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Thread: Block planes - angle and purpose
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22nd August 2013, 01:17 PM #1
Block planes - angle and purpose
I keep thinking that I could do with a block plane, and with some inheritance dollars from my dear old nan heading my way soon I'll be in a position to get one.
But in terms of standard or low angle I'm not sure which is best suited to what tasks...
Mostly I see myself using it for cleaning up box finger joints and dovetail overhangs, which are obviously end grain...so low angle?
I'm leaning towards a Veritas one for the additional chamfer guide and would probably like to use it on the ends of table legs, across the grain as well as along the length...so again, low angle?
As I can only get one plane I'm probably looking for the one most suitable for the end and crossgrain situations mentioned and don't mind if it's a bit more work (in use and in sharpening) to use it for other "surface" tasks, the rare bit of end grain chuting/shooting, and maybe a touch of glue and plug/dowel cleaning.Every time you make a typo, the errorists win.
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22nd August 2013 01:17 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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22nd August 2013, 05:45 PM #2
I'd suggest get a Low Angle jobbie with an extra cutting iron. If you get an O1 iron for low angles - a honed angle of 25 degrees would give you an EP of 37 degrees for end grain work. A second iron (maybe A2 steel) could be honed at a much higher angle to give you an EP of 50, 55 or even 60 degrees to help tackle timber with difficult grain.
My 2d worth.
Cheers, Vann.Gatherer of rustyplanestools...
Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .
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22nd August 2013, 06:24 PM #3
Another blade...who's a clever clogs then eh? Great idea
Hrmm...Carba-tec only have the plane and replacement blades in A2, but O1 is available...OOOOOH!!! and PM-V11!!
I wonder...what could the PM-V11 replace? The A2, O1, or both?
I'm venturing into CT on Saturday for some other little things so I might ask them if the A2 is all that they can get.
I suppose I can get the A2 plane, change the bevel from 25, and get an O1 @25 shipped internationally if need be.Every time you make a typo, the errorists win.
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22nd August 2013, 10:58 PM #4
I forgot about PM-V11 . I don't recall if it will hold an edge at 25 degrees (like A2 often won't) - if it does then it could replace the O1...
You only need a higher micro-bevel, the primary bevel can stay at 25 degrees .
Cheers, Vann.Gatherer of rustyplanestools...
Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .
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22nd August 2013, 11:37 PM #5
You are a clever one aren't ya
Thanks for the tipsEvery time you make a typo, the errorists win.
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23rd August 2013, 01:31 AM #6
Short answer: get the PM-V11. It outclasses A2 by a magnitude of 2, and O1 by at least 4.
While not plane blades, I have reviewed these steels in chisels. It will get you a measure of the differences: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRev...sCompared.html
I shall be posting a review of the LV shooting plane in the near future, and comparing all the steels.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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23rd August 2013, 07:19 AM #7
It's not the size of the answer, it's what's in it that counts
Thanks Derek. It's your real world review of the steels that got me so interested in PM-V11 in the first place. I have to admit to getting more than a little excited when I saw that it was an option for the plane blades.
With a price difference of only $10 (CAD) above O1 and A2 blades, it's a "steel"Every time you make a typo, the errorists win.
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23rd August 2013, 10:00 AM #8
Depending on how much you want to spend grab an NX60 (the DX60 will do the same job but not as sexy.)
https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/...0-block-planes
Guarantee you will keeps it for life!
Only down side once used the shinyness is never the same
Cheers
Steve
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23rd August 2013, 10:15 AM #9
There is a review of the block planes below at this link ....
Back to Tool Reviews
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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23rd August 2013, 10:17 AM #10
Just a thought to throw into the discussion: Have you really asked yourself why you want a block plane? Given the list of jobs you plan to use it for, I'd give more serious thought to the small BU smoother, which will do all you've mentioned, and more. An alternative would be to buy a rear grip for your block plane, so you can use it more comfortably as a small smoother, but the cost of plane plus grip works out to be close to the cost of the little BU smoother (for which you can also have an extra blade, of course), and not as satisfactory, imo.
To me, a block plane is nothing more than a convenient tool for small one-handed jobs, and just about any block plane ever made can be made to work pretty well for that. I've got a few, you stumble on them often enough for next to nothing, but an old 110 I've had for more than 50 years, and a Veritas 'Apron' plane are my everyday users. The little apron plane is always on my bench & is the bees' knees for softening edges and all those little jobs that just need a swipe or two while you hold the work in the other hand. However, for any job that needs a low-angle approach & some fine control, I reach for my LA smoother. It's just a block plane that grew a bit, but still small enough for convenience & large enough for comfortable two-handed use.
Horses for courses, & we all have our own preferences, I just don't look on block planes as tools for 'serious' work - there are more comfortable ways of getting the job done, I reckon...
Cheers,IW
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23rd August 2013, 10:58 AM #11
I did consider a sexy ol' DX/NX, and while I don't doubt they're the superior plane, there's a couple of things about Veritas' "traditional" block that appeal to me for my first serious block plane and work well to my status as a hack:
- the chamfer guide (might fit the DX/NX but LV don't say) - I expect to find this quite useful for a number of things;
- the heavier weight - I'm a caveman and like a bit of heft;
- the optional handles;
With complete respect to IanW's input: I can turn a block into a smoother but not the other way around. I guess I'm just used to the idea of using a block for the tasks I listed originally (with or without the handles) but there have been a few odd times where I've cursed not having a little one hander to take a quick swipe at something and struggled through it with a #4 instead (my only other decent plane - which is still rubbish).
I don't doubt that I could do with a dedicated BU smoother in the future, but for the moment, taking into account my current knowledge, skill and limited funds (gah...I'm ALWAYS whinging about money here...sorry, I don't mean to), the block with a few extras feels to me like it's the most suitable. That doesn't mean that I'm right of course...it just feels that way
Oh and thanks Derek...I've already gone through that review a number of times. I really do like your review work...real world application and comparative testing that doesn't feel like you're trying to sell the primary item under review. I think that's what they call "trust"Every time you make a typo, the errorists win.
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23rd August 2013, 12:04 PM #12SENIOR MEMBER
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Dont forget about the LV apron plane, superb for one handed jobs.
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23rd August 2013, 02:56 PM #13
I fancied the Veritas LABP, but when I went to Carbatec and handled one I found it felt too bulky. That was the week before the DX/NX60 came out. I ordered the DX60 instead, but when it arrived I found that although more nimble, it still felt very heavy for one handed use (maybe I'm just a skinny whimp ). If I was buying all over again I think I'd opt for the no-frills LV Apron plane (I still like my old no-frills Stanley 110).
Completely confused yet?
Cheers, Vann.Gatherer of rustyplanestools...
Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .
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