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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    752

    Default Looking for feedback on my dovetails

    Over the past two days I've been working on the dovetails on my Wax Melter Project. I haven't had to use dovetails for about 9 months and am using new toys I've acquired in that time, including saw and bench.

    I'm interested in any feedback from people on my technique, design, planing, prevention of errors, anything. The rest of the WIP is on my blog.



    The twin leg vice combination truly excels at this task. It securely holds edge side the entire length of the vice. (I did notice some flex in the middle of the pine board which required stablisation with my left hand.)



    A 2cm tail is marked every 5cm. I used the Vertias 1:6 dovetail marker, a mechanical pencil, vertias wheel gauge, and a 1m rule to achieve this. You'll note that both sides are in the vice allowing me to cut tails on both boards at once speeding production.



    This is the first time I've been able to test my new Wenzloff & Sons Dovetail saw. A nice tool to handle and quick to use.





    Both sides complete.



    Using eclipse blades in a stanley coping saw I removed the bulk of the waste.



    I then cleared up to the waste with a chisel. I used the cut tails and a vesper marking knife to layout the pins on the corresponding board. The pins were cut using the same above technique.





    One side complete. Three to go.



    I do have to show some errors though. (Fortunately this project is to be painted so the final product will not be effected.)



    You can see the rabbet for the base board. Ideally this would be a stopped rabbet or mitred so it cannot be scene. I'm intested in about others would get around this project.



    In some of my earlier chiseling my chisel wasn't sharp enough and I had some resulting blow out and damage to the surface some of which will need some putty filler.
    My blog: ~ for the love of wood ~ - http://theloveofwood.blogspot.com/

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Lambton, Newcastle, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    4,957

    Default

    Hi Dan
    All looks good to me, my only tips are practice, practice, practice, its the only way to treat dovetails. I only use a marking knife on all my woodwork, never pencils( not for any final cuts). Then make sure (even if you use a magnifying glass to check) cut the line/knife cut in half. When you copy to your pins make sure you are holding your knife dead square/vertical etc. And yes scarie sharp chisels especialy if you are working with soft tearout timber. Its realy practice and extreme accuracy. One last tip (once you have had a little practice) is don't do a test fit, cut your joint, clean it out, put your glue in and then hammer it together with a steel hammer. The first fit is always the best.
    I got all these tips from Alan Peters, Rob Cosman and Tage Frid. Some from each. Alan Peters was, "don't be gutless cut ON the line". Its harder to cut off the line thinking you can clean it up later with the chisel. I can recomend Rob Cosmans dovetail video/dvd, very practical. I have one on Tage Frid too, he also gives the joint a good hammering to flatten the timber fibres and fill the joint.
    Good luck - nar good practice.
    Instagram: mark_aylward
    www.solidwoodfurniture.com.au


    A good edge takes a little sweat!!

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