Thread: Diamond Lapping Film

Originally Posted by derekcohen

I started this thread, and one of the first sentences reads, "I helped evaluate these films, working through a wad of different grits to narrow down the micron progression, and trying to get a fix on their longevity". I would say that this nails my flag to the mast. Ern's comment was unnecessary.

<SNIP>

Derek

The question went to what if any pecuniary benefit you received. Yes, you evaluated them for LV and made that clear. But that was all.

In the Product Review section of the forum, posters are asked to declare any financial interest in a product or other connection with the maker or retailer. This is standard practice in a variety of fields (inc. scientific and medical research) so that readers are alerted to the possibility of any conflict of interest. In my view, it's good practice whenever we make judgements and esp. recommendations about a product to do the same.

Ern, remember there's only so much skin you can rub off.
Cheers,
Jim

Lol.

Hi Jim

No problem. LV's website calls it "PSA-backed polyester sheets".

It is tough as old boots when you attempt to twist, bend, or tear it. Its stiffness will take you by surprise. It has an adhesive backing so it sticks like glue. However, it is still a thin film and vulnerable to sharp edges, such as the edge of a blade or a thick wire/burr. I make sure that these are first removed on a 600 or 1200 diamond stone (I no longer know what it is I have had it so long!).

Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by derekcohen

Dave, what I plan to try next, once I have a piece of film that is too worn to cut decently, is to add some diamond paste of the same grit level. Will this recharge the mylar?

Now that's a good idea! (why don't I think of things like this )

May be replacing one of my sets soon. If I do, and you still want them, I'll drop the old ones off to you.

Cheers

Dave W.

Originally Posted by rsser

FWIW the 3M microfinishing abrasives also use a film substrate which sounds similar and is also on the fragile side. The only time I've taken a hollow ground chisel bevel with microbevels already formed on the toe and heel to it for honing, at a skewed angle for stability, a corner scratched a length of it off the plate.

Here too bubbles can be a problem and it's worth first trying to fix the film with water; the bubbles can be smoothed out. May be worth trying with the diamond film.

There's a set of diamond films in the shed waiting for a trial. Looking forward to an orgasm ;-) (see OP).

(No connection with Lee Valley other than as a satisfied customer).

Hi Ern,

I was very careful to slowly lay the film down. Used my finger to slowly roll it onto the plate glass. No problems with bubbles. As Derek notes, the film is very stable against stretching, and in fact I doubt I could deform it to any degree that would cause problems.

I've also got the 3m film and had good results with them. Just didn't cut fast enough, nor long enough, for the M2 chisels and plane blades.

Cheers all.
Dave W.

Originally Posted by Old gunnie

Now that's a good idea! (why don't I think of things like this )

May be replacing one of my sets soon. If I do, and you still want them, I'll drop the old ones off to you.

Hi Dave

The diamond paste needs to be done with the film attached. Pulling it off will deform it. I will try it out on some old film that I have had just waiting for the paste to arrive.

But don't let this stop you from popping around any weekend.

Kind regards

Derek

I found this technique on the Popular Woodworking blog:

“Spray the glass with a soapy water solution, place the adhesive side of the film on top of the water, and cover that with a piece of waxed paper. Use a plastic squeegee, working from the center, to squeeze all of the water out. You will be able to squeegee out any bubbles. They use the same procedure to put vinyl stripes/graphics on cars.”

Now I'm just wondering what effect the water will have on the adhesive. There MUST be some residual moisture left behind between the adhesive and the substrate. Wouldn't that interfere with the adhesion of the glue?? The squeegee would have to be a very stiff one, or perhaps better still would be a veneer roller.

Any thoughts?

It dries out Brett. No problems.

I've used this approach to apply clear protective film to a motorbike fairing.

The surface and the polyester substrate have to be clean though.

Ok, thanks Ern.

I had wondered myself about the effect on the adhesive. Tried it on some other stuff without problems, and the 3M PSA stuff but not with this for some reason. Regardless, I was careful and it sticks really well as has been pointed out. No problems with bubbles or it coming unstuck, just that the 'lubricant' starts to work itself under the edge a little only by half a mm or so, but I could feel the blades riding into and over it, so trimmed it off. Been using them over a couple of months now and still going strong. Not really much used though . , but I have managed to mirror polish some of my chisels on these. Really came up beautifully, BUT!!! couple of single line scratches that I cannot seem to get out . Wonder if it's caught grains like someones mentioned?

And one of these months I'll get up to see how Derek is going with his. .

Cheers All
Dave W.