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  1. #1
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    Default Disston Dovetail Saw.

    Disston #70 Dovetail Saw. Online Reference of Disston Saws -- Dovetail Saws

    Part of my hand tool collection. It was in rather poor condition when I purchased it. The handle shape matches that listed within Disston's 1918 Catalogue; much more refined in appearance than that shown within their later 1932 Catalogue. The 17 ppi saw teeth look to be in original condition and still remain very sharp. Saw plate length is 8"; 0.018 saw plate gauge; the 1 1/12" depth of usable plate exactly its listed specs; and the original manufacturers etch remains clearly visible. The handle is all original, apart from having a new stained finish applied. What remained of the original brass plating over the surface of the hard back was later lost during this saws refurbishment. Photo's taken today.

    Stewie;




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  3. #2
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    She's a beauty! What finish did you use?
    "Life would be infinitely happier if we could only be born at the age of eighty and gradually approach eighteen."

    Mark Twain

  4. #3
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    All spruced up & ready for another 100 years, Stewie. The saw, that is.....

    Cheers,
    IW

  5. #4
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    A number of years ago I made this set of wooden spoke shaves. A totally different type of finishing technique was used compared to that seen on the #70 backsaw.

    Stewie;


  6. #5
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    Blacktown NSW
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    Default

    A beautiful restoration, well done sir!
    I too am interested in the finish of the handle, products used and how you got that nice finish.

    Thanks for sharing

    Alan

  7. #6
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    Default

    Wow stewie
    Ye Ye Ye you did another great saw
    Yes it is nice. Very nice
    But those spoke shaves look amazing
    Would love to hear(everything)
    About them
    Cheers Matt

  8. #7
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    Email from Erik von Sneidern; Disstonian Institute.com -- Online Reference of Disston Saws

    Stewie,

    That looks better than any other No. 70 I've seen. Nice work.

  9. #8
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    Feb 2012
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    Adelaide
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    Default sister saw to the no 70, the no 68 gents saw

    thought i would try and do a pic, can not remember if i have so before, its been so long.

    not very good at it, cripes (nice job and saw stewie) you guys make a saw look great in photo.

    my saw looks much better in person although i admit now that i took the pic it shows saw dust and finger prints all over, what a mess!. thought i would give it a little wipe of polish to show the brass in comparison to Stewie's (brass coated steel on these distons), i generally don't bother to touch the brass backs on the saws, not because of any principles per say, i just don't bother (which might read as lazy lol) as it doesn't affect the saw when i use it. so on many of back saws you can not always tell they have brass because its so dark.

    on the odd saw when i pull it apart, to refurbish loose nuts or reset blade tension it may get a clean but inevitably the brass goes dark again after a while. i try and keep the blade waxed and or oiled or wrapped, or enclosed in something to prevent rust, the back not so much of importance (to me) except to clamp the edge to keep tension on the blade, doesn't matter so much further into the back if its not tight. thats one thing i like about older back saws (though i have never touched this one in that way) is you can dismantle them, tension the blade if ness, put the back on and only needs a tight grip at the edge of the back. glueing in, whilst i fully understand the reasons people do it kinda make them a disposable saw imo and i often wonder if tension is as good on the blade (probably is, just a thought), your views may vary, but each to our own. if i didn't already have saws i might consider a disposable saw because if price and how much i get out if it suits then ok, but if i have the choice...then a saw that dismantles with ease is my preference. but i hope do not i rub anyone up the wrong way with my perspective.

    the specs say it should have 1 1/2 inch under plate but this has 1 5/8 (so 1/8 more). 17-18 tip, the handle you can see is how it came in contrast to Stewie #70 upgrade. the etch i think is showing in the pic, pure luck on my part. its clear on the saw but the pic diminishes it a little. anyways first try at putting a pic afaik and should have done better to saw and method of picture taking

    cheers
    chippy
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #9
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    Stewie

    What an exquisite little saw. Understated elegance if ever there was. Nice restoration.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by planemaker View Post
    A number of years ago I made this set of wooden spoke shaves. A totally different type of finishing technique was used compared to that seen on the #70 backsaw.

    Stewie;

    What sort of timber are the spoke shaves? Ebony? They look beautiful!

    Did you make the blades as well?

    drum maker

  12. #11
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    Bunya. The spoke shave bodies are made from European Beech; some of the blades are Nos; the depth adjuster parts were purchased 2nd hand; the brass face and bottom wear plates were made from new stock material.

    Stewie;

  13. #12
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    Stewie

    Did you ebonise the Beech?

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  14. #13
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    Paul

    how do you ebonise wood? Can you do it to any wood?

    Cheers
    Stewart

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushmiller View Post
    Stewie

    Did you ebonise the Beech?

    Regards
    Paul
    Hi Paul. If your referring to the use of an iron oxide solution to ebonise the appearance of the timber; that process was not used on these spoke shaves.

    The attached photo is of a Coffin Shaped Toothing Plane I made a few years ago, that's been treated with an iron oxide solution.

    Stewie;


  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by bunya pine View Post
    ...how do you ebonise wood? Can you do it to any wood?
    Practically any, Stewart, but some woods respond much better than others, and obviously, a fine-grained wood gives the most convincing results. Do google on it & you'll see there are numerous methods for 'ebonising'...

    Cheers,
    IW

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