When i got this frame saw discussed previously in testing rip speed, it was about $65. These things are now about $105 plus tax or plus tax and shipping in the US, which doesn't make any sense to me, so I may need to make a second one.

(this is a carry over from the ripping thread that got hijacked in turns, and i took my turn talking about this - so a different thread now).

I was out of town over the weekend and work is busy, so my experimenting is limited.

However, I put in some sweat equity setting up the saw and taking test cuts last week and like playing guitar, well, or when I used to - when you're working through something new and it's going well but not perfect, you put it down for a few days, let time pass, and then it works when you come back. This is a legitimate thing in music - the brain does something with what you've learned when it's storing things and the next time, you are a little more refined.

I'd cut up my three+ foot subject board and what I have left that's sat in water and has too many defects to use is the same stock pile, but a different short - so only about 16" long necessitating taking a bunch of rips.

https://ofhandmaking.com/wp-content/...0573253499.jpg
https://ofhandmaking.com/wp-content/...0978877424.jpg

lined with a pencil and straight edge and then just successive cuts. The last cut I made had one wobble in it that wouldn't have been terminal, but with the saw sitting there and one more junk board, it seemed a good time to have another go and try to knock off several edges and get them all right.

Same 5/4 stock.

Same 75-80% pace but deference to squareness and line and same experimenting with where the force comes from, and it just all worked. It's easy. it's faster than I can rip with a rip saw by a little, and legitimately another way that I'm going to rip wood, not just one that I can, but I will.

In that picture is the cut edge just off the line removing a little.

Two random shots along the line for squareness:
https://ofhandmaking.com/wp-content/...3139227656.jpg
https://ofhandmaking.com/wp-content/...5895383480.jpg

This isn't overly carefully done, though one always concentrates on squareness and staying right on the cut line with any rough ripping.

My tablesaws where I've had some wander and a blade swirl have always been at least as inaccurate as this. it's ready for use in work in that as soon as the saw marks are cleaned off, I can be at the line with no fear of anything but mismarking, which is rare working at hand tool speed. The head is clearer than working with power tools.

https://ofhandmaking.com/wp-content/...7919777459.jpg

So, the reason for the talk about the cost of the saws, is I think I wouldn't mind having a second one of these set up. this is about a 3 1/2 tpi saw, and that's not going to play that well in 1/2 stock for drawers.

I'll tooth another blade around 7tpi.

But I guess I'll make the saw. I know you guys don't want to hear about markup and distribution add ons, but it does seem for most of the stuff made in europe, we get screwed. The saw is 71 euros in europe, including vat. it should be about 70 bucks here in dollars. Instead it's over $100.

I'm Partial to the saw because many of the other saws like it when I got mine had problems with holding a blade straight - this saw doesn't. But a little bit of flat stock and a few dollars of rod and some scrap wood and I can make the same thing without trouble. So I guess I will. I'm going to be making the blade for it, anyway.