Thread: Cutting gauges

They're both beautiful pieces Derek. I particularly like the contrast between the curly myrtle and jarrah.

Lovely work as usual Derek.
Those look like a very comfortable fit in the hand.

SG

Very nice indeed.

Nicely done, Derek.
A couple of questions:
1. How have you 'attached' the locking screw to the brass pressure-plate so that it doesn't move with the shaft, (or fall out when the shaft was removed for the pic)?

2. I'm guessing your choice of wooden wear-strips rather than the 'traditional' (& more durable) brass was for aesthetic reasons?

And a question/comment:
Do you not find the long projection of the shaft past the cutter on your gauges to be a bit of a pest sometimes by limiting how close you can mark/cut to a shoulder? I know it's not often that one needs to do this, but it happens to me often enough that I have been thinking about ways to get the cutter or pin closer to the end, next time I make a gauge or two. Now I've seen your original Kinshiro, the answer is blindingly obvious! It never occured to me to have the shaft fixed to the fence & the cutter on the end of a moving bar like that - clever!

Cheers,

Hi Derek,

What they said. Very nice indeed.

I do like the extra registration that the Japanese versions provide, and the shape I find easy to hold as well.

Cheers
Pops

Where do you source your locking screws from?

A couple of questions:

1. How have you 'attached' the locking screw to the brass pressure-plate so that it doesn't move with the shaft, (or fall out when the shaft was removed for the pic)?

The reason I chose the screw/brass plate was that it locks well and the mechanism is easy to use one-handed.

This is the mechanism I made ..



It is simply a brass plate that I drilled for a screw. The hole on the plate is chamfered, and the screw head fits fairly flush. Excess is filed off. The screw is left as a stub.

The stub fits into the hole for the adjusting screw (so it is now captive), and the adjusting screw presses down on the stub for pressure.

2. I'm guessing your choice of wooden wear-strips rather than the 'traditional' (& more durable) brass was for aesthetic reasons?

Yep. Attaching brass would have been easier, but I was in the mood for something different. The Jarrah wears trip should last, although it was a practice gauge (in build quality it is not different), while the Ebony wear strip is hard and durable.

And a question/comment:
Do you not find the long projection of the shaft past the cutter on your gauges to be a bit of a pest sometimes by limiting how close you can mark/cut to a shoulder? I know it's not often that one needs to do this, but it happens to me often enough that I have been thinking about ways to get the cutter or pin closer to the end, next time I make a gauge or two. Now I've seen your original Kinshiro, the answer is blindingly obvious! It never occured to me to have the shaft fixed to the fence & the cutter on the end of a moving bar like that - clever!

Exactly!

I had wanted to place the cutter at the end of the beam for this very reason. The only way one can do this properly is to use a bent blade, ala Kinshiro. I was contemplating making my own (still thinking about this).

One previous effort of mine was this ..





That is still only close-to-the-end.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by NZStu

Where do you source your locking screws from?

I got these from Carba-tec. They are available from Lee Valley as well.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by Scribbly Gum

Lovely work as usual Derek.
Those look like a very comfortable fit in the hand.

SG

Indeed.

My ideal gauges include ...

Firstly, the knob needs to be on the top, where it is easy to adjust while holding the gauge in one hand (and the other left for the work piece). It also needs to be a round knob, not a thumbscrew (which may be easier to grip but is not as easy to adjust with fingertips). Look for this feature in the wooden gauges on sale.

Secondly, the hand needs to wrap around the front so that the grip is firm as you pull the gauge backwards/towards yourself. This requires that the profile of the fence is lower under the heel of the hand, and that there is a grip area for the fingers.

I think the Kinshiro rocks. It incorporates all these features.





The Kinshiro is, however, a mortice gauge. It is possible to use it with a single cutter. Fortunately, the bevel faces the correct direction.

The gauges I built are set with single cutters.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Hey Derek,
Brilliant gauges I really like them!
Have you thought about selling any? I'd definetely be interested.

Andy

Hi Andy

Thanks for the compliment. However I am not going to make them for sale. If anyone wants help to make one for themselves, I am happy to provide help.

Here is a clue ..



Regards from Perth

Derek

Beautiful. The blackwood and ebony strip I'd like. If you change your mind on selling I'd like to buy one.

It occurred to me that getting a right angled blade like on the original Kinshiro that sits right at the end of the arm (if that is your want) would be a situation where an old hex key would make a good blade as it already has a bend in it and is hard steel. Just have to embed it in the timber of the arm somehow and hold it rigid with a screw or epoxy.

Very nice Derek. Is there a nut or threaded insert for the brass adjusting screw embedded in the timber?

Hi Jake. Thanks for the compliment. Much appreciated.

And PM .. I have thought of a hex key. However they are not always hard enough or able to be heat treated. The adjuster is threaded directed into the timber, which I tapped for the purpose. In situations like this, the wood offers some resistance while in a steel insert it can work loose.

Regards from Perth

Derek