Thread: IanW in print again

Well,
I brought my copy today.
Ian I went straight to your article.
And at a later date will be following your article to the letter well you know pretty close well nearly close.[emoji849]
Looks like a really fun weekend project.
And I’ve been wanting to try this hand plane building thing for a very long time.

Cheers Matt

Good-o Matt, you're the first one to say they're actually going to have a crack at it. Of anyone I know on this forum, you should be the one to find it easy - peening a few rivets will be a doddle for you......

I think I said this in the article, but it's quite ok to simply solder the body together if you still have some old 60/40 lead/tin solder and know your way around soldering. I soldered the body for my very first SP, a hefty 1.25" wide job & used no rivets. That was well over 30 years ago & it's still tight & solid, despite falling on a concrete floor on one forgettable occasion. . One reason I've switched to riveting is because I haven't mastered the new lead-free solders, I can't get them to flow the way the lead solders do, and if cooled too quickly, the solder becomes very brittle. I've had a couple of experiences of joints letting go, which is why I took to the idea of riveting when I saw Peter McBride doing it on a small plane he was making. Riveting is pretty well fool-proof, and provided you squash them into the bevels well & don't have too many mis-hits, can produce a very neat result.

Cheers,

Originally Posted by IanW

Good-o Matt, you're the first one to say they're actually going to have a crack at it. Of anyone I know on this forum, you should be the one to find it easy - peening a few rivets will be a doddle for you......

O-Ian
I will definitely love to have a crack at it, might even try some fancy file work on it[emoji41].
Moan alert it’s just I’m very time poor at present. I’m conscious off being put on this metal pedestal, I may fall off and bump me head[emoji849] one day.
I’m already falling out of favour in the saw making section with my big mouth.

With regard to the rivets, now I’m going to be blond(which I’m natural blonde but with none left lol)
I assume the rivets pass all the way from one side to the other, possible my first wrong assumption.
And my second question if they pass through and extend 1.5 mm either side for peening.
If your peening one side how do you deal with the other side at the same time.
Or are they just peened into blind holes from either side.
See I think I’ve fallen and bump me head already.

Cheers Matt

Originally Posted by Simplicity

.....With regard to the rivets, now I’m going to be blond(which I’m natural blonde but with none left lol)
I assume the rivets pass all the way from one side to the other, possible my first wrong assumption.
And my second question if they pass through and extend 1.5 mm either side for peening.
If your peening one side how do you deal with the other side at the same time.
Or are they just peened into blind holes from either side.
See I think I’ve fallen and bump me head already....

Matt, rivets go all the way through & extend about 1.5mm on each side, correct. When peening, lay the plane on a nice, flat chunk of steel, like an anvil, if you have one, if not, a chunk of rail line or some other bulky & reasonably flat chunk of scrap you happen to have kicking about. Peen all the rivets a bit, then tap them down and flip. Peen them a bit on the other side, then flip again & repeat, trying to keep the projection even. [edit: by this I mean the rivets will move back & forth as you flip the plane, at first, but after a couple of peenings on each side, you'll find they start to stay put - just keep an eye on the amount of projection each side & try to keep it as even as you can.]

If the rivets are tight in the drill-hole to start with, it's pretty easy, but the brass I buy varies a bit, so sometimes they are very loose to start with, & it takes more flipping to get them spreading evenly, but the peening soon tightens them up a bit & once you get them staying put & spreading nicely on both sides, it's plain sailing. The main thing is to coax the metal down thoroughly into the counter-sink bevels. Don't make the bevels too wide or deep or the rivets will start flaking & splitting before you get the bevels properly filled. Practice setting a few rivets in some scrap & file & sand them off when you think you've got them right, to check if you have. They should completely disappear, with no gaps. You'll soon get the hang of it.....

Cheers,
Ian

Ian,
One more question [emoji849].
Just re read your article again,what jewellers saw saw blades do you use for cutting the brass.

Cheers Matt

Hi Matt - I use mostly #4 size - that's just a straight 4, not 4/0 which is much finer & meant for thinner material. The 4s have 38tpi and are recommended for cutting 10 gauge material, which is a teeny bit thicker than the 1/8th plate for the sides. A hacksaw is better for the straight cuts on the thick core pieces, but they do leave a messy surface that takes a fair bit of cleaning up. But you like filing....

You can buy decent blades from several places, Australian Jewellers Supplies and Gemcuts are two places that sell good quality Swiss blades.

If you haven't used these saws much, you'll probably go through 1/2 a dozen blades on your first side, but after that, you'll get the hang of them & not break so many.....

Cheers,

Originally Posted by IanW

Hi Matt - I use mostly #4 size - that's just a straight 4, not 4/0 which is much finer & meant for thinner material. The 4s have 38tpi and are recommended for cutting 10 gauge material, which is a teeny bit thicker than the 1/8th plate for the sides. A hacksaw is better for the straight cuts on the thick core pieces, but they do leave a messy surface that takes a fair bit of cleaning up. But you like filing....

You can buy decent blades from several places, Australian Jewellers Supplies and Gemcuts are two places that sell good quality Swiss blades.

If you haven't used these saws much, you'll probably go through 1/2 a dozen blades on your first side, but after that, you'll get the hang of them & not break so many.....

Cheers,

Thanks Ian,
Much appreciated.

Cheers the Filler [emoji6]