Paul