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Thread: Beginner hand planes
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21st June 2018, 11:34 AM #31GOLD MEMBER
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I cannot seem to find the 140R on google?
the reason why i thought a rabbeting block plane would be a good idea is that i can use it as a regular block plane with the convenience of using it as a shoulder plane too. may not be a good as a proper shoulder plane but its better then nothing. i can always add a shoulder plane if the rabbeting block plane is no good. thoughts on this theory?
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21st June 2018, 11:38 AM #32GOLD MEMBER
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Just to elaborate on the mitre/picture frame situation see this pic:
https://www.bing.com/images/search?v...x=0&ajaxhist=0
say after glue up there is slight difference in height of the to pieces and you want to even it up. is hand planing a good solution and which would be suitable?
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21st June 2018, 11:45 AM #33
No mention of the 140R on the USA or Australian website, but there is this one. Btw, it's not worth purchasing LN from the USA and freighting over - may as well purchase locally.
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21st June 2018, 12:44 PM #34SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi,
140R is the right hand skew block plane. Lie Nielsen that is.
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21st June 2018, 12:49 PM #35
How right you are Jazzy!
https://www.lie-nielsen.com.au/index...product_id=307
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21st June 2018, 01:07 PM #36GOLD MEMBER
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ok so wow, hand planes can also have handedness...
so this sounds like a specialized plane and probably out of my league!
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21st June 2018, 01:25 PM #37
Not for L or R handed people, but for which way the blade skews.
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21st June 2018, 02:43 PM #38SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi qwertyu,
David Charlesworth shows how to do frames in "Furniture Making Techniques". He calls the process "Planing Around Corners". If I remember rightly he takes the high spots of with the grain and skews the plane around the frame. He uses a Stanley 5 1/2 or a 6.
Regards,
Ross
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21st June 2018, 02:51 PM #39
David's go to plane is a #5-1/2
regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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21st June 2018, 03:09 PM #40
definitely.
It's to do with the selecting the plane orientation (L or R) that best matches the grain direction.
so this sounds like a specialized plane and probably out of my league!
If you're dimensioning stock by hand, then a #140 is not first choice plane.
If you're smoothing panels and aprons, etc, then again a #140 is not a first chioce
If you're using planes to help with fitting joints, then a #140 is close to a first choice.
Of the planes discussed so far, the #60-1/2R (rebate block plane) would be the plane that is most specialised in its application.
as I outlined in post #8, planes can be used for Stock preparation, smoothing, joint fitting (and making) and embellishment.
On the forums you will access a wealth of knowledge and experience regarding stock preparation and smoothing so I won't say too much here. In terms of your immediate question -- picture frames -- leveling the mitre is a combination of tool and technique.
But your other prime reason for purchasing a plane -- fitting joints -- brings you to the realm of "specialty" planes.
IMO opinion, there no "beginner" aspect at all. To trim a shoulder or tenon with a plane, you need the appropriate tools.
The minimum kit to do this is a Router plane and shoulder plane, with the #140 a highly desirable inclusion.regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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21st June 2018, 03:37 PM #41regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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21st June 2018, 03:56 PM #42GOLD MEMBER
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haha appreciate your input ian.
so for tenon shoulder plane, half -lap router plane. what about the rebate in a picture frame (prior to glue up). also, im not sure how wide router planes are, but what if the half lap is really wide, like this:
https://www.google.com.au/search?q=r...=1529556867124
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21st June 2018, 04:15 PM #43SENIOR MEMBER
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Paul sellers has a nice trick on youtube for using a router plane for large tenons. I would think It would work for any size half laps just as well.
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
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21st June 2018, 04:26 PM #44
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21st June 2018, 04:32 PM #45
Lie Nielsen's demonstration from about 2:40
regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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