Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 8 of 8
Thread: lapping a plane sole
-
8th October 2008, 09:33 PM #1Senior Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
- Location
- Canberra
- Posts
- 195
lapping a plane sole
Hi all,
I've seen references here and there to 'machining' a plane sole flat, and I was hoping someone might be able to explain who to go to and what to ask them to do (e.g what machine do they use, what precautions should I ask them to take, what might it cost etc)
I've recently restored a 4 1/2 to a state that I am really proud of, but it has some rust pitting on one side (special thanks to the ebay seller who only photographed the good side).
If it could be removed the plane would be almost in as new condition. I've tried lapping, but I don't think this method is going to work - it took me about an hour just to cut through the top layer of rust, I'd estimate 4-5 hours to get all the pits out.
Also, is there any way to remove the nickel plating from the lever cap? At the moment its got about 20% plating remaining, and I'd like to remove it all and polish the metal underneath, it would look heaps better. Scotch brite, sharp knife and citric acid have all failed me so far.....
-
8th October 2008 09:33 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
8th October 2008, 09:52 PM #2
To lap the sole of a plane , a surface grinder would be the best machine , but you can do it at home your self with a long strip of sand paper and a glass plate .
To remove the flaky nickel plating on the lever cap I used a wire brush set up on my 8" grinder ,its not very thick an should come off with a bit of persistence.
I just polished mine to a nice finish using polishing wheels on my 8" grinder.
Kev."Outside of a dog a book is man's best friend ,inside a dog it's too dark to read"
Groucho Marx
-
8th October 2008, 09:53 PM #3
There are several alternatives:
1. Seek an old-time machine shop with a manual mill and/or surface grinder and have the side milled square to the sole with a face mill, end mill or fly cutter.
2. Better: have the plane Blanchard ground (blanchard=name of the kind of machine that first performed this kind of grinding). This will leave you with a square and true sole for a little while. The body will move after machining to some degree, just the nature of the beast.
3. Ensure that the frog, blade and cap are installed and tight. There's no point in machining the body true unless it is stressed by tight fasteners holding everything in place as per normal.
4. All of this will cost more than a good plane on eBay.
5. Are you sure that you are being aggressive enough with your lapping? If need be you can start with a coarse file, or 40 grit paper on glass. You should be able to get down past the pits in less than an hour. Afterward it is straight forward grunt work checking frequently with a square as you progress. Hopefully you will arrive at the three conditions of flat, square, and polished all at the same time.
6. Been there, done that. Good luck.Last edited by Greg Q; 8th October 2008 at 09:55 PM. Reason: 'manual' as opposed to cnc added to first line. clarity
-
8th October 2008, 09:58 PM #4
oh yeah, the plating: as Woodlee said, or investigate reverse plating (involves electrodes and possible toxic waste...fun!). I just peeled my plating off, then finished with the wire wheel too, then polishing.
There should be elctroplaters that might re-do it for you as part of a batch for small money.
Also: Holy moley, nice work so far on the restoration. You should be proud.Last edited by Greg Q; 8th October 2008 at 10:00 PM. Reason: compliment added
-
8th October 2008, 10:12 PM #5Senior Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
- Location
- Canberra
- Posts
- 195
Thanks all, some good tips there. If the machining is going to cost a lot, the 40 grit sandpaper might be the best option. Boy my arms are sore just thinking about it!!!!
I bought a steel wire brush for my bench grinder last weekend, but haven't tried it on the lever cap yet, I tested it but found it too aggressive, it left the metal surface with deep scratches. I'll experiment a bit and see how it goes. I guess if it stuffs up, I can always fork out for a new lever cap.
The restoration has gone really well, but I did cheat a bit by buying a hock blade and cap iron gee it works so well, I LOVE the weight of the 4 1/2. I really can't see myself getting much use out of my 4 and 5 from now on.
-
10th October 2008, 12:00 PM #6
Hi, I've recently bought a Stanley No.4 on Trademe (NZ's E-bay) which has over 90% of the lever cap plating (nickel or chrome?) missing. I'm considing having it re-plated. Has anyone had experience doing this? Does it need to be dismantled (i.e. knock out the pin to remove the cam lever, and drill out the rivet to remove the spring plate) or can it be done while still assembled, without seizing up the mechanism?
-
12th October 2008, 09:09 PM #7Senior Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
- Location
- Canberra
- Posts
- 195
I can't advise on this, but second hand ones cost about $18 here in Aus (plus postage).
My cap came up okay once I polished the steel that had once been covered by the plating, you have to look twice to notice that most of the plating is gone (see photo above, ignore the thumb prints on the cap iron)
I tried a wire wheel sandpaper etc to remove the remaining plating, but it is firmly in place.
One issue you may have with re-plating is the old coating areas will show up under the new plating.
-
15th October 2008, 10:43 PM #8
There are kits available here in Oz to do chrome plating at home ,Last time I looked at this kit it was around $500.00 to set up ,but you can do a lot of small jobs ,even chrome plate aluminium and its alloys.
Bit expensive for a one off job , but you could cut your costs by offering a chrome plating service to other hand tool ,motorcycle and old car fanatics.
http://australia.caswellplating.com/
There was a guy in Perth that was doing plating kits but his web link no longer works
www.eplate.com.au
Kev."Outside of a dog a book is man's best friend ,inside a dog it's too dark to read"
Groucho Marx
Similar Threads
-
lapping plane sole - question
By Moo73 in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWEREDReplies: 3Last Post: 4th October 2008, 04:44 PM -
Lapping the sole!
By Shedhand in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWEREDReplies: 2Last Post: 3rd February 2006, 09:55 AM -
Question re flattening plane sole
By JTonks in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWEREDReplies: 9Last Post: 27th June 2005, 10:39 PM -
Resin buildup on plane sole.
By woodrat in forum TIMBERReplies: 1Last Post: 15th February 2004, 11:04 AM -
Which wax for plane sole?
By Ben from Vic. in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWEREDReplies: 6Last Post: 3rd February 2004, 08:57 PM