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  1. #16
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    Kate; were you referring to Kleiberit Glue.https://www.richelieu.com/ca/en/cate...-glues/1003390

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  3. #17
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    Nov 2016
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    Blue Mountains
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    OK now I really want to start making planes. That's really nice work Stewie

  4. #18
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    Australia
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    Kate; can I suggest you mark the bed line on both sides of plane body before you glue on the laminated sole. It will save you some guess work when you go to form the new mouth opening.

    Stewie;

  5. #19
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    Completed the 1st stage of mortising out. (Outside the wedge abutment line and to a depth above the top line of the wear angle.) This cautious approach on initial depth reduces the likelihood of breaching the 2 targeted bevel angles. The pilot holes through the mouth were done on a pedestal drill with the tool rest locked in at a 95 degree angle. The double irons arrived in the post.




  6. #20
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    The 2nd stage of mortising out has been completed. A Dremel fitted with a spiral cutter was used to break through the mouth opening. The wear height was set at 3/4".






  7. #21
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    The 3rd stage of mortising out has the wedge abutments been formed. The double irons + wooden wedge have also been fettled in. The last photo shows the rear bun sitting in position behind the bed.






  8. #22
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    Australia
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    Near completion. The side cheeks have been flared out and the eyes shaped in. All 4 sides of the plane stock flat sanded to 220 grit. The rear bun has been Hide Glued into position. The decision was made to make up a new front horn with some design changes. Those changes include a 180 degree dowel fit- stopped mortise and tenon joint on the heel. At this stage the new front horn has been roughly shaped ready for fine tuning work with finely stitched Logier Rasps. That will be completed tomorrow ready for gluing in. The 3rd photo shows my earlier attempt at shaping a German shaped front horn. (tote)






  9. #23
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    Nov 2016
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    Yes I was referring to Kleiberit Glue

  10. #24
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    Nov 2016
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    Blue Mountains
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    Yeah I was referring the the Kleiberit Polyurethane "501" glue not the PVA

  11. #25
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    Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kate84TS View Post
    Yeah I was referring the the Kleiberit Polyurethane "501" glue not the PVA
    Should be okay for the application your looking at. http://www.monarotimber.com.au/Produ...oduct_Info.pdf

  12. #26
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    Stewie

    You were not happy with the first effort with the horn. Too slim?

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  13. #27
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    Paul; there was an opportunity to improve upon my 1st attempt. The shape of the German horn is quite complex within its shaping. It has 6 different side profiles that vary in pitch that need to meld into some sort of visually appealing 3 dimensional form. That's the goal anyway. Definitely not something you should contemplate the morning after a heavy night on the turps.

    Stewie;

  14. #28
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    The front horn is finally hide glued into position. I will allow the glue harden for 48hrs before I apply the 1st of 3 coats of Danish Oil.


  15. #29
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    3 coats of Danish Oil was applied over a 24hr period. Both the cap iron and cutting iron were then honed to a steeper secondary bevel. A light camber was worked to the cutting edge. A fine grit Norton Carborundum Oilstone 1st, followed by a finer grit Arkansas Oilstone. The Smoothing Plane was then rigorously tested on Australian Jarrah taking both thick to lighter shavings. The plane performed exceptionally well with both types of shaving. The shaping of the planes front horn and rear bun mould very nicely within the hands during use . Job done.

    Stewie;






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