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Thread: Japanning again

  1. #1
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    Default Japanning again

    I’m repairing a plane that was severely damaged in a fire and so I’ve been reading about japanning methods. It seems that there are many methods available varying from the traditional asphaltum in varnish through to all manner of modern spray paints. None of the modern methods seem to achieve the hardness of the traditional coating.
    So I figure, why not look at this question from a paint maker's perspective (given that’s what I’ve done for a lot of my working life). I am assuming the Stanley Tool Company had no inkling that their planes would be loved for generations and revered as heirlooms. They were simply making a tool so the japanning was just a functional/protective coating. As such it needed to be cheap, easy to apply and provide the required protection. So they used a varnish of sorts and a black pigment. These were the common raw materials of the day. There was nothing particularly special about the coating, it was just what was available easily.
    So, if we were making paint from scratch what would the technical requirements be?
    · Black – close in colour to the traditional coating
    · Hard and damage resistant
    · Applied by either spray or brush
    · Single pack coating – none of this mixing part A and B stuff

    I’m thinking that I could work up something that met these requirements using more 20th century technology. I still like the idea of a bake schedule because that gives the latitude of using some chemistry that develops nice hardness at temperature.
    What are your thoughts on the coating requirements? How practical does a bake schedule sound (I’m thinking 10 minutes or so at around 120°C).

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  3. #2
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Peter57 View Post
    [..So, if we were making paint from scratch what would the technical requirements be
    · Black – close in colour to the traditional coating
    · Hard and damage resistant
    · Applied by either spray or brush
    · Single pack coating – none of this mixing part A and B stuff

    [......What are your thoughts on the coating requirements? How practical does a bake schedule sound (I’m thinking 10 minutes or so at around 120°C).
    That all sounds pretty good to me. As long as it's affordable!

    And a 10 minute bake at 120 should be very safe for any cast iron object (with all wood & plastic bits removed, of course!).
    Cheers,
    IW

  4. #3
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    Sounds like a bit of fun. Will this be something we might be able to mix up on the bench?
    Instagram: mark_aylward
    www.solidwoodfurniture.com.au


    A good edge takes a little sweat!!

  5. #4
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    Post Don't try this at home

    I doubt that it will be something you can make at home. I'm mostly trying to work it out as a technical challenge. I've got an idea for a system that should be pretty hard air dried but will go rock hard if baked. But I think I'll use a normal black pigment rather than asphaltum.

    I have no plans to sell it. Just want to figure out a better answer than spray pack enamel.

  6. #5
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    Please continue then Pete, you have my attention for one.
    Instagram: mark_aylward
    www.solidwoodfurniture.com.au


    A good edge takes a little sweat!!

  7. #6
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    I'm interested to see what you come up with, and how it looks and wears. IMHO it needs to look a little "off-black" (the bright shiney black doesn't quite do it for me); and it needs to be hard wearing, without chipping off easily. If you get a good result, and if it can't be mixed at home...
    Quote Originally Posted by Peter57 View Post
    I have no plans to sell it...
    ...you may have to change your mind .

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

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