Thread: a funny little saw

It certainly peeled that banana nicely!

You made a saw just for working on bananas - wow

actually looks good - wasn't originally a half back was it?

You a redditor Bridger?

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I saw (smirk) no evidence of it ever having a back. I did shorten it a couple of inches to get rid of the holes from the previous handle and reprofile the back line a bit, but not much.

Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker

You made a saw just for working on bananas - wow

actually looks good - wasn't originally a half back was it?

yep. posted it there and at neanderthal haven too.

Originally Posted by code4pay

You a redditor Bridger?

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Still have my little saw I got to use as a kid. Doesn't look that nice. I ought to clean it up and pass it on to my Grandson when he gets a little older. He is only 3 but loves tools.

These in-between saws can certainly be useful, Bridger. I made myself a 14" 10 tpi rip a while ago & it's the handiest little thing, not taper-ground, unfortunately, but still does a great job on small, thinnish pieces.. Small rip 10tpi.jpg

Cheers,

gentlemen

Is there any reason for the shape of the blades of your respective saws?
or is that just how they came?

mine is *mostly* how it came. I took a little off of the back near the handle getting it to fair in.

Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker

gentlemen

Is there any reason for the shape of the blades of your respective saws?
or is that just how they came?

that's a pretty little thing, there. what wood is the handle?

there are so many old saws floating around with taper ground plates and damage like a kink or a crack about 1/3 of the way up from the toe and handle problems that can be used as steel donors that personally I would have a hard time justifying purchasing new steel to make smaller saws. but then I'm not making them to sell...

Originally Posted by IanW

These in-between saws can certainly be useful, Bridger. I made myself a 14" 10 tpi rip a while ago & it's the handiest little thing, not taper-ground, unfortunately, but still does a great job on small, thinnish pieces.. Small rip 10tpi.jpg

Cheers,

If you are not a wood carver, you might not appreciate the broad usefulness of a "small" handsaw.
I need one, maybe 12" long, quite stiff, the width of the kerf isn't an issue for rough-outs.

Do you suppose I could begin with something economical, like a Stanley "Sharptooth," and cut it down?
Or, might I look in garage sales for starting material?

Originally Posted by bridger

I did shorten it a couple of inches to get rid of the holes from the previous handle and reprofile the back line a bit, but not much.

Serious this time bridger, how did you go drilling new holes for the new handle?

Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker

gentlemen

Is there any reason for the shape of the blades of your respective saws?
or is that just how they came?

Nick, mine started out as an oblong chunk of steel. I shaped it to what I thought looked 'right' at the time. If I made another one, it would probably be a different shape. I've only made a few non-backed saws & I'm still exploring shapes. My thinking is to try to reduce the width of as much of the saw as practicable to reduce friction, as well as get a pleasing shape. The saw above needs more off, I reckon, but it works fine, so I'll probably leave it alone. I don't yet know how much I can shave off the toe end without losing stiffness to the point where it gets whippy. Anyone who has used a very worn down old saw will know what I mean....

Cheers,

the steel in those is fine. I wouldn't go that route unless the saw was free. I'd start with a saw that had a tooth configuration as close to what I wanted to end up with as I could get, and the sharptooth pattern is for green wood AFAICT. for my purposes I'd have to grind the whole toothline off and retooth- those induction hardened teeth are not sharpenable with a file. plus, $10 is too much when I can buy far superior vintage saws at yard sales for $1 to $5.

Originally Posted by Robson Valley

If you are not a wood carver, you might not appreciate the broad usefulness of a "small" handsaw.
I need one, maybe 12" long, quite stiff, the width of the kerf isn't an issue for rough-outs.

Do you suppose I could begin with something economical, like a Stanley "Sharptooth," and cut it down?
Or, might I look in garage sales for starting material?