Thread: So I made another hand plane. VROOM VROOM!

Wow, looks fast

Just saw this on your Facebook page, excellent work there Kuffy!


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Ok
Now that does look impressive.
Your first one was ok but I think you have well and truly out done your self now.
Is this a new business venture we're seeing.

Cheers Matt

Yes Matt, you guessed it. I started this in February, it is now August. By my math I'll need to sell them for 10's of 1000's of dollars EACH! I suppose I could reduce the price considerably if I would invest in a few more gouges but I hate buying stuff just to make things easier, seems wrong.

Thoroughly enjoyed watching your video, looks like you enjoyed making that very practical toy.
Nice looking workshop with some very nice equipment in there. Is it your SWMBO behind the camera? Either way, they are doing a great job.
Now you have to put your thinking cap on to come up with another tool / toy to live with your Chevy.

Alan...

Originally Posted by Kuffy

Yes Matt, you guessed it. I started this in February, it is now August. By my math I'll need to sell them for 10's of 1000's of dollars EACH! I suppose I could reduce the price considerably if I would invest in a few more gouges but I hate buying stuff just to make things easier, seems wrong.

Seen the price of rusty Chevy metal lately lol
Your in the right ball park for sure

Originally Posted by Uncle Al

Is it your SWMBO behind the camera? Either way, they are doing a great job.

She who must be obeyed. Pfft, as if I ever obey, so naturally enough I am still single, by choice. Ladies choice
I film it myself. I recently found a new thing in my editing software "pan and zoom". It lets me zoom in on an area then slowly pan away and out or vice versa. Looks like someone is pressing the zoom in/out buttons on the camera. It does lose quality as you zoom in on what is just a 1920x1080 picture, but it is all I have. Im going to buy a 4k resolution camera when I do my taxes, and with that the quality losses will be much much less, nearly none.

And Matt, you are quite right. A rusty junkie front bumper of a 57 chev is worth more than my ute, not that my ute is any good, damn thing loves to touch park. Why it touch parks with concrete walls is beyond my understanding

Originally Posted by Kuffy

She who must be obeyed. Pfft, as if I ever obey, so naturally enough I am still single, by choice. Ladies choice
I film it myself. I recently found a new thing in my editing software "pan and zoom". It lets me zoom in on an area then slowly pan away and out or vice versa. Looks like someone is pressing the zoom in/out buttons on the camera. It does lose quality as you zoom in on what is just a 1920x1080 picture, but it is all I have. Im going to buy a 4k resolution camera when I do my taxes, and with that the quality losses will be much much less, nearly none.

And Matt, you are quite right. A rusty junkie front bumper of a 57 chev is worth more than my ute, not that my ute is any good, damn thing loves to touch park. Why it touch parks with concrete walls is beyond my understanding

Sally dreams of me doing up a 57 Chevy for her(dreams).
We used one for our weeding cars, and a 80s rusty Volvo.
I even got to drive the Volvo lol.


I think your ute was Ford from memory,need I say more [emoji12]

Originally Posted by Kuffy

I film it myself. I recently found a new thing in my editing software "pan and zoom". It lets me zoom in on an area then slowly pan away and out or vice versa. Looks like someone is pressing the zoom in/out buttons on the camera. It does lose quality as you zoom in on what is just a 1920x1080 picture, but it is all I have. Im going to buy a 4k resolution camera when I do my taxes, and with that the quality losses will be much much less, nearly none.

That's very clever software. Certainly fooled me!

Alan...

Very impressive, Kuffy! You don't like doing things by halves, do you? Making a boring, straight-sided jointer body from highly figured Red Gum would've been enough challenge for me, without all the dressing up.....

I got a bit confused by your escapement angle - I take it the 60 degrees is measured from the sole (which would make the angle relative to the blade-bed greater for the 60 than 70 deg.)? I discovered how easy it is to mis-judge the forward angle the hard way, on the high-angle infill I made a few years back (my avatar pic). Unfortunately, it was too late to do anything about it in my case, & my plane has a tendency to choke when taking very fine shavings (which is mostly what you do with a plane like this), due to the fine shavings not having enough rigidity to push up the accumulating waste at the steeper angle of the blade. Sloping the front of the throat more might not cure the problem entirely, but at least it would make it easier to clean out...

I hope your glue joints hold up over the long term - my first jointer was a laminated job & I used PVA glue (against advice to the contrary), which let go a dozen years or so down the track. I wasn't too upset, because it was a dog of a plane to use, but would hate to see your creation self-destruct after all that effort!
Cheers,

I was asked on facebook for a photo of the mouth opening. I can't take a photo worth a damn, so I sketched up roughly what I have done to the mouth. When I say 55° bed angle, I mean that is the cutting angle which is probably easily understood. the 60° escapement can be a little misleading if you are thinking of traditional plane making. If I was any good, I would have cut the 55° and then the 60° and laminated the plane together, buzzed the sole and ended up with the perfect 0.3-0.5mm mouth opening. But I didn't, so I had to put another, more traditional, angle in the escapement with a file. so the following pic is a good representation as to what I have actually done. numbers are approximate, this aint no smoother. It's just a plane which gets me close to the line for an actual smoother to finish off.
mouth.png

I figured out that was most likely what you meant, Kuff, so that's ok.

Actually, the way you've done the escapement is what I understand to be the 'proper' way. If you had made it the way you suggest above (i.e., cutting the two angles & butting the blade-bed & front piece, then planing to get the desired mouth opening), you wouldn't be able to re-surface the sole in years to come (if it gets that much use.. ). without increasing the width of the mouth. As you've done it, you can re-surface your sole a few times and still maintain the current mouth width.....

Funny I should've mentioned de-laminating planes this morning! I was making a chair today, & got to shaping the seat. So I pulled out my scorp, and the little double-radiused plane I made 30-plus years ago, which is just dandy for cleaning up after the scorp. Blow me down if the darn thing hadn't let go along the back of the blade bed on one side! I'm pretty sure it was glued with epoxy, too, which just adds to my 'you can never trust glue' attitude. So before I left the shed tonight, I wedged it open enough so I could clean the surfaces with a small scraper, worked in some epoxy & left it lightly clamped.

This plane was just a 'proof of concept' job, but it worked well enough that I never got around to building the 'real' one. I'll see if my fix worked in a day or two, so I can at least finish the chair seat. If it didn't, it looks like the time has come to get serious about a replacement.....

Cheers,

I would never trust epoxy in a face to face lamination. To get a good bond, you are forced to have a fat glue line, or go for a standard thin glue line and start with a compromised lamination. I think of epoxy as a filler (cracks and voids), or as a tile cement (marquetry, parquetry, veneer), or the odd loose chair mortise n tenon

I trust titebond pva with my life more often than I probably should. Seems to work.

Kuffy, Have you been able to "shave" a few seconds off your quarter mile time?