Thread: Can anyone identify this block plane?

My first block looks a bit like that. Six bucks at the local hardware bargain bin. Was a few years ago. Anyhow it surprised me by working really well. Think it was made in China.
As to the blade. Cant you just grind a new bevel?
Regards
John

Does look a bit like a Stanley 110, but quite different from my (English) Stanley, which I bought new 60 years ago, & that lever-cap & wheel is not like any Stanley I've seen, so it looks like a no-name.

As John says, just grind a bit off the new blade til it fits comfortably (but off the side, not the bevel??). I've had to do that with a new blade for my old 5 1/2, which was made for a 2 1/4" blade. They changed to 2 3/8" in the late 1930s, which is too tight for comfortable lateral adjustment in my old girl. If you grind carefully, there's no danger to the blade, & if you make a crude jig, you can get the side neat & straight...

Cheers,

Great suggestion Ian. I've got it wrapped at the moment, I'll take them to the bench grinder and see if I can straighten them out.

The trick with grinding blades is not to let them get hot. Keep some water handy to dunk in at frequent intervals. Dont ware gloves as fingers will soon let you know how the temp is going.
Regards
John

Do you use a straight edge at regular intervals to check the square?

If you are grinding down the side so the blade will fit I would first draw/scribe a line as a guide and not go past it or you could make a jig like IW suggested. The last bit to remove the rough ground edge can be done on sandpaper stuck down to something flat. Sanding belts are good for this.
Depending the size of the chip on the old blade it may be less work to just grind that out. A square to check is a good idea when regrinding a bevel.
Regards
John

Judging from the color it may be a Strong Boy plane. These planes were made in Germany and sold in the US (and probably in Australia too). From what I found the maker of these planes was the German company Tillmanns & Maier in Velbert/Rhineland:
Hobel und anderes: Jordan/Germany oder der Missing Link
Deutsche Werkzeughersteller und -händler: Tillmanns & Maier, Velbert


Wolfgang

Originally Posted by orraloon

The trick with grinding blades is not to let them get hot. Keep some water handy to dunk in at frequent intervals. Dont ware gloves as fingers will soon let you know how the temp is going.
Regards
John

John

That is good advice to prevent overheating the blade.

There is another very good reason not to wear gloves when using a bench grinder at any time. It is that if, in a careless moment, the glove contacts the wheel you hand can be drawn easily into the wheel either between the rest and the wheel (if it has become too large and not been adjusted) or down the side of the wheel into guard: Both are potentially nasty. Without gloves , contacting the wheel results in a small loss of skin, a lot of lost pride and causes you to back off sharply crying "&*$#, I won't do that again," but at least all your digits are still fundamentally intact.

I know it is very tempting to use gloves and particularly with small pieces that get hot quickly. Try to resist. A pair of vice grips or similar can sometimes get you out of the heat zone.

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by orraloon

If you are grinding down the side so the blade will fit I would first draw/scribe a line as a guide and not go past it or you could make a jig like IW suggested. The last bit to remove the rough ground edge can be done on sandpaper stuck down to something flat. Sanding belts are good for this.
Depending the size of the chip on the old blade it may be less work to just grind that out. A square to check is a good idea when regrinding a bevel.
Regards
John

Great advice. I'm going to give this a go this weekend.