Flattening a cupped/crowned board

[jmk89]

If you are going to flatten a board which is cupped on one side and crowned on the other by hand (traversing using a foreplane/scrub plane), which side do you start with, the cupped side or the crowned one? Why?

[ch!ppy]

If you are going to flatten a board which is cupped on one side and crowned on the other by hand (traversing using a foreplane/scrub plane), which side do you start with, the cupped side or the crowned one? Why?

start with the cupped side up, you get some registration on both edges that way. depending on the width of the board a foreplane (nice to hear someone mention a forplane nowadays, the fad is scrub plane but foreplane is better for many jobs) is the better choice because of course its longer, a jack is slimmer though so its easier to push and a (typical) scrub is very easy to push around, the downside with them is that lack of length in many application of resizing timber..its not impossible from either side though if you have too


cheers
chippy

[pmcgee]

Chippy - with the cupped side up, would you need to support/shim it underneath to stop it rocking?

My unqualified thought would be to try it cup downwards ... see if it rocks ... mark those areas and take them down a bit ... repeat until it sits cup downwards without rocking ... then you have the crown to deal with ... which is its own problem because there might not be a definite "level" to work down to.

Not exactly your question, but I saw this a long time ago (it seems) via the FWW website.
A good video I think.

Cheers,
Paul

[pmcgee]

And also from Guiliano who is on this forum and made the dovetail plane ...

[mic-d]

I've always done it with cup down and hog off the central section until the you start to reach the edges. So long as you leave the very edges, you can't take more than you need to in the middle. Why? I find it more stable

[ch!ppy]

i got called away as i as was writing, but yeah, start with cup up to make it sit flat and then flip. really it doesnt matter which side but cup up is quicker to get to the point it sits flat (no wobble on bench, from twist), just takes few moments, shim a bit or dont worry about the unstable bit for the few moments

[jmk89]

Thanks. I think I'll try cup up with wedges first.

[rod1949]

I'd run it across the buzzer cupped side down and then through the thicknesser to remove the crown ...easy

[msiemsen]

I'd run it across the buzzer cupped side down and then through the thicknesser to remove the crown ...easy

That does work, but wrong forum!
Cupped side up is probably easiest. Plane the ends straight across so you can check for wind, put the ends in wind, plane the edges straight to match the ends, hog out the middle, flip and repeat.

[snafuspyramid]

Interesting about the fore plane. I gather that a fore plane is about the length of a Stanley no.6 but made of wood. You can't really use a Stanley 6 as a fore plane (for traversing) because it is too heavy.

I think that, using metal planes, a jack plane is a better choice than a scrub. They do the same thing, but the jack requires less skill, as the sole is longer.

I suspect that a scrub is really only necessary if you're salvaging rough beams or something. Doesn't make sense on dressed timber, to me.

[ch!ppy]

Interesting about the fore plane. I gather that a fore plane is about the length of a Stanley no.6 but made of wood. You can't really use a Stanley 6 as a fore plane (for traversing) because it is too heavy.

I think that, using metal planes, a jack plane is a better choice than a scrub. They do the same thing, but the jack requires less skill, as the sole is longer.

I suspect that a scrub is really only necessary if you're salvaging rough beams or something. Doesn't make sense on dressed timber, to me.

your about on the money the way i see it (ideally a wooden foreplane, fantastic for the job), except a 6 metal plane can be used but you need young strong arms and back, not that i'll admit it, but now that i'm getting older i often wish they would make the #6 in in #5 width but i havnt quite let it go, the woodie 6 is lovely though, otherwise i swallow the medicine and get to work pushing the wide metal plane

[pmcgee]

Here's some #6 length planes ... 46cm for the #6 ... 43cm for the woodies ... 39cm for the transitional planes (I don't have any longer ones)

The razee plane has no makers mark, but a marples iron and cap. I guess it was designed for the 'reverse claw-hand' style of holding.

I was expecting pretty open mouths ... but even if the frog was moved back the #6 wouldn't be all that open, and the oldest woodie has been re-mouthed to a relatively close mouth.

Everyone forgets the transitional planes I was shocked to hear that at one of the tool-loony get-togethers in the US they burn a transitional plane at the end of the weekend. How rude! I know some of them can be majorly beat up, but really. That's discrimination right there.

BTW - I have a French jointer - it is longer than a #8 at 65cm, but only 5mm wider than a #5 ... so they might have something for you Chippy.

Cheers,
Paul

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[snafuspyramid]

So I suppose we can say that there exist at least three different planes that can be used for traversing a board - the initial stage of flattening. There is the metal jack plane, the wooden fore plane and the scrub plane. I don't think it's right to refer to a Stanley 6 as a fore plane, because as we've agreed, it's really too heavy for rough work. I think it's more a small jointer. I have a 6 and an 8, and I consider that they do the same job - either performing the final flattening of a board face with a very slight blade camber or flattening an edge with a dead straight iron. It's just that the 6 is better for smaller work, and the 8 for bigger. Even then I don't really need the 8, I just happened to pick up a beautiful pre-War model for cheaps.

[pmcgee]

Even saying 'scrub plane' ... there is the #40 and #40-1/2 stanley planes, and Carter made a C10 that is a lot bigger ... then there is the european horn-style scrub, ... and the japanese would have a version ...


The wooden one was too light for me to use on old jarrah with an applique of 'concrete' paint, but with that wide-open mouth it was very good on the slimy wet surface just under taking off the bark.

Cheers,
Paul

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[snafuspyramid]

My scrub plane is from ALDI. It cost a few Euro. It is the European horned style. The blade is incredibly hard steel, which is perfect for a scrub. A bit of work opening the mouth, and filing off some rough edges, and it is a fantastic little plane.ImageUploadedByTapatalk1348824699.775601.jpg