Thread: Hand Drills, Brace and bit and Auger bit files

Hi Kate, welcome to this corner of the Forum. I have very limited knowledge of braces, though I've always had a couple on hand since I started woodworking. I confess I use my 14V Makita far more nowadays, but we'll keep that a secret between us.

One of the regulars on this section can wax lyrical on braces, so I'll leave it to him to discuss the fine points (Onyer, Geoff ). What caught my eye was your request for advice on files. My answer to that is "Good luck!" The way files in general have deteriorated over the last 25 years is alarming, and those of us who sharpen saws have been lamenting the fact for quite some time. I suspect you will have very little choice in brands that are recognisable or recommended, but Lee Valley still offer one (at an eye-watering price!). I suppose the good news is that they do last a while....

Cheers,

Hi Ian,

Yeah its hard to put down a 14v cordless but I have manged to. This said I have found as many do for larger holes 3/4" and above the brace and bit cuts faster and does not Jam.

I totally agree with your comment regarding the quality of newer files the same can be said for rasps. The over whelming amount of rubbish files out there is just huge. I have resorted to looking to using what professional Jewelers use which I believe are Swiss made.
As for specially sharpening files its even harder as you know. I have seen the Lee Valley one and I am thinking of buying before all the decent file makers are gone.

Thanks,

Kate

I think Henry Eckert sells an auger file by Grobet. I got a saw file from them a while back that works (and just being able to say "it works" is a good thing...).

As far as preference on two versus four jaw, I have never really thought of this as a matter of preference. For the old style, four sided style shank, don't you genuinely NEED a two jaw style to hold them?

I own both, but have literally never used my four jaw brace. It's just wall candy. I've never found myself in a position where I needed that kind of torque on a hex or round shank bit. I, like Ian, am a fan of my battery powered drill and my recently acquired drill press. The brace is definitely a "special use" tool that I only really get out for funny angled drilling of large holes, reaming tapers, or for jobs that I can't get under the press. Think workbench holes or chair/stool/sawbench staked tenons. I wouldn't really call it a matter of preference though. I love my Miller's Falls four jaw brace. It still has 95% of its original nickel plating and pristine, cherry handles. Nonetheless it's just nowhere near as useful as the two jaw, rustbucket Stanley. With my graduates set of Irwin Augers. I also own a flathead driver bit that I have found useful about twice, but I couldn't have done that job without it, so it's a keeper.

Cheers,
Luke

There are definitely some jobs my brace does better than anything else, so it's always going to have a place in my toolbox. Luke mentioned one job for which it has no equal, in my experience - removing large old slotted-head screws that have locked themselves in for half a century or more. The combination of torque you can bring to bear plus being able to lean hard on the pad to prevent slipping gets the attention of any stuck screw I've met! They either give up & come out quietly, or shear off. Fortunately the latter case is pretty rare, but can be a real nuisance when it does happen!

I'm a dedicated hand-tool user for much of my woodworking, and still use turnsrews daily, but for so many routine jobs, the battery drill has no peer - it's one of the very few electron-burners I actually like (probably shouldn't admit that in this section of the Forum, should I? . I've just finished assembling a DIY kitchen & had reason to bless my Makita many times over. My other half was working in the next room, and after one prolonged session of screw-driving and the noise of the torque-limiter letting go repeatedly, she came out & asked me what I would have done if I didn't have 'that noisy little thing'? I had been thinking along the same lines myself, in fact! I guess I would've developed a much stronger wrist...

WRT the chuck, the two-jaw is fairly versatile, and as Luke says, is pretty much de riguer for the old style bits (which still seem to be plentiful & cheap wherever old tools accumulate). I use mine to grip the hex-shanked Irwin augers successfully (mind you, the biggest is 1") and it even holds a couple of long eye-augers that I chopped the top off, leaving a round shank. Again, the largest is only a half inch, but it does take a bit of turning when it's 3 or 400mm into something. However, I'm sure there must be a few situations where a four-jaw or Jacobs chuck would be preferable.

If you are going to embrace the brace, I reckon you will find all manner of ways to use them, and I'll bet Geoff can suggest a few, when he finally leaves his collection & chimes in here. C'mon Geoff, where are you...?

Cheers,

Well Kate what can I say? Ian and Luke have pretty well covered it. First of all I must say that I am not a very good wood worker, however as a collector of braces and brace tools I need to learn as much as I can about how the tools work and in the case of auger bits how to sharpen them. I use a small triangular file (Yato made in Poland) which on very small diameter bits you have to be very careful as it hasn't got a safe side.
You've already got a Stanley No78 12" so you probably need a smaller sweep brace and I think you are on the right track with getting a Ball brace about say 8" sweep. The 78 can grip a hex bit but the Ball will only hold square tapered tang bits.
The advantage of a ratchet brace is obviously that you can use the ratchet function in a tight corner but an older well used example may have a lot of wear in the moving parts of the ratchet which will be avoided in a fixed or non ratchet model.
In my opinion the look of a brace is important in a shop environment, if you're doing high quality cabinet work and you've got a nice clean antique brace on the bench it's going to enhance the view.
I don't know anything about 4 jaw braces.
Cheers,
Geoff.

Hello Kate,

I have never had a dedicated auger bit file, but would like to try one out to see if it works as well as it is described to do.

What I have used with very good results, for over 10 years, on auger bits from 1/4" - 2 1/2" are the diamond files
that come in a packet of six of various profiles ( round, half round, flat, triangle etc. etc.)

They stay sharp, do not clog up, cut very fast and leave a very smooth finish.

Their only drawback is that they are coated all over, so there is no safe or non abrasive edge,
which is fine as long as you are watching closely as you sharpen your bit.

If you get a packet of them, they'll last for ages and can be used for any other job as well

Regards

Graham.

Originally Posted by Kate84TS

A recommendation of good quality well priced Auger bit file would also be appreciated.

Corradi makes them: Auger Bit Riffler File - Corradi Shop, High quality files and rasps

Originally Posted by Boringgeoff

In my opinion the look of a brace is important in a shop environment, if you're doing high quality cabinet work and you've got a nice clean antique brace on the bench it's going to enhance the view.

At the end of the day, there's a solid chance that this is going to be the most valuable bit of info you get from this thread

Luke and Ian I agree with you totally in regards to the uses of a brace especially on bigger jobs by 12" 78 is awsome for torque and speed but to big and clumsy for finer controlled work.

Geoff this is they style of smaller brace I am looking at getting
As for only taking square shank tapered bits that's fine. I am actually thinking of making one with a hex shank or 3 jaw chuck simillar to the Star M Japanese made one but a little more robust Which you may or may not have seen. I also totally agree that looks are half of it.

regards Kate Adamson

Thanks Graham,

I did not think of the small dimond files they would also cut HSS bits too.

Hi Geoff,

Yeah I was thinking a of getting a smaller 8" or even smaller 6" brace for finer work. I am currently after a new set of Jaws for my 12" No78 which I am sure you understand is easier said than done. I think then it would hold hex bits a little better.

I you know of any one or any where to get decent condition ones please met me know.

regards Kate

Originally Posted by Kate84TS

Thanks Graham,

I did not think of the small dimond files they would also cut HSS bits too.

I got a set of diamond files from another long time forum member, Aldav I'm quite happy with them.
You can contact him directly using private message.

Kate, 50 years ago you could have just popped into your local McPhersons and bought a replacement jaw set for your No78. I'll have a look at what I've got here and get back to you. The ball brace you linked to looks like it might have issues with the handle (ball). I think you really need to have a good look and handle it before shelling out that kind of money.
Cheers,
Geoff.

Originally Posted by Kate84TS

Hi Geoff,

Yeah I was thinking a of getting a smaller 8" or even smaller 6" brace for finer work. I am currently after a new set of Jaws for my 12" No78 which I am sure you understand is easier said than done. I think then it would hold hex bits a little better.

I you know of any one or any where to get decent condition ones please met me know.

regards Kate

Kate , I use a quick release hex bit holder in a 2 jaw chuck . The one I use has a thick hollow shank designed for driver/drill reversible combo bits. Veritas makes a square shanked hex bit driver as well. I actually have about 10 different braces loaded with bits and drivers and countersinks that i commonly use. Most of the braces I've bought for a few dollars at local flea markets