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Thread: IanW in print again
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13th July 2016, 06:29 PM #31
Hi cava, I've sent the articles in, I know the editor has read them because I was asked for some clarification on a couple of points, but no news yet on whether/when they will be used. The lead-time for these things can be quite long, sometimes, depending on what they've already got to put in the mag.
Cheers,IW
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1st December 2016, 05:27 PM #32
Totally screwed
The second article on creating wooden threads is now available in the the latest Australian Wood Review for those of you who have been avidly following Ian's thoroughly informative story.
Quite a good issue too with an article on shop made wooden planes. SWMBO got hold of my copy first and now knows everything there is to know about Terry Gordon's moving filister plane!
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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1st December 2016, 09:45 PM #33
including the price!
regards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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1st December 2016, 10:18 PM #34
I have it on good authority she needed a drink steady her nerves!
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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4th December 2016, 08:07 PM #35
Picked up the magazine on the weekend.
Another great article, another great read.
It went down very well with a coffee and summer weather in the tha back yard
Thank you Ian.
Cheers Matt
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5th December 2016, 12:51 PM #36
Not having read it, I can't comment on the content, but I'm going to buy a copy. So Ian, you can say that your articles have increased sales.
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5th December 2016, 07:21 PM #37
Onyer, Ray! Any & all critique welcome...
It's a good mag, I reckon, not because they print stuff I write, but they try hard and do a pretty good job on what must be a rather small budget compared with overseas publications. I think it's well worth supporting, and worth having something good, with relevance for us, produced here in Oz. Do I sound like an AWR salesman? No affiliation & all that, just an appreciative subscriber....
Cheers,IW
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7th December 2016, 07:26 AM #38Senior Member
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Ditto to that, Linda is a woodworkers saint.
Dick
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7th December 2016, 08:18 AM #39
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11th December 2016, 10:31 PM #40GOLD MEMBER
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I notice that the video for the screw article has been posted online this week.
Nicely explained Ian.
https://youtu.be/a5Pa6BdZpAY
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12th December 2016, 08:41 AM #41
Thanks for the heads-up, Gavin. I was expecting it to appear last week, but forgot to check. Anyways, there it is, and I hope it helps make the accompanying article clearer. Many thanks to my professional film-making neighbour, who shot & edited the track.
One of the main things I wanted to show was how the blank should screw through really easily when it's set up properly and all is working well. If it's not going through as smoothly & easily as that, something is wrong, and you need to figure out what. The most common problem I have is leaving the blank a teeny bit too fat when I turn it. It needs to be a loose (but not 'sloppy') fit in a test-hole. The one I used in that demo was a bit too fat near the boss end and I had to force it a bit over the last 10 turns (we edited that out ). A very light skim with a sharp skew soon put things right, as predicted.
Another possible problem, which most people won't encounter, is that the nut on the jig gets a bit worn after many years of use, so even though the newly cut screw feeds through easily, it can be a bit over-size in a 'new' nut. I was threading some 3/4" clamp screws a couple of months back, using a jig I'd made at least 25 years ago, which has probably cut a couple of hundred screws, at least. Having done so many of these things and being over-confident, I just set up the jig & fired away with my first screw blank, instead of doing a test with a short bit of scrap. It went through ok, & the thread looked fine, but it was far too tight when I tested it in a freshly-tapped jaw! Fortunately, there is an easy solution to that problem.
Whatever you do don't just advance the cutter a smidgin and feed your over-size screw back through. The newly-cut, deeper thread going through the nut will cause the pitch to alter slightly & progressively, so that after a few inches, you'll be cutting away most of your thread and wreck the screw entirely. I discovered this (the hard way, of course!), very early in my threading career.
The 'trick' is to de-plunge the router, advance the cutter just a bit, feed the screw through all the way, then re-plunge & start the router & un-screw. The bit will cut just as well going 'backwards', and the pitch won't alter, so if you've got the bit set correctly this time, you will now have a perfect screw thread. An even better solution, of course, is to make a new jig, which I will do before I make any more 3/4" handscrews.....
Cheers,IW
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26th May 2018, 06:17 PM #42
He's at it again!
For those of you who missed it, Ian has an article in the latest issue of "Australian Wood Review." (Issue No 99)
It is a reasonably detailed step by step account of how to build an infill plane. In this case it is a very appealing shoulder plane. Well worth the read and I know it works well 'cos I tried it a while back. I think another couple of reads and I will have the confidence to buy the materials .
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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26th May 2018, 07:20 PM #43
Don't wait too long, Paul, the price of brass seems to go up monthly! The last lot I bought (about 3 weeks ago) was about 15% or possibly more over what I paid for the materials for the plane in the article, so what I said is already out of date.
I went over the proofs for the article carefully (so I thought) but when I glanced through it in the magazine, I found a couple of mistakes I didn't pick up. One may make you chuckle - Near the end I mention it can take shavings of 0.01", which is 10 thou, & hardly impressive. But I assure you it can do one thou shavings, as shown on the calipers in the accompanying pic! I checked my Ms, & the mistake is mine, not theirs....
If anyone is encouraged to give one of these planes a go (& I hope there are at least a few!), there may be some questions or comments arising so fire away or contact me if you wish. I was under pressure to keep the word count to a certain figure, &there are some things I would like to have used a few more words on.
In the article, I said I didn't bother with any sort of adjuster. Well, that's not strictly true. I had certainly intended to keep it simple, but I was challenged by a couple of people to fit an adjuster, so I did: 3_4 inch SP b.jpg
You need to back off wedge pressure for the adjuster to work, so I also added a pressure screw that presses on the middle of the wedge (that's the knob sticking out at the top). This is a definite advantage, it means you never have to wallop the back of the plane to loosen the blade.
It looks the part, & works well enough, but I stick by my statement that a screw adjuster has limited value on this type of pane. The disc that engages the slot in the blade tends to slew the blade left or right (depending on whether you're advancing or backing off), so it takes some getting used to. Hammer adjusting works fine too, once you get used to it...
Cheers,IW
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26th May 2018, 08:27 PM #44
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26th May 2018, 09:21 PM #45
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