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  1. #1
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    Default Christmas planes - Picture heavy- Luban and HNT

    I was lucky enough to receive a 112 Luban scraper plane, a HNT Gordon 1-1/4" Shoulder plane and a A55 trying plane for Christmas (self bought prezzies).

    Both of the HNT planes were from the 'bargain' section which I keep an eye on regularly as it is only ever some small cosmetic issue that lands it in the '2nds pile' and HNT is quite strict in terms of what constitutes a blemish so it's a good spot to get a deal.

    The 112 I purchased as a dedicated finishing scraper plane. I've used my HNT smoother as a scraper by rotating the blade to give me a 90 degree cutting angle and this works too but generally I like to keep seperate planes for seperate tasks. A few photos of the 112 below. The only downside I see with this Luban 112 is the plane thickness. But if it really ends up being an issue i'll just purchase the Lie Nielsen or Veritas 112 replacement blade as it is thicker and probably slightly better quality than this blade. Straight out of the box I just cleaned up the sole of the plane, Cleaned the blade off, turned a hook on the blade, inserted it and started scraping. In this piece of tasmanian blackwood it took a little bit of experimenting to find the scraping angle that worked best but once I had found the angle it worked quite well. This plane did an excellent job.
    A few photos of the plane itself.
    20170106_154126.jpg20170106_152115.jpg20170106_152120.jpg20170106_152127.jpg20170106_152156.jpg20170106_152218.jpg20170106_153255.jpg

    Before and after shots of this tough blackwood I was working with. First three photos are prior to scraping. 4th and 5th are post scraping and the last few are with a light touch of danish oil on it. The lighting where I work isn't great so appologies in advanced if some of these photos are a bit average.
    20170106_153013.jpg20170106_153016.jpg20170106_153018.jpg20170106_153922.jpg20170106_153918.jpg20170106_154107.jpg20170106_154110.jpg20170106_154114.jpg
    After re-sharpening the trying plane blade on my 8000 shapton (just to touch it up and added slightly more camber) I ran it over a piece of blackwood. This plane is beautiful. HNT make great gear.
    20170106_154630.jpg20170106_154637.jpg
    First two pictures are prior to planing. Second two are after planing.
    20170106_154814.jpg20170106_154818.jpg20170106_155433.jpg20170106_155439.jpg
    I then swapped the blade around to use it in scraping mode.
    20170106_155748.jpg
    These two photos shows the surface with a little bit of danish oil.
    20170106_173310.jpg20170106_173307.jpg
    The last image shows the shavings while using the plane in scraping mode.Very happy indeed.
    20170106_155735.jpg

    Have yet to use the Shoulder plane but i've got to make some breadboard ends on a dining table top so i'm sure it'll get some use soon.

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  3. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by hurcorh View Post
    ..... The only downside I see with this Luban 112 is the plane thickness. But if it really ends up being an issue i'll just purchase the Lie Nielsen or Veritas 112 replacement blade as it is thicker and probably slightly better quality than this blade.......
    Hi hurcorh, I take it 'plane' was a typo & you meant 'blade' in the first sentence?

    Hard to tell from a pic, but that blade actually looks a bit thicker than my Veritas 112's blade, but in any case it doesn't look any thinner. Remember that in use, the bow you add to the blade effectively increases its stiffness. My Veritas will take near full-width shavings from Ironbark and similar woods without a hint of chatter, so long as the blade is properly prepared. Bowing also induces a camber to the cutting edge, which prevents corner tracks in the planed surface. In normal use you should not get any chatter. If you do, you either have too much blade exposure, too much bow, or a dull blade. I sometimes push it when I'm being impatient & don't want to stop & sharpen, & end up with all three. It's never a good idea, of course, as the quality of the surface deteriorates rapidly when the blade gets dull & you end up with a dull, 'torn' surface that defeats the whole exercise. Eventually, if I live long enough, I'll realise it just costs me more time in the end, & I'll stop & sharpen sooner...

    I've only used the 'thin' blade with my scraper plane, so can't compare it with the thicker blade. Some day I'll try one out of curiosity, but I'm really quite satisfied with the way the 'thin' blade performs. As far as I'm aware, the thick blade is a 'modern' twist & the Stanley original didn't have that option. (The toothing blades available as an option were probably thicker - can anyone confirm this?). The thick A2 blades are presumably harder (the original LV blurb said not to try to burr them) and should last a little longer between sharpenings, however, since you can't bow them, you lose the automatic camber feature. The only other advantage of the thick blade that I can see (& I welcome any further enlightenment from a regular thick-blade user), is that they might allow a heavier chatter-free cut. This could be handy if you work with a lot of recalcitrant woods, but you have your luverly HNT, now, & that should handle the heavy work on the gnarly stuff pretty well, so your scraper should serve mainly as a fine-tuning tool....

    Cheers,
    IW

  4. #3
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    Thanks a lot Ian for the information. Much appreciated. I am unsure if this luban has the same feature as being able to bow the blade as there is only the angle adjustment and the blade tightening knob. Unless the blade tightening knob also bows the blade the tighter I wind it in. Maybe I'm getting mistaken by the Lie Nielsen blade. I'll see how this blade holds up. So far I'm pretty happy with it though. Cheers.

  5. #4
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    My understanding is that the brass knob, which I think you're calling the blade tightening knob, is what bows the scraper. This bowing is kind of like the depth of cut adjustment. More bow means more aggressive.

  6. #5
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    Thanks. Will have a tinker around and see if I can use my calipers to see if that knob does increase the bow or not.

  7. #6
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    I love my HNT A55 trying plane, bought mine through http://www.thewoodworks.com.au last year; I've dropped the wedge on the floor a few times while flipping the plane over to check blade protrusion, whoops.

    What is the benefit of a 112 over a card scraper?

  8. #7
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    For me personally, the main reasons I got it were for larger projects with curly grain, figure, etc where I am doing a large flat surface and want to finish smoothly. Card scraping large surfaces gets tiring after a while and working on one spot for too long could result in a small area that has been overworked resulting in it being slightly lower than the rest. Being that it is a large soled plane compared to the card scraper (which I do use regularly) i'll hopefully find it harder to 'over scrape' one section resulting in a small but noticeable indentation. That's the plane anyway!

    Plus, can never have enough hand planes

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by hurcorh View Post
    I am unsure if this luban has the same feature as being able to bow the blade as there is only the angle adjustment and the blade tightening knob. Unless the blade tightening knob also bows the blade the tighter I wind it in.
    Well I get an A for enthusiasm, but a Fail for observation.

    I just looked at the thumbnails of your scraper plane & because it looked so much like mine, assumed it had the same blade carriage & bowing mechanism. This is what the Veritas looks like: 112 Bowing screw.jpg
    The arrow points to the screw that bows the blade. Note that the blade 'bed' is flat on mine. Now look at the blade carriage on yours: 20170106_152120.jpg

    Unless I'm very mistaken, the blade bed on your plane is curved, so yes indeed, as you tighten the retaining cap, it should bow the blade. After I'd posted this morning, I checked "Blood & Gore" & saw that neither the Stanley 112, nor its predecessor, the #12 has a 'bowing screw'. Ditto the Lie-Nielsen. In my view, this might make the Veritas superior to all the others when using the thin blade. You can keep adding bow a part-turn at at time as the blade dulls & keep it cutting. I guess the flip-side is that you really dull it, if you persist for too long, and give yourself a bit more work re-sharpening, but I still think it's a big plus. Veritas must've patented the bowing screw, or I'm sure the copycats would have seized on it....

    Cheers,
    IW

  10. #9
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    I had contemplated getting the veritas over the Luban but wasn't sure that feature was worth the extra coin.

    "The plane comes with a 0.055” high carbon steel blade suited to this technique as well as an optional 3.2mm (1/8”) thick A2 steel blade that suits those who prefer to use an uncambered blade. Both blade styles are 73mm (2-7/8”) wide and are hardened to Rc48-51."

    Taken from the Carba-tec website. So you're right Ian, your blade is thinner and is specifically for use with the veritas plane with the bow feature.

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by NathanaelBC View Post
    .....What is the benefit of a 112 over a card scraper?
    Nat, I assume from that question that you haven't done a lot of heavy-duty scraping with card scrapers?

    While card scrapers would rank up there with the more useful tools in my shed, they aren't the tool to reach for when a large area needs serious scraping. At least not for sissies like me! For starters, your thumbs get very fatigued from bowing the blade, and secondly, the darn thing gets red hot after about 30 seconds. I can't say I enjoy the smell of cooking flesh when it's my own....

    Scraping planes solve both those issues very nicely, and as for any plane, the larger the sole size you choose, the easier it is to maintain flatness of your surface.

    Cheers,
    IW

  12. #11
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    Yeah fair reasons, I gave up hand-holding my card scrapers pretty quickly and use one of those Veritas card holders which work nicely for my purposes. But I can see the appeal of a scraper plane.

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by hurcorh View Post
    I had contemplated getting the veritas over the Luban but wasn't sure that feature was worth the extra coin.....
    Fair enough, and since I've not used any of the other 112 clones or the original, I can't say if it's worth ~$100, which is the difference between the Luban & (Carbatec's price) the Veritas. If your plane does add some bow as you tighten the lever-cap (which would explain why it comes with a thinner blade), then you've got it all - for 2/3rds the price.

    I've got a Qiangsheng 62 clone (the low-angle jack) and it's a pretty good machine, so I would have good expectations of your scraper...
    Cheers,
    IW

  14. #13
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    Re-ground / reshaped a thick meat cleaver blade and it works fine for hand held scraping.
    Later on purchased the Veritas scraping plane, card holder and burnishing tool.
    I'm not 100% sure but I think the toothed blade is used to prepare surface for veneer glue up.
    I enjoy card scraping hand held for some projects. I like a hand made appearance sometimes.

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodhog View Post
    I'm not 100% sure but I think the toothed blade is used to prepare surface for veneer glue up.
    That's the only productive use for it. LN got the issue confused for everyone (or LV?) when they introduced the LA planes with a toothed blade. All of the old planes I've seen with a toothed blade have a different tooth design (tiny grooves to scuff rather than plane stock) and the blade is almost vertical.

  16. #15
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    My favorite scraping tool brand. The quality and features are excellent. I'll be getting the other 2 blades soon.
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