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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
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    Seattle, Washington, USA
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    1,857

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    I fancy myself a bit of a collector of 1880s Disstons, and this is nothing short of tragic!

    Plenty of handles for rip D8s out there if you decide to replace.

    http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/botan...saw/1042713837

    Peter at vintagesaws.com may be able to help you. Then there's also disstonianinstitute.com . Worth a shot.

    There's always option X, which is to toss it in the bin and PM me the GPS coordinates of the aforementioned bin...

    Good luck!

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  3. #17
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    May 2008
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    Australia
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    2,357

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    Hi Vann. If you decide to make a new handle this template scan might come in handy.

    Stewie;

    http://www.wenzloffandsons.com/image..._thumbhole.pdf

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Armadale Perth WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    Although it's not too badly affected by large borer holes, the whole thing feels light, and is crumbly - like it has no guts (maybe the borer has set off rot?). A repair wouldn't last long.

    I think my best bet is a replacement handle, using this one as a pattern ...
    Cheers, Vann.
    Ok, well then this is why I haven't posted the drill bits yet.

    I have a brown paper bag here that I had thought had a half-dozen plus assorted handles.
    Turns out it has a half-dozen Disston D8-style handles of varying ages.

    If you can photocopy (or photograph) that handle along with two rulers for x- and y-axis, I can at least check these for the holes matching up. There's only one thumbhole handle, the others are 'normal' D8-style.

    My impression in the past was that maybe after 1918 you had a reasonable chance of being able to swap two handles, but before that it was unlikely. I could be wrong, I can't remember why I thought that.

    If you're interested, let me know.
    Cheers,
    Paul

  5. #19
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    Sep 2008
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    Petone, NZ
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    Sorry guys - I haven't dropped off the face of the planet . We're on a plan where, once the kids have used up the monthly broadband allocation, we drop back to dial-up speed - which makes it a pain to post (next month's allocation cuts in tomorrow - I hope) I'm doing this from work, on their PC

    Quote Originally Posted by mark david
    If you get an epoxy resin such as West sytem and a small syringe and inject into as many holes as you can you may be able to repair it and give it a new lease of life.
    Interesting idea David. But not for me. It sounds like a lot of work; in this case it probably wouldn't be enough; and I'd end up with a plastic (resin) handle.
    Quote Originally Posted by IanW
    The biggest challenge you'll face, I think, is the blade slot.
    Yes I find that quite daunting. Maybe if I had a router table (and a variable speed router)... Making it in two halves would be within my capabilities. I might try that if nothing better comes along. I'd use the existing handle as a template. I don't know what species my piece of beech is. It could be an NZ species, but not necessarily. It was a tree on a farm that was cut down for firewood - so could have been an exotic planting.
    Quote Originally Posted by pmcgee View Post
    Ok, well then this is why I haven't posted the drill bits yet.


    Quote Originally Posted by pmcgee
    I have a brown paper bag here that I had thought had a half-dozen plus assorted handles.
    Turns out it has a half-dozen Disston D8-style handles of varying ages.

    If you can photocopy (or photograph) that handle along with two rulers for x- and y-axis, I can at least check these for the holes matching up.
    I'll do that. It just might take a while for me to get back to it (SWMBO has a few jobs she wants done). I'll need to take the handle off (see how many screws won't come off without a fight ).

    Quote Originally Posted by pmcgee
    My impression in the past was that maybe after 1918 you had a reasonable chance of being able to swap two handles, but before that it was unlikely.
    I must try dating this saw - haven't done that yet (very slack of me ).

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Camden, NSW
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    74
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    3,576

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    Vann,
    All of those positive and constructive suggestions above are for TOMORROW!
    TODAY, I'll share a tear with you!

    fletty
    a rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    76

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    Vann,

    I have some old, dry Japanese Maple from a dead tree we cut down. Very dense with about 60 years of growth rings. In Gembrook.

    BR,
    Fraser

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    Although it's not too badly affected by large borer holes, the whole thing feels light, and is crumbly - like it has no guts (maybe the borer has set off rot?). A repair wouldn't last long.

    I think my best bet is a replacement handle, using this one as a pattern (as suggested by orraloon). I've not attempted a new handle yet - and I think that would move it a long way down the to-do projects list - especially due to the added complexity of a thumbhole handle. But I'd like to give it a go. I find (in my very limited experience) that thumbhole handles feel skinny. When I do get around to making a replacement, I might make it 2mm thicker, just to see how that feels.

    I have some dry apple branches, but nothing big enough. I guess I could join two bits??? Other options (in timber that I have) include peach (also too small), rimu, beech (not sure what variety) and purpleheart. And I could try a dummy run in good old pinus radiata.

    I'm not sure I like the idea of a handle off another saw - though I may get desperate. I think I have a reasonable thumbhole handle on a bent blade (somewhere ).

    Cheers, Vann.

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    Millmerran,QLD
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    I had a similar problem to Vann recently. D8 thumbhole rip saw 28" with an "open" handle. Ie. part of the grip was completely missing. I had another sawplate only and two or three spare D8/D-8 handles, but none fitted the hole pattern: Not far off, but far enough.

    Back to the thumbhole problem and my solution. I have to point out it ended up being a prototype with two glaring faults and to top that off it fell on the floor this evening and chipped the top horn.

    Disston D-8 001.jpgDisston D-8 005.jpgDisston D-8 002.jpgDisston D-8 004.jpg

    This is how I did it:

    Tote tools 013.jpg

    This shows the original handle cut away and a slitting saw in place. Something you have to watch out for with slitting saws is that they often even in this size have a cutting depth of only 20mm. No good for this purpose.

    I used a fence and a block of wood to support the handle in position. Neither of these are shown here.

    The mistake I made was to position the slot too low so the saw nuts are nearly off the handle and I was over exuberant with the subsequent cutting with a pull saw similar to Ian's (in fact I go the idea from him) and I cut through the lower guard of the handle, which you can see. Here is the pull saw:

    Tote tools 005.jpg

    So you can see there is quite a lot involved with these curved saw plates and I am still not there . I do have several to make up so I thought it was worth while, but for only one saw .....No I don't think so. Cut the curve off and no one will know except you .

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  9. #23
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    Aug 2009
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    Armadale Perth WA
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    I've never cut a handle open ... is that the curve that was there originally, where it is sitting on the slitting blade?

    And you made a new thumbhole handle? Wicked.

    Cheers,
    Paul

  10. #24
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    Nov 2004
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    Millmerran,QLD
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    Quote Originally Posted by pmcgee View Post
    I've never cut a handle open ... is that the curve that was there originally, where it is sitting on the slitting blade?
    Paul

    Yes, that is the original curve. I gradually cut it away with a router until one half was completely removed to reveal the profile. The blade (6 1/4") is almost sitting exactly on the blade but not quite. That was the reason for the pull saw as I needed to refine the cut. Bear in mind that there is a second curve at the heel, which is the other need for the pull saw.

    The slitting saw is mounted in a 7 1/4" saw with an appropriate bush to suit the 1" hole. I originally tried the slitting saw in my ancient Triton work bench, but I lost too much depth of cut. Consequently I had to make up a plate (2mm from memory) to which I attached the saw direct.

    Ineterstingly, that was an issue. I originally used a plate cut from an old, large circular saw (3mm thick). However I was completely unable to drill the plate. So I started again with some mild steel, which proved to be adequate

    The "bench" is an old saw table made from 32mm mdf that in it's time has housed two routers and a circular saw. The mdf was recessed where the saw plate was fitted to maximise the cutting depth.

    I also cut as much of the slot as possible with one of Ian Wilkie's half back saws in advance of using the slitting saw. As Ian mentioned, the slitting saws are intended for metal and in wood cutting needs to be done slowly and minimised to avoid burning.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Brisbane (western suburbs)
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    12,093

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushmiller View Post
    .... Something you have to watch out for with slitting saws is that they often even in this size have a cutting depth of only 20mm. No good for this purpose....
    Paul, the blade you are using is pretty close to the the diameter of the back of the original blade slot - what is its diameter? It also looks like it's rellief-ground - a slitting blade. As long as you don't need to cut deeper than the relief, that would be a big help. What I've got are slotting blades, flat discs with no relief, & no set, meant for making shallow slots in metal (e.g. screw slots), not deep cuts in wood! They bind & grab in wood and hand-held cutting with these blades is not a good idea. Definitely not recommended..
    IW

  12. #26
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    Apr 2012
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    Sydney
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    How wide is the slitting saw blade?
    Did you make or purchase the slitting saw?

  13. #27
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    Sep 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by pmcgee View Post
    And you made a new thumbhole handle? Wicked.
    I agree. If it's the one in the first three photos, I'm impressed.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  14. #28
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    Jun 2008
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    Victoria, Australia
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    Nicely done Paul,

    I was looking at how to do this the the other day, and I'm thinking a smaller diameter saw would get closer to that blade profile at the back, just near the top where the larger saw diameter doesn't reach.
    Incidentally, did you do the shallow cut into the lambstongue? I reckon that would be pretty tricky to get right. I'd even consider not cutting it and leave the lambstongue intact.

    Ray


    Saw Handle with Borer-tote-tools-013-jpg

  15. #29
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    Nov 2004
    Location
    Millmerran,QLD
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    73
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    Quote Originally Posted by hiroller View Post
    How wide is the slitting saw blade?
    Did you make or purchase the slitting saw?
    Hiroller

    The blade is 6 1/4" and it was purchased from the US. I think it has about 250 teeth. It would be fairly daunting to make that without toothing machinery.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  16. #30
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    Nov 2004
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    Millmerran,QLD
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    I agree. If it's the one in the first three photos, I'm impressed.

    Cheers, Vann.
    The one in the first four photos in fact . I was quite pleased until I came to drill the holes for the sawnuts.

    There is a strict protocol to follow, which basically is governed by how easy it is to stuff up a particular aspect.

    Consequently you should cut the blank, cut the slot for the plate and drill the holes for the saw nuts. After that you can get into the fun bit of shaping the handle.

    Needless to say I didn't follow that exactly .

    I did take the opportunity to "refine" my handle a little. For example, although my hand is only slightly larger than average, my thumb did not easily fit into the thumbhole, so I enlarged it by a nat's whisker and also rounded the hole a little more until it was more comfortable. At that point I found that when using the saw one handed it is quite natural for the index finger to curl into the thumbhole, but the profile didn't suit the human hand. So I fixed that up too. Lastly, and this is purely cosmetic, I made the top and bottom horns a little flamboyant. At first glance the handle is a replica of the original, but not on close inspection.

    Btw, nobody asked me what timber I used. Perhaps you all know me too well .

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

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