Thread: Molding planes

Are you talking specifically about hollows and rounds?

Originally Posted by section1

I realised something today when I was using a molding plane and that's the depth of cut is determined by the amount of protrusion of the blade, so the less the blade is protruding the quicker it will bottom out and the more it's protruding the deeper the cut will be. So why is that?

no but profiled moldings

why is it so ??

I don't have a clue!! Your going to have to explain it a bit better S1

Contemplate this I bet Julius could help here .

Originally Posted by section1

I realised something today when I was using a molding plane and that's the depth of cut is determined by the amount of protrusion of the blade, so the less the blade is protruding the quicker it will bottom out and the more it's protruding the deeper the cut will be. So why is that?

Moulding planes cut to a specific depth and stop cutting as a result of a built-in depth stop, and not because of the depth of the blade.

There is a raised section of the body that eventually stops the blade cutting deeper ..



This is not a feature of hollows and rounds, only beading planes and complex moulding planes.

Regards from Perth

Derek

If it's a complex moulder, you may have some parts of your iron that are not sharpened evenly with the profile. If the cut is lessened they may not be cutting, which would act as an unintended depth stop.

auscab

......and one and a half glass of milk

yvan

Originally Posted by section1

I realised something today when I was using a molding plane and that's the depth of cut is determined by the amount of protrusion of the blade, so the less the blade is protruding the quicker it will bottom out and the more it's protruding the deeper the cut will be. So why is that?

yep ! thats what I realise every now an again too. Finally, I've found someone who gets me.

I would have thought….
- the less the blade protrudes

• the slower the cut in the wood it forms which is-> bad….bad because if your've got a lot of moulding to do that must match up, a sharpen up midway, can mess with the joinery. Far better for the blade to hold up all the way through.
• a finer more polished finish is created -> good but not really as important as it sounds because only one tear is enough to stuff it.
• the harder it is with some profiled blades to sharpen so they match well to their soles. (can be painful imo) ie. you can get a good cut even if the sharpen up isn't perfectly the same as the sole if its sticking out heaps.

ie. Best results I get is to buff sharpen blades which will yield sharper results than stones…..set the blades as coarse as possible (so you get all the profiles done quickly before it bluntens) whilst retaining control and a good finish.

Sorry, just had to exercise me communication skills …despite the feeling that section1's question is a piiiiiisstake. Well, not sure. Maybe 90% chance. 80% ?