Best method for japanning

**snafuspyramid** · 8th April 2013, 11:19 PM

If you are a collector, don't read this. You will go to bed sad. It involves the words "rare", "plane" and "paint stripper". Don't say I didn't warn you.

I've finally got around to fixing up my Stanley Sweetheart #278 moving fillester (rebate) plane. It's got all the correct parts including the original fence.

This was given to me as a gift. It's in very bad shape after fifty years in the tropics - rusty as hell. It's cleaned up quite nicely though, so far (citric acid, a toothbrush and Autosol).

About 30% japanning remained. However, I noticed that there was a good deal of active rust underneath the japan, so I stripped it all (horror!

), hence wiping several hundred dollars from its resale value and giving generations of collectors reason to mourn. C'est la vie. I also lapped the sole and side a little (to add to the carnage).

However, this plane was given to me as a gift to fix up and use for the next fifty years (yes that's how many I should have left in me), not to clean and immediately resell to a collector to buy a Veritas, and I have better things to do with my time in those decades than constantly remove rust from all those awful little nooks and crannies. This plane will be a user, so it has to be functional. Nothing repels rust like paint. Hell, I'd enamel my chisels if that even made sense.

However, as I was reaching into the cupboard for my trusty can of semi-gloss black epoxy engine enamel, it occurred to me that perhaps I ought to do something to atone for this terrible sin I have committed against future generations of hand-tool lovers (or humanity generally).

So I started looking for japanning recipes that are more appropriate to the original finish of the plane. Old japanning has a slightly transclucent quality with a brownish tinge, whereas engine enamel is a perfectly solid black.

While I'm not willing to do anything involving a household oven and toxic chemicals (well, to be honest, it's not me that's unwilling), I very much like Derek's suggestion of using equal parts spar varnish and asphaltum (powder?).

I'm having trouble sourcing the asphaltum powder, however.

Has anyone used Derek's recipe? Where can I find the powder? Is there any other way I can create a somewhat more authentic japanned finish without gassing myself or blowing up my house?

**hiroller** · 8th April 2013, 11:43 PM

Jacksons in WA carry some.
MISC. - Jacksons Drawing Supplies Online Store
Was thinking of trying out out on an old user as well.

**Pac man** · 8th April 2013, 11:56 PM

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f152/d...anning-109892/

**Pac man** · 9th April 2013, 12:14 AM

I have seen the feast watson proof tint added to u beaut hard shellac being used with good result.

Please dont inhale the lump asphaltum as its not good for you.

**snafuspyramid** · 9th April 2013, 09:37 AM

Thanks for the link, I found some at Jackson's.

Apparently the stuff isn't carcinogenic in itself: Asphaltum MSDS

But it is often contaminated with all sorts of heavy metals (yay).

Anyway, I will purchase a decent respirator, some of this asphaltum stuff and some spar varnish and report back.

EDIT: Why spar varnish specifically? I want some for my workbench anyway, where its flexibility is advantage because of the relatively high movement of the construction grade (i.e. wet) lumber. But why use it for planes?

EDIT: Also, how "authentic" is this compared to the original Stanley japan? I gather that "Japan" is just asphaltum dissolved in turpentine, together with some linseed oil, "cooked" to produce a varnish. Spar varnish is just a synthetic replacement for that varnish and is chemically very similar. Is that right?

**Pac man** · 9th April 2013, 10:58 AM

Will Jacksons transport it to you given its flammability

**Acolyte** · 9th April 2013, 01:06 PM

I managed to obtain some from Jackson's a few years ago with the intention of doing some japanning, but haven't got around to it yet. If you have any issues getting it I'm happy to give you some - I bought a 1lb jar and you don't need much (a teaspoon?) to do the average plane).

cheers

Acolyte

**snafuspyramid** · 11th April 2013, 07:31 PM

Alrighty so I've got me some asphaltum.

What next, spar varnish or BLO/shellac bake? I want to restore it to the condition it was in when new, allowing for wear and tear.

Which would be chemically and aesthetically more authentic?

**pmcgee** · 11th April 2013, 09:45 PM

Originally Posted by snafuspyramid

chemically ... authentic

*Now* you're talkin'

**NCArcher** · 11th April 2013, 10:09 PM

I'll be interested to see how this turns out Eddie.
Why not do both and do a comparison? I'm pretty sure you have a plane or two that could do with a spruce up.

Oh and we need photos.

**yojimbo** · 11th April 2013, 11:35 PM

Originally Posted by NCArcher

Why not do both and do a comparison? I'm pretty sure you have a plane or two that could do with a spruce up.

Now that's a capital idea.

**Dengue** · 11th April 2013, 11:45 PM

I am nearly at the stage you are, just waiting delivery of the tin of asphaltum. How did you remove the original japanning?

**FenceFurniture** · 12th April 2013, 10:02 AM

Good thread, and has given me an idea. Given that I'm keeping my planes as users, and don't really care how authentic they are, I might experiment with a BLO bake. I've got an old crapper that would be perfect for a test. Reckon the BLO bake would look pretty good.

Question though: I wonder if the baking could introduce some warping? Probably not, but worth asking.

**Berlin** · 12th April 2013, 04:46 PM

Linseed oil cures rather than dries, what's the benefit of the baking? Does it activate the asphaltum or something?

FWIW In oil painting (which is primarily linseed oil) real asphaltum is a notoriously bad colour, causing the paint to wrinkle and crack and the translucent brown-black is achieved with a mix of tougher pigments.

**FenceFurniture** · 12th April 2013, 05:04 PM

Just the looks man, just the looks. Oh yeah, and rust proofing. I think that colour on a plane body would look very nice indeed.

Thread: Best method for japanning

Thread Tools

Search Thread