Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 31 to 45 of 58
  1. #31
    FenceFurniture's Avatar
    FenceFurniture is offline The prize lies beneath - hidden in full view
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    1017m up in Katoomba, NSW
    Posts
    10,649

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Brush View Post
    Brett - just curious, do those grit sizes they quote on the Gemcut page for diamond pastes line up with what we use for ceramic stones? Would you go to a 14000 grit diamond paste on steel after an 8000 grit Shapton, for instance? My 13000 grit Shapton M5 is on its last legs, so looking for a new path to go just beyond 8000 grit sharposity.....
    I think they probably do line up - pretty close anyway. I have been known to do just a couple of strokes on a Shapton 10k (or is it 12k?) after the the 14k paste, but only to remove the slight cloudiness that the paste leaves on steel (so it's just a cosmetic thing - sometimes I don't bother with it).

    However, Rob Streeper seems to have uncovered that there is little point in going past about 5k anyway. His tests (which were pretty thorough and analytical) indicated that the sharper edge didn't last too long at all - contrary to the conventional wisdom of sharper stays sharp for longer. IIRC his platform was that the extra time spent on another stone (or 2) above 5k just wasn't justified because the extra edge sharpness needed redoing too soon - therefore too much time spent on the stones and not on the wood. I can certainly identify with that!
    Regards, FenceFurniture

    COLT DRILLS GROUP BUY
    Jan-Feb 2019 Click to send me an email

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #32
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Nsw
    Age
    64
    Posts
    1,357

    Default

    I think you should choose a small set in your preferred brand/ budget. You usually get 3 to 5 chisels for about the price of two bought individually so have not paid anymore.
    You can get all the advice in the world from others but you are better off experimenting a bit yourself and you will soon find a favourite “go to” chisel amoungst the set when you are using them. Others may prefer to use a different size for the same task.
    Likewise, start off with a quality stone to sharpen them with. You can get lost in the world of sharpening later if it takes your fancy but for now you just want to get an edge on your tool and spend more time with it on timber than on a stone

  4. #33
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    McBride BC Canada
    Posts
    3,543

    Default

    I suggest paying close attention to the quality of the Narex (CZ) chisels.
    I've been using a 2 pairs of 12mm Narex skews in wood carving for some years and could not be more pleased.

    Leonard Lee had numerous images made with a Scanning Electron Microscope. ( pages 32 & 33)
    You can see the results of sharpening and honing for yourself.
    All I learned was that for carving sharp edges that can cope with very soft woods, going beyond 2000 grit is not cost effective.

  5. #34
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Coburg
    Posts
    3

    Default

    This is my maiden post on this forum. I have only just begun the process of researching and purchasing a set of core tools to take up home woodworking for pleasure. Having read with interest the advice offered here regarding beginner set wood chisels, I feel I can now take the first step and just grab a modest set to start with. The next step will be finding a simple (Lplate by name and by nature), relatively straight forward sharpening method/system to prepare and practice basic set up of the chisel. And so the fun begins. Cheers all!

  6. #35
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Darkest NSW
    Posts
    3,197

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    I think they probably do line up - pretty close anyway. I have been known to do just a couple of strokes on a Shapton 10k (or is it 12k?) after the the 14k paste, but only to remove the slight cloudiness that the paste leaves on steel (so it's just a cosmetic thing - sometimes I don't bother with it).

    However, Rob Streeper seems to have uncovered that there is little point in going past about 5k anyway. His tests (which were pretty thorough and analytical) indicated that the sharper edge didn't last too long at all - contrary to the conventional wisdom of sharper stays sharp for longer. IIRC his platform was that the extra time spent on another stone (or 2) above 5k just wasn't justified because the extra edge sharpness needed redoing too soon - therefore too much time spent on the stones and not on the wood. I can certainly identify with that!
    Cheers Brett - I might get some 8000 and 14000 diamond paste just to try. At the moment I'm coming off a hollow grind from a CBN wheel (best invention since sliced bread), so looking for the minimum number of stones/stages just to form the microbevel. At the moment planes get a few strokes on the 1000 (Sigma), which includes cambering off the corners a touch, then 8000 (Shapton M5). Same for chisels, but I do go one extra step for (M2) paring chisels when I'm working with soft timber. I reckon that's the only time it's worth going past 8000, as anything better is wrecked after a few minutes anyway. I'll pick up one of the Veritas steel plates from Carbatec next time I'm up there, assuming they ever have them in stock. Anything to make the job quicker and less messy.

  7. #36
    FenceFurniture's Avatar
    FenceFurniture is offline The prize lies beneath - hidden in full view
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    1017m up in Katoomba, NSW
    Posts
    10,649

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lplate View Post
    This is my maiden post on this forum. I have only just begun the process of researching and purchasing a set of core tools to take up home woodworking for pleasure. Having read with interest the advice offered here regarding beginner set wood chisels, I feel I can now take the first step and just grab a modest set to start with. The next step will be finding a simple (Lplate by name and by nature), relatively straight forward sharpening method/system to prepare and practice basic set up of the chisel. And so the fun begins. Cheers all!
    Welcome Lplate! I think a beginner's set is a good idea for a few reasons: not a big investment, you may get a box with it to keep them in, and later you can use them as "bangers" when you upgrade to really good chisels (bangers are for when there might be nails etc around, or other rough work).

    As Beardy suggested earlier, the absolute cheapest way into sharpening is abrasive paper on a hard flat surface like glass, granite etc. For beginners, I think a honing guide of some description is mandatory (even if you fashion one from timber with a non-adjustable angle of 25-30°). For abrasive paper W&D from your local hardware in 800 and 2000 grit will do a pretty good job. It's the cheapest way in but not the cheapest to maintain (W&D is not cheap at $2-3 per sheet).
    Regards, FenceFurniture

    COLT DRILLS GROUP BUY
    Jan-Feb 2019 Click to send me an email

  8. #37
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Albury
    Posts
    3,019

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sam View Post
    How fine are the lands on these chisels ? Suitable for dovetails ?
    Mine are a bit variable. The 6, 16 & 19mm are around 2mm and the 10, 12 & 25mm are around 1mm. So probably not the best for dovetails unless you individually choose a set.

  9. #38
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Coburg
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Thanks FenceFurniture!
    I think the most overwhelming part of settling on a starting point is filtering the mountains of information available at the click of a button. Does more to confuse than to confirm a sound basis from which to get moving. The point ultimately being to do something with wood. I'm an armchair expert at researching, but hearing a practical recommendation cuts to the heart of the matter. And yes, I fear the new purchase will certainly run the real risk of becoming "Bangers". User error is certain . Thanks again.

  10. #39
    FenceFurniture's Avatar
    FenceFurniture is offline The prize lies beneath - hidden in full view
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    1017m up in Katoomba, NSW
    Posts
    10,649

    Default

    We are all happy to pass on the benefit of our varied experiences - we call it "paying it forward". As you say there is actually too much info available, which is confusing - that's why beginners should ask questions relative to what they are going to do. Often on here you'll see a beginner ask questions without much/enough detail, and we'll all say "Well, what do you want to make? What timbers do you want to use?"

    For example, if you said you had been given a whole pile of Ironbark or some other supertough timber the recommendation would not be for a softer steel chisel (we'd prolly say "put the Ironbark aside and learn on some friendly timber because the IB will break you heart" )
    Regards, FenceFurniture

    COLT DRILLS GROUP BUY
    Jan-Feb 2019 Click to send me an email

  11. #40
    ozhunter's Avatar
    ozhunter is offline Quantum materiae materietur marmota monax si marmo
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Bathurst NSW
    Age
    55
    Posts
    512

    Default

    Good point FF, but newbies should be warned that pine isn't always the best thing to learn on, especially dovetails and the like.
    If you find you have dug yourself a hole, the first thing to do is stop digging.
    I just finished child-proofing our house - but they still get inside.

  12. #41
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    SC, USA
    Posts
    598

    Default

    Hardwoods that fall into the density range of Mahogany are generally the best place to start to learn woodworking... The only downside is price and availability vs construction lumber....

    On chisels.... There is much made of fine side bevels... More often than not - the projects I work on don't require those fine side bevels. The only time I find they are really useful is getting into tight corners to clean out the little lumps and bumps that hang up assembly. I don't really dovetail stuff - so for me that's not really a concern...

    Otherwise - I find I generally prefer normal fat sided firmers. The "fat" sides generally register much better against things and seem to be easier to control.

    so I do keep some chisels around with super fine side bevels for sneaking into corners and such.. But they aren't in the "Regular duty" rotation...

  13. #42
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Coburg
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Thanks for the pointers truckjohn.

  14. #43
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    West Chermside
    Posts
    119

    Default

    I do not know about that particular chisel set but I can recommend the Narex Professional polished chisels as they have an easy to prepare back and have fairly fine sides that are around 1.5mm high as compared to the carpenter chisels they sell that have a 2.5mm high side. I also bought some Mortice chisels and firmer chisels . I find myself using the firmer chisels for morticing rather than the true mortice chisels. It may not be the correct thing to do but they are nicer to use. The steel seems to hold and edge and I have not had and edge breakage as you get with some overly hard chisels. These chisels can be purchased as a 6 pce set in a wood block or individually. Sets are nice but mostly I only use a few chisels of the 3/8, 5/8 & 3/4 size for most work. I hope this is helpful.
    All the best.

  15. #44
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    SC, USA
    Posts
    598

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lplate View Post
    Thanks FenceFurniture!
    I think the most overwhelming part of settling on a starting point is filtering the mountains of information available at the click of a button. Does more to confuse than to confirm a sound basis from which to get moving. The point ultimately being to do something with wood. I'm an armchair expert at researching, but hearing a practical recommendation cuts to the heart of the matter. And yes, I fear the new purchase will certainly run the real risk of becoming "Bangers". User error is certain . Thanks again.
    That is a very real risk. And I have too many that have fallen by the wayside this way. For example - miscellaneous store brand discount/grocery/home store fare (such as the much talked about Aldi chisels) generally don't perform well or hold an edge for long in my hands. Others have reported success with them - so I have to assume they are quite variable...

    I have found the same situation with many Post WWII "alloy steel" hardware store chisels of various miscellaneous brands. And even a few famous maker's alloy steel chisels.. There are a few that are good - but many aren't.

    And you can spend a lot of money trying this or that thing to see if one is good or not.

    Another option is to find a few older pre-WWII "octagon bolster" tang style chisels. These are generally good quality. Often, though, the initial setup is often quite time consuming. Finding them reliably in good condition can also be difficult. For example - I have to mail order old vintage chisels if I want to try them out - this increases costs considerably.

  16. #45
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    melb
    Posts
    1,125

    Default

    ended up going with a couple of chisels from veritas. will get more if i find i need more sizes

Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Full chisel or semi chisel chain ?
    By auscab in forum SMALL TIMBER MILLING
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 15th February 2017, 03:06 PM
  2. Sailing canoe for a beginner builder and beginner sailor
    By keyhavenpotter in forum Michael Storer Wooden Boat Plans
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 31st July 2013, 11:54 AM
  3. My chisel Cabinet- Minus the chisel holders
    By Eldanos of KDM in forum WOODWORK PICS
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 11th July 2011, 09:45 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •