Thread: "japanese" mortise chisels on ebay

Hi Daniel

Those are firmer, not mortices chisels.

regards from Perth

Derek

Hi Derek

How so? What is the difference between the two? (excuse my ignorance)

I have a japanese mortise chisel (well so I'm told) that looks very similar is size

Derek, do you recognise the maker?
Cheers,
Jim

Hi Daniel

The auction chisels are simply straight-sided, heavy duty bench chisels. They are thicker that the average bevel-edge chisel, but not as thick as a true mortice chisel. They may be used for morticing - just about any chisel can - but are not designed for levering out waste. A true Mortice chisel - both Western and Japanese - is deeper/thicker by a factor of two or more. It is also unusual to find a mortice chisel wider than 1/2".



Link: Mortise chisel by Yamahiro | Other chisels | Wood working tool, Japanese wood working tool shop

regards from Perth

Derek

Hi Jim

No chance .. My Japanese is as good as my Swahili. Actually, my Swahili is better!

Writing from a wintery Cape Town

Derek

Originally Posted by derekcohen

Hi Jim

No chance .. My Japanese is as good as my Swahili. Actually, my Swahili is better!

Writing from a wintery Cape Town

Derek

Thanks Derek, just wondered if it rang a bell. Any interesting tools turn up?
Enjoy the trip.
Cheers,
Jim

Another question Derek, are your chisels hollow ground across the width of the primary bevel?
Cheers,
Jim

Hi Jim

I fully hollow grind non-laminated chisels. In other words, hollow grind all but Japanese chisels, which are flat ground. I never use a secondary bevel as the angle is difficult (for me) to replicate. My view is that it is easier to sharpen something for the first time, but what counts is to be able to re-sharpen it as easily after this.

The Tormek has a big advantage over dry grinders insofar that grinding is cool, and then one can grind to the edge of he primary bevel. My preference is to freehand on the hollow, which acts as a jig. If one prefers a honing guide, then you end up with a secondary bevel, and hollow grinding is unnecessary. For a secondary bevel a belt sander would be a good option for the primary bevel.

Hollow grind and freehanded hone on a Veritas ...



Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by derekcohen

Hi Jim

I fully hollow grind non-laminated chisels. In other words, hollow grind all but Japanese chisels, which are flat ground. I never use a secondary bevel as the angle is difficult (for me) to replicate. My view is that it is easier to sharpen something for the first time, but what counts is to be able to re-sharpen it as easily after this.

The Tormek has a big advantage over dry grinders insofar that grinding is cool, and then one can grind to the edge of he primary bevel. My preference is to freehand on the hollow, which acts as a jig. If one prefers a honing guide, then you end up with a secondary bevel, and hollow grinding is unnecessary. For a secondary bevel a belt sander would be a good option for the primary bevel.

Hollow grind and freehanded hone on a Veritas ...

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks Derek, it was the shape of the secondary bevel that made me ask if it had been ground at right-angles to the normal fashion, the way it had more metal taken off the sides of the chisel.
Cheers,
Jim

Originally Posted by jimbur

Thanks Derek, it was the shape of the secondary bevel that made me ask if it had been ground at right-angles to the normal fashion, the way it had more metal taken off the sides of the chisel.
Cheers,
Jim

Hi Jim

Are you referring to the chisels in the auction and/or above? If so, the Japanese chisels do not have a secondary bevel. What is seen in the images is the brighter steel of the hard cutting layer.

In a traditional mortice chisel, such as the Oval Bolstered types, it is usual to create a 20 degree primary bevel, and then add a 30-35 degree secondary bevel.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Just displayed another patch of ignorance Thanks for the information and must always look more closely before speaking.
cheers,
Jim