Thread: If challenged to a duel...

Thanks Ian. Maybe without depth perception it would help - in two dimensions the saw is higher at the far end. Being silly there but maybe it could have something to do with perception of looking down at it, I guess if the line of the saw back is closer to the marked line it minimises error if you aren't looking straight down. Anyway, thinking aloud there.

I just started cleaning up my Dad's dovetail\tenon saw (looks like those but not a pistol grip) and I'm using sandpaper with wd40 to get off the rust. The back has become really yellow compared to the colour it was (under the rust) - just thought I'd ask if sandpaper is o.k. while you're here.

Originally Posted by Mnb

..... I just started cleaning up my Dad's dovetail\tenon saw (looks like those but not a pistol grip) and I'm using sandpaper with wd40 to get off the rust. The back has become really yellow compared to the colour it was (under the rust) - just thought I'd ask if sandpaper is o.k. while you're here.....

That's what I use to clean up old saws. Usually start with about 180 W&D (using kerosene for the 'wet' part) if it's really bad, finer grades if the rust isn't too horrible. Do use a sanding block over any etches if you want to preserve them, don't just use folded paper under finger pressure. I usually don't go past 400, unless it cleans up particularly well, in which case I will often finish with some 'Autosol' metal polish.

Depth perception is a complex thing - it's not simply the image that falls on the retina, the potato-powered computer in behind the eyes has a lot to do with it as well.. Until last year, I found it hard to believe that a canted blade could help keep a saw 'level', but I've had good reason to re-think that. About last Oct/Nov, I noticed I was having trouble jointing edges square. I'd hold the plane as I always did, it seemed level & the edge looked fine, but when I put the trysquare on it, the right side was consistently low by several degrees! By consciously planing the edge to what appeared to be 'low' on the left, it would actually come square! It had been a while since I'd last had my eyes checked, so went off to the optometrist & sure enough my prescription had changed, & more in one eye than t'other. 'Aha, sez I, this'll fix it' - so imagine the shock when I rushed to the shed with my new looking gear & discovered it was no better, in fact it might be slightly worse! So I've just had to get used to jointing boards that look low on the left, but straight with the trysquare & if someone tells me they can see something straighter because it's sloped, who am I to argue??

Cheers,

Re the saw - that gives me some confidence. I was using 600 grit wet and dry. I can see the scratches from that so I was reluctant to go coarser but bits at the very front, back and down at the teeth are going to need more. It's difficult with someone else's tools too. They're effectively mine for everyday use but even with dementia Dad remembers his tools. He pops up every now and then and asks after a specific tool. Not just the type and size but the actual tool. Oh and thanks, I hadn't thought of using a block but was wondering about the writing.


It's weird when your senses are wrong isn't it? I wonder if you will always have to plane low to the left. Your brain may re adjust.

Originally Posted by IanW

So that's it -I have used up all my saw plate apart from a few scraper-sized scraps, and I am now happily retired from saw making. I've learnt never to say 'never', but I can assure you all it will be a long time before I make any more saws, if ever!

Cheers,

Now, you can start making guitars! It seems like a logical next step. Lots of the tools will translate over, and you might even get the chance to use a spokeshave or drawknife to do coarse work.

Originally Posted by D.W.

Now, you can start making guitars! It seems like a logical next step. Lots of the tools will translate over, and you might even get the chance to use a spokeshave or drawknife to do coarse work.

Funny you should suggest that, D.W., making instruments has long been an ambition, just never had the time to devote to it. I might have a go some time in the next few years, but I think I'd start with a ukulele rather than a guitar, not so much material wasted if it goes pear-shaped!

Cheers,

I can see how a canted saw help you cut to the correct depth. If you keep the spine level you will hit your scribed mark on the front which you can see and are less likely to go too deep at the back where you can’t see. A little touch up stroke at the end to level the cut out. Just an idea to try and justify a canted blade.

Originally Posted by DSEL74

..... Just an idea to try and justify a canted blade......

Dale, that's certainly as good a suggestion as any I've heard. I still think it's purely an appearance thing, but for those who like reasons, your idea is the best so far...

Cheers,

Originally Posted by IanW

Dale, that's certainly as good a suggestion as any I've heard. I still think it's purely an appearance thing, but for those who like reasons, your idea is the best so far...

Cheers,

You could just straighten your glasses .

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by IanW

I might have a go some time in the next few years, but I think I'd start with a ukulele rather than a guitar, not so much material wasted if it goes pear-shaped!

I think you’ll find that pear-shaped ukuleles are actually quite common

Originally Posted by IanW

Funny you should suggest that, D.W., making instruments has long been an ambition, just never had the time to devote to it. I might have a go some time in the next few years, but I think I'd start with a ukulele rather than a guitar, not so much material wasted if it goes pear-shaped!

Cheers,

It's a very easy transition from tools. Maybe not to make a cosmetically perfect guitar (but you'll be surprised how well you can do compared to people trying to learn to build guitars without any woodworking background) - everything has a learning curve, but all of the sculpting and joint fitting and fret work is pretty quick compared to making something like an infill plane.