Thread: Japanning replacement

G'day Wondai,

Thanks for sharing.

My only previous experience for metal was Wattyl's Killrust system (http://www.wattyl.com.au/DIY/Pages/killrust.aspx). I have used it with excellent results restoring old metal planes and vices.

This is a great alternative. If it can stand up to battery acid, it will stand up for almost any woodworking tasks.

I am going to restore some outdoor lamps, a lamp posts, a cast iron chair frame and wrought iron plant stand, all of which are going to be exposed to the elements. I might give this a try before the final coat.

Cheers mate,

GUNN

I have used it on an old low knob Stanley No. 7. It gives a realistic finish that looks good. A big positive is that it sets so hard that it will withstand almost any knock or blow without being damaged.

I have found two minor downsides - the first is that it is slightly affected by ultra violet light. I also used it on restoration of a wrought iron garden bench. The finish does not break down but it does fade slightly. So for outdoor applications a final traditional finish would help long term appearance.

The second downside is that if any paint is on the lid it is impossible to open. So I did as recommended and covered the tin each time with gladwrap before putting the lid on.

Peter

I have used POR-15 for over a decade. It is superb for restoring rusty panels on cars. "POR" stands for "paint over rust".

I would not use it for tools. Firstly you will never get it off, and you will never get it off you if you do! Beware!!

Secondly, you cannot recoat it. Additional coats do not grip.

Thirdly, it is UV sensitive and will turn brown over time.

Why not make proper japanning? Here is a simple recipe that is foolproof ... mix marine varnish and asphaltum.. leave it to dry in the sun ... let it stand for two weeks. Done.

Regards from Perth

Derek

I agree with Derek, leave POR to car builders/restorers. It's a fantastic chassis black, but is not ideal for plane restoration.

The traditional method of applying Japan Black was to mix pitch (asphalt) with linseed oil, copal varnish (not too much or the finish will be too hard and chip easily) and turpentine. As Derek says, leaving it to dry in the sun was the first stage, but once touch dry, it should be baked in an oven at 350C-400C to permanently fix it.

Originally Posted by Woodwould

I agree with Derek, leave POR to car builders/restorers. It's a fantastic chassis black, but is not ideal for plane restoration.

The traditional method of applying Japan Black was to mix pitch (asphalt) with linseed oil, copal varnish (not too much or the finish will be too hard and chip easily) and turpentine. As Derek says, leaving it to dry in the sun was the first stage, but once touch dry, it should be baked in an oven at 350C-400C to permanently fix it.

I use a similar recipe and bake it in the oven ,the results are great and looks nice .Its a hard tough finish with a nice gloss to it.

Kev.

Originally Posted by Woodlee

I use a similar recipe and bake it in the oven ,the results are great and looks nice .Its a hard tough finish with a nice gloss to it.

Kev.

Me to - the recipe and technique are described in this thread

Thanks for the info guys. Seems like the traditional way is the best.

Originally Posted by Wongdai

Thanks for the info guys. Seems like the traditional way is the best.

Very true Wongdai. BTW the asphaltum I got from an art supplies store in Perth (Andersons?)

PS Not Andersons, Jacksons. 1 pound for $9.75