Thread: Beginner hand planes

Just to elaborate on the mitre/picture frame situation see this pic:
https://www.bing.com/images/search?v...x=0&ajaxhist=0

say after glue up there is slight difference in height of the to pieces and you want to even it up. is hand planing a good solution and which would be suitable?

Originally Posted by qwertyu

I cannot seem to find the 140R on google?

No mention of the 140R on the USA or Australian website, but there is this one. Btw, it's not worth purchasing LN from the USA and freighting over - may as well purchase locally.

Hi,
140R is the right hand skew block plane. Lie Nielsen that is.

How right you are Jazzy!

https://www.lie-nielsen.com.au/index...product_id=307

ok so wow, hand planes can also have handedness...

so this sounds like a specialized plane and probably out of my league!

Not for L or R handed people, but for which way the blade skews.

Hi qwertyu,
David Charlesworth shows how to do frames in "Furniture Making Techniques". He calls the process "Planing Around Corners". If I remember rightly he takes the high spots of with the grain and skews the plane around the frame. He uses a Stanley 5 1/2 or a 6.
Regards,
Ross

David's go to plane is a #5-1/2

Originally Posted by qwertyu

ok so wow, hand planes can also have handedness...

definitely.
It's to do with the selecting the plane orientation (L or R) that best matches the grain direction.

so this sounds like a specialized plane and probably out of my league!

it all depends on what you are buying a plane to do.

If you're dimensioning stock by hand, then a #140 is not first choice plane.

If you're smoothing panels and aprons, etc, then again a #140 is not a first chioce

If you're using planes to help with fitting joints, then a #140 is close to a first choice.

Of the planes discussed so far, the #60-1/2R (rebate block plane) would be the plane that is most specialised in its application.


as I outlined in post #8, planes can be used for Stock preparation, smoothing, joint fitting (and making) and embellishment.
On the forums you will access a wealth of knowledge and experience regarding stock preparation and smoothing so I won't say too much here. In terms of your immediate question -- picture frames -- leveling the mitre is a combination of tool and technique.


But your other prime reason for purchasing a plane -- fitting joints -- brings you to the realm of "specialty" planes.
IMO opinion, there no "beginner" aspect at all. To trim a shoulder or tenon with a plane, you need the appropriate tools.
The minimum kit to do this is a Router plane and shoulder plane, with the #140 a highly desirable inclusion.

Originally Posted by qwertyu

the reason why i thought a rabbeting block plane would be a good idea is that i can use it as a regular block plane with the convenience of using it as a shoulder plane too. may not be a good as a proper shoulder plane but its better then nothing. i can always add a shoulder plane if the rabbeting block plane is no good. thoughts on this theory?

thoughts on your theory?

It's crap.

Sorry to be so blunt.
If you need to trim the shoulder of a tenon and you don't have a shoulder plane, then your best tool is a wide very sharp chisel. If the chisel won't take end grain shavings it's not sharp enough.

haha appreciate your input ian.

so for tenon shoulder plane, half -lap router plane. what about the rebate in a picture frame (prior to glue up). also, im not sure how wide router planes are, but what if the half lap is really wide, like this:
https://www.google.com.au/search?q=r...=1529556867124

Paul sellers has a nice trick on youtube for using a router plane for large tenons. I would think It would work for any size half laps just as well.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by qwertyu

haha appreciate your input ian.

so for tenon shoulder plane, half -lap router plane. what about the rebate in a picture frame (prior to glue up). also, im not sure how wide router planes are, but what if the half lap is really wide, like this:
https://www.google.com.au/search?q=r...=1529556867124

starting at about 2:08


focus on the technique not the tool

Lie Nielsen's demonstration from about 2:40