Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 21 of 21
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Wisconsin, USA
    Posts
    151

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pmcgee View Post
    The handle looks very much a #7 ripsaw ... with the beech and the extra curved space inside to grip.
    (Like this example from the disstonian website ... )


    I suspect it looked as above, and someone lost a bolt and only had a medallion to replace it.
    Multi-medallions wouldn't seem to tie in with a beech handle, which was after all at the economy end of the scale.
    That sounds right, based upon the facts that the inside of the bottom medallion opening is kind of rough -- not smooth like the other opening. Also, the saw plate hole that matches up with that bottom medallion is slightly larger than the other 3 -- kind of "sloppy" looking.

    Looks like my rare double-medallion million-dollar Disston is just a plain old single medallion

    Thanks for all the help,
    Dave

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Armadale Perth WA
    Age
    55
    Posts
    4,524

    Default

    Looking closer at the pictures - is that crack only on the "driver's side" of the handle?

    Thinking pragmatically, if not a second medallion maybe someone figured a washer would provide a wider footprint for the sawbolt for holding everything together.

    How does the blade sound/feel?

    Cheers,
    Paul (#2)

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Wisconsin, USA
    Posts
    151

    Default

    Yes, the crack is only on that side, but I may have done that. I know that I did break off a piece of a handle while trying to remove an old nail repair (a few words were said at that point -- lucky I was in the basement away from the kids, and wife) -- can't remember if that was the handle or if it was a different one -- too many saws and too many years. Apparently, "back in the day" people didn't have reliable wood glue because I find so many nail and screw repairs on broken/cracked handles.

    As for the blade, it sounds and feels great. There is slight curvature about halfway down, but I'm going to try to get that out. No kinks or broken teeth, though, just a broken nib.

    Regards,
    Dave

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    San Antonio, Texas, USA
    Posts
    3,070

    Default

    The blade needs to be re-tensioned. Don't try to flex it back by hand, you'll only make it worse. If you send me a PM with a real email address I'll send you a procedure I've written for re-tensioning.
    Innovations are those useful things that, by dint of chance, manage to survive the stupidity and destructive tendencies inherent in human nature.

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Wisconsin, USA
    Posts
    151

    Default

    Rob,

    I don't try flexing it back by hand. I use a saw hammer and anvil. If your procedure is different than this, I would be interested in hearing it.

    Thanks,
    Dave

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    San Antonio, Texas, USA
    Posts
    3,070

    Default

    Dave,

    You can look here Saw blade tensioning for panel and hand saws and see essentially the same procedure. Anvil, hammer and patience.

    Regards,
    Rob
    Innovations are those useful things that, by dint of chance, manage to survive the stupidity and destructive tendencies inherent in human nature.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Similar Threads

  1. Stamped Saw with Steel Handle Plate, nib, & Copper Rivets
    By schuld66 in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 12th September 2015, 10:25 AM
  2. Double Sided Diamond Plate
    By Kidbee in forum SHARPENING
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 19th June 2013, 11:14 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •