Thread: Handplanes and rust (!!!!!) - New Veritas'

BTW, Camelia oil is mostly oleic acid, so is olive oil. I'd get the non-virgin olive oil as it's cheaper and has been refined. Plus if you're ever hacking away and feel a need to toss up a salad...

Personally I would avoid vegetable oils.
Raw linseed is too sticky. Others too thin and ultimately prone to smelly rot.
Olive oil in particular goes rancid quickly.

Sweet almond oil is very good especially if you add vitamin E to resist rancidity. Not sure if I'd add it to my plane sole/cheeks though!

V

Originally Posted by rob streeper

BTW, Camelia oil is mostly oleic acid, so is olive oil. I'd get the non-virgin olive oil as it's cheaper and has been refined. Plus if you're ever hacking away and feel a need to toss up a salad...

'...resembles olive oil and grape seed oil in its excellent storage qualities^{[citation needed]} and low content of saturated fat. Monounsaturated oleic acid may comprise up to 88 percent of the fatty acids,...'


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tea_seed_oil

https://previa.uclm.es/grupo/gao/com/2010-stability_sensory_voo-ibti.pdf

Me too.

'Excellent storage qualities' refers to it in stored a bottle in the pantry for 12 months, not wiped on all the tools in the shed.
Vermin are likely to be attracted to that stink!

Originally Posted by woodPixel

Its not rust like an old engine block in the back yard - it's just a surface patina.

Where I touch it with my fingertips it leaves a mark. I also left a bit of titebond2 and it had a surface spot.

I know I'm being somewhat trivial, but these came to me in such beautiful finish it makes me a sad to see them loose their polished lustre!

The camelia oil is a good idea. I've read about it a few times in Japanese woodwork sites and its an ancient and trusted method of preventing rust on metal object in humid environs

Hi Woodpixel
you really have a choice to make.

do you allow your tools to develop patina -- which shows that they are well used and super useful
or
do you keep them looking in show room condition -- and risk being accused of being a collector rather than a user of the tools.

Personally, a few finger marks and a bit of patina helps me demonstrate that my collection of Lie Nielsen and Veritas planes are "users" rather than "man cave jewelry".

If you want to keep them nice any shiny, you will need to take time out of your business to buff your planes once a week or so.

Ian, I just hit them with some machine oil and 3000 grit wet and dry and they are now mirrors.

They might be shiny but they do get used Not toooooo many toys in this poor shed

shiny tools = collector's items

patina-ed tools = users

at least that's the way I classify my Wayne Anderson new improved miter plane

Been having this problem a lot more lately, been using 3 in 1 for years but it dries out eventually and tends to rub off easily so not useful for tools in use. And I have super corrosive sweat apparently, the photo of my No. 7 below is from probably about 4 hours use.



And the same plane from about a month ago.



Going to try out the recommendations above and will hopefully be able to make some comparisons. I haven't been that concerned in the past but seeing how quickly that jointer turned bad has me worried. I'm 35, I want to get a lot more years out of my tools if I can.

All we’ve used for 65 years is Johnson’s paste wax, leave them in the sun to warm up a bit, and then rub it on and polish it in, works fine.

I've posted this a few times before - Ferro-pack G15 !!!!!

I have not had any real success with WD40 as a preventative. I have used Ferro-pack G15 for a long time with great success. Many items are on the verandah, and I'm only 150m from salt water. I do also cover things with a cotton cloth (old sheets Etc)
Available from several places including Jim Davey and Carbatec. Eg
https://www.carbatec.com.au/workshop...lass-2-aerosol

Jim's price is much cheaper, but he doesn't post it so you have to buy from him at woodwork shows or his NSW South Coast location
Jim Davey - Woodworking Hand Tools - eShop - Sales

Originally Posted by riverbuilder

All we’ve used for 65 years is Johnson’s paste wax, leave them in the sun to warm up a bit, and then rub it on and polish it in, works fine.

Where do you buy it from? I haven’t been able to find it in OZ since it was mentioned some time ago.

Funny that G15 should be mentioned....

I was literally about to write a post asking someone on the forum to do me a .... sneaky favour.

I'm after a can of G15 (G15 Corrosion Inhibitor - 400ml | Carbatec) and Carbatec wants a completely stupid amount to post it to me.

I was hoping there might be a forum member who, after visiting their local Carbatec, would be happy to box one or two for me for collection by my courier?

Originally Posted by woodPixel

Funny that G15 should be mentioned....

I was literally about to write a post asking someone on the forum to do me a .... sneaky favour.

I'm after a can of G15 (G15 Corrosion Inhibitor - 400ml | Carbatec) and Carbatec wants a completely stupid amount to post it to me.

I was hoping there might be a forum member who, after visiting their local Carbatec, would be happy to box one or two for me for collection by my courier?

Group buy!!!

I could use a can or two, but access is an issue.

Originally Posted by woodPixel

Funny that G15 should be mentioned....

I was literally about to write a post asking someone on the forum to do me a .... sneaky favour.

I'm after a can of G15 (G15 Corrosion Inhibitor - 400ml | Carbatec) and Carbatec wants a completely stupid amount to post it to me.

I was hoping there might be a forum member who, after visiting their local Carbatec, would be happy to box one or two for me for collection by my courier?

If you are using your own courier, call Jim Davey & see if he has any available (link above) I'm sure he would be happy to box them for a pickup. (Its good to support Jim!)