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Thread: Bowsaw finally

  1. #1
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    Default Bowsaw finally

    Finally got around to finishing a bowsaw i started awhile back.
    Made from WA Karri floorboard offcuts and Spotted gum.
    Pics show pre and post oiling with BLO.

    Last edited by DJ’s Timber; 23rd June 2009 at 09:46 AM.

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  3. #2
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    nice looking saw Shippers, what sort of cord did you use?

  4. #3
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    Well done, that man!!

    soth

  5. #4
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    Really nice work
    Best regards, Luban

  6. #5
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    The cord is twine.
    wrapped around 8 times
    Unfortunately the pics dont do the color justice.
    First tool of significance i have made so am quite chuffed
    Last edited by DJ’s Timber; 23rd June 2009 at 09:46 AM.

  7. #6
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    Hi Shippers,

    Nice work, good choice of timber, I have a soft spot bow saws, and turning saws, what did you use for the blade?

    Regards
    Ray

  8. #7
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    Ray thanks for the compliment.
    I bought 2 blades from mytoolstore.com.au
    1 is a ripping blade which is in the pics and the other is for curved work. I am still on the lookout for a really fine blade though something like a 20 or 24 tpi for dovetailing.
    Also i think i will more than likely make another saw or two so that i dont have to change blades.
    Last edited by DJ’s Timber; 23rd June 2009 at 09:47 AM.

  9. #8
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    Good job - I like the profile, How's it cut?

  10. #9
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    Bob I made a template of the arms fron 6mm ply and used a following bit to get the overall shape, then went to work on the linisher.
    The taper on the upper portion of the arms was done with a block plane.
    The cross brace was shaped with rasp , files then sandpaper as i dont yet have a spokeshave, whic i can see would have made things a hell of alot quicker.
    The pins are 8mm threaded brass rod laminateed into the handles.
    I ground one side flat and then sanded the threads off on the linisher.
    The actual locating pins are slotted machine screws.
    Last edited by DJ’s Timber; 23rd June 2009 at 09:47 AM.

  11. #10
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    Sorry - I meant "How does it cut"? (as opposed to how was it cut?)

  12. #11
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    Ahh sorry.

    Cant tell you yet.
    Have only just finished applying final coat of oil.
    the test will be how well it cuts what it was made for which is the upper backrest of a rocker slowly taking shape made from spotted gum.
    I need to cut both the inside and otside curves.
    Last edited by DJ’s Timber; 23rd June 2009 at 09:48 AM.

  13. #12
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    Cowra - Central West NSW
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    Looks good but it looks heavy.
    Do you think it will be too heavy after a few minutes of lightly cutting some dovetails....
    Steven Thomas


  14. #13
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    Put the saw to a small test today.
    Although its a ripping blade it worked effortlessly crosscutting.
    The other pics are to give perspective to its size.
    The square is 600mm.

    Last edited by DJ’s Timber; 23rd June 2009 at 09:48 AM.

  15. #14
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    Looking good SHIPPERS.

    ISTR that Tage Frid said that he only used rip teeth in a bow saw. He reckoned it cut across the grain just as well as crosscut teeth and quicker. I haven't tried it yet, but every other tip that I found in his Woodwork books has proved to be good (like using a scraper rather than wet and dry between coats of lacquer).
    Cheers

    Jeremy
    If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly

  16. #15
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    Looks good Shippers, a solid saw!

    One thing worth thinking about is a slipper for your tensioning lever. I find it annoying having to push or twist the bit of wood back & forth through the tight cord to clear the bar as you apply tension. Making an insert for the cord would allow it to slide back & forth freely. I saw it on a bowsaw way back, & always intended to fix my own up, but so far haven't gotten the necessary round tuit. Some day.

    Good cording is hard to come by, I'm currently using venetian blind cord (don't ask me what it's actally masde of) which is not bad, but still a bit stretchy. The traditional material is said to be rawhide, but I haven't tried that yet.

    I made my first bowsaw after reading Frid. He was a strong advocate, & certainly a dab hand with them, as I suppose you would be if you'd started with bowsaws & used them as long as he did! However, I could not adapt to using them for straight work like he did, just could not make fine, straight cuts. It was probably just a matter of using the right blades, but instead of experimenting, I soon went back to traditional backsaws for anything other than curved cuts. But if you stick with them, you may end up preferring bowsaws, & it's easier to make a good bowsaw than a traditional backsaw!
    A selection of blades is easier to come by than I first realised, too - there is an infinite variety of tooth styles & pitches & widths in bandsaw blades, a short length of which costs peanuts at a friendly blade service (last time I asked I was given a couple of short 'leftovers' for free... )

    Cheers,
    IW

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