Thread: Help with making my first saw handle

I assume you have had a look at the saw making sub-forum https://www.woodworkforums.com/f278. In there you find a plethora of info for just your needs

Cheers
Peter

Cutting the blade slot is a bit nerve wracking, I just scribe a line from both sides with a marking gauge to get the center line, then with a saw that has a kerf about the thickness of the plate you are using, cut all the way around, but only go about 1/8" deep, then gradually deepen the cut, and keep rotating the work as you gradually cut deeper. If you aren't confident, then try a practice piece.

Also, you should cut the slot before you do any shaping, so you have square sides to reference from.

The other techniques involve clamping a saw plate to a flat surface, and, Stewie has a neat method using slitting saw blades..

Ray

PS.. Nearly forgot.. I did a write up on this a while back... http://www.backsaw.net/index.php?opt...=58&Itemid=102

My couple of attempts have been with very thick stock. If the slit is a bit off centre or not straight it does not matter because you can remove the evidence as you thin the handle down.

Just for future reference the saw slot is one of the first things I do .
Why because it's the most critical .
If u get it out of line there's no easy fix .
So I like to do it first once that's out of the way the rest is still important but not as critical
Ray's method works well but is a skill .
Another approach is to lay the saw you are going to use to cut the saw kerf stacked up on horizontal blocks to the centre height of your new tote and clamp it down then push and pull the tore across the teeth of the horizontal saw in a way you are moving the material not the saw .
This approach works well ,a bit slow but still good .
Another approach like mine now is to use a slitting saw in a router( note u must be able to slow your router right down)table but this takes a bit of equipment and u have to know what your doing .
I would not recommend this if your not sure of the setup and what is required .
Ps we want pics it's the only reason we come here
Matt

I use the method RayG describes. It takes care & you need a goodly selection of saws (which run true!) so that you can match the gauge of saw you are bedding. The kerf can be just a little bigger than the plate thickness, as long as it will tighten up ok without undue force on your saw nuts. It's important to get a straight slot (i.e. all in one plane), because if it's curved, you will get a bow in the heel end of the saw when you tighten the bolts, which is unsightly, even if it's not severe enough to affect saw usage. The deeper the slot, the harder it is to get perfect.

Using a slitting saw of the right thickness helps a lot if you aren't confident sawing by hand. You can only cut about an inch deep, max, with a 3" blade because of the large boss. I haven't Simplicity's courage, my router can't be slowed down enough for me, so I use it in the drill-press - about 800rpm is plenty! As he says, if you aren't confident, don't do it, but if you do, think the process through & present the work in a way that if it catches (which happens easily, since slitting saw blades are for metal & have no set), you can restrain it without getting a finger or two dragged over the saw. You will still need to finish the kerf by hand on most handles. You also may need to deepen & round the back of the kerf depending on handle design & saw. To do this, I've made several small saws from scrap. These have teeth filed to cut on the pull stroke, and a rounded end like a stair saw. They have no set, so they are slow-cutting, but they do the job. The only time I bother with the slitting saw is when I have a batch to cut - it's a pita to set up perfectly in the DP, & not worth the effort for a single handle....

Cheers,

Originally Posted by IanW

I use the method RayG describes. It takes care & you need a goodly selection of saws (which run true!) so that you can match the gauge of saw you are bedding. The kerf can be just a little bigger than the plate thickness, as long as it will tighten up ok without undue force on your saw nuts. It's important to get a straight slot (i.e. all in one plane), because if it's curved, you will get a bow in the heel end of the saw when you tighten the bolts, which is unsightly, even if it's not severe enough to affect saw usage. The deeper the slot, the harder it is to get perfect.

Using a slitting saw of the right thickness helps a lot if you aren't confident sawing by hand. You can only cut about an inch deep, max, with a 3" blade because of the large boss. I haven't Simplicity's courage, my router can't be slowed down enough for me, so I use it in the drill-press - about 800rpm is plenty! As he says, if you aren't confident, don't do it, but if you do, think the process through & present the work in a way that if it catches (which happens easily, since slitting saw blades are for metal & have no set), you can restrain it without getting a finger or two dragged over the saw. You will still need to finish the kerf by hand on most handles. You also may need to deepen & round the back of the kerf depending on handle design & saw. To do this, I've made several small saws from scrap. These have teeth filed to cut on the pull stroke, and a rounded end like a stair saw. They have no set, so they are slow-cutting, but they do the job. The only time I bother with the slitting saw is when I have a batch to cut - it's a pita to set up perfectly in the DP, & not worth the effort for a single handle....

Cheers,

Hi Ian. The issues you raised with a slitting blade to cut the slot for the saw blade fit to the handle are very true. You need to have the right set up with your router table before contemplating this method. In my case that involves the use of a Woodpecker Router Lift and the new model Triton TRA001 with its variable speed benefits. Speed control is critical element when using a slitting blade mounted to a router.




Stewie;