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  1. #16
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    Well, this has been a most interesting thread.

    Paul, you were clearly not alone in having a few problems with the Norris adjuster. I find it a little bit jerky, as I menbtioned, but I probably have most problems with lateral adjstment. I think that stems from slightly uneven presure across the width of the cap iron. The blade will tend to pivot at the point where pressure is greatest. You would need space-shuttle type accuraacy to ensure a perfectly even fit of the cap iron & equally perfect mating with the lever cap across the entire width, so a high spot or two is inevitable. The same principle ought to apply to Stanley/Record style planes, but I find lateral adjustment is easier with those. Perhaps it's because the adjustment is done with the blade under working pressure, and you don't have the problem of slight changes when re-aplying the lever cap pressure. It can be frustrating, and usually takes several attempts before I get the Norris right. Once it is set up properly, it does work well, but it makes me a bit hesitant to pull it down for sharpening, knowing I'll have a minor hassle getting it workng sweetly again.

    It's only been the last couple of years that I have had frequently-used planes without screw adjusters, & though I have seen lots of articles over the years, claiming that the 'tappety tap' method of blade adjustment is just as quick or quicker, I didn't believe it until I started doing it more regularly. I've evolved a slightly different method from yours - I replace the blade so that it is not protruding at all, then advance it with very light taps until it cuts a very fine feather one side or the other, a gentle tap for lateral adjustment, and usually one more to bring the whole blade evenly into play, and Bob's your auntie (well, about half the times that works, otherwise it's back-off & try again...).

    Cheers,
    IW

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
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    I have just been reading Jim Yehle's account of his making of a dovetailed smoother. He shares the same views as those made here about the adjuster and it's omission.

    His adjuster is interesting in that it provides a large bearing surface for shaft rotation within the traveller. The St James Bay adjuster has very little bearing surface at that junction. Whether there is discernible play when the StJB adjuster is installed is another thing. It would be simple to make a one piece traveller incorporating the features of Jim's and avoiding the complexity.

    Making a Dovetailed Infill Smoothing Plane - Jim Yehle

    And Derek, I would like to see your adjuster and hear your comments if you have the time.

    BT

  4. #18
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    For the engineer in you AB ...

    (Quoted from this page ... OldTools Archive -- thread with message 34259 )

    There is an interesting comment below "(Note that the Norris compound screw makes for a coarser adjustment, not a finer one as is sometimes believed.)"

    I understood that the Norris adjuster was a small LH threaded rod inserting into a larger RH threaded rod (or vice versa) - thus counter-acting the action of each other at different rates at each turn of the knob in order to produce a very fine adjustment.

    There is a problem that needs investigating here.

    - - - - - - - - - - - - -

    34489 Jeff Gorman <Jeff@m...> Jan-15-1998 RE: Stanley 604 vs. Norris A5

    Ray T Smith wrote:
    >
    > I hope Jeff is asleep this time around....maybe I can slip this
    > past him :^)

    Refusing to rise to bait point-by-point, 8-), might one respectfully
    suggest that those who wish critically to evaluate Ray's enthusiastic
    summary, look into the depths of the archives where I estimate that
    we have covered all his points (ad nauseam to some no doubt, with
    only one ad vitriol that I recall).

    Whazza 604 anyway? 8-).

    However, since lever caps, adjusters, friction and all that have been
    recent interesting topics, here's an previous posting from my store:

    "Given a long and strong enough lever and a suitable fulcrum, it is said one
    could lift any load. This is because the user's end can be made to
    move a greater distance than the load end. The ratio of the distances
    being known as the "velocity ratio" (ie the distance moved by the
    effort divided by the distance moved by the load). It plays a
    fundamental part in determining the efficiency of a machine.

    The blade-shifting system in engineering terms, is a machine. The
    distance moved by the effort is related to the diameter of the
    adjuster knob.

    I measured the increase in set by means of a dial gauge resting at
    right-angles to the sole of a 51 year old Stanley #4 smoother and a
    late production Norris smoother. The actual distance moved by the
    blade, measured along a 45 degree frog will be 1.4 times the actual set.

    (At Patrick Leach's instigation, a few of us discussed the bed angles
    of Norrises some time ago, and those who a responded showed that most
    have an angle, as near as makes not much difference, of 45 degrees,
    ie the same as a standard Stanley smoother, whatever some writers may
    say).

    The diameter of the Norris adjuster is about 22.5mm. Playing
    mathematicians tricks, one can say that the distance moved by the
    effort will be 22.5 x pi. One revolution of the Norris produces a set
    of approx 1mm. So the velocity ratio is 22.5 x pi/1 x 1.4 = 16pi. .

    The Stanley adjuster diameter is 31.7mm approx. One revolution of my
    Stanley #4 smoother adjuster knob, gives a projection of approx
    0.3mm.
    So the velocity ratio is 31.7 x pi/0.3 x 1.4 = 75.5pi.

    (Sorry about the metric, but my dial gauge has seen the light).

    So the velocity ratios, and hence the efficiency of the adjusters in
    overcoming friction will be 75.5pi/16pi = 4.7.

    (Note that the Norris compound screw makes for a coarser adjustment,
    not a finer one as is sometimes believed.)

    Of course one cannot fully quantify the difference between the
    adjusters of the two planes because the actual relative frictions
    between the frogs will not be known. However, the differences would
    have to be in the order of 4.7 to bring the effort to be the same. This
    would take some doing, so I reckon one could justifiably say that the feed
    on a Stanley is significantly easier to adjust than on a Norris. Anyway my
    fingers tell me so, so there! 8-). There are other factors, such as
    the ability to tweak the adjustment of a Stanley smoother while still
    retaining the grip on the tote.

    The weaker adjuster might explain why I and some infill users /have
    to/ ease the lever cap screw to adjust the blade, yet the Stanley/Record owner need not do so, and in fact until this discussion arose, I had never heard of a plane being adjusted with a cam-type lever cap released (and at one time I related to well over a hundred woodworkers).

    Now I understand why a one-presssure lever-cam is OK for the Stanley,
    but perhaps less suitable for the Norris. Of course, fine adjustment
    of the lever cap is easy with this type of plane, but is not
    accomodated by the design of a Bailey mechanism. Funnily enough UK
    Record are now producing planes with a screw-adjusted lever cap. I
    find it unsatisfyingly small in diameter.

    One snag with loosening the Norris lever cap for a preliminary
    adjustment is that if there is some give between the frog and the
    blade (or maybe for some other reason), tightening the screw can
    increase the set. In fact I was taught that this was the way to do
    the final setting on this type of plane, and while this has been
    confirmed by other users, it reportedly does not always work. It certainly does on my plane, and because this also upsets the lateral adjustment,
    this is one reason why I don't use it. (No, it isn't for sale. It will do
    as a photo prop sometime, 8-)).

    The mechanics of the lateral adjustment is also interesting. For
    homework, to the lateral adjustment systems, apply the principles
    outlined above, /assuming/ that the blade pivots about a point just
    behind the bevel."

    Then ask yourself whether the Stanley, having independent feed and
    lateral adjusters, is not a better-conceived design.

    Apologies if the layout of the re-post section comes out badly
    formatted at your ends.

    Jeff
    --
    Jeff Gorman - West Yorkshire
    Jeff@m...

  5. #19
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    Quoting from another good web page: The Norris story


    The Adjuster Shortcomings

    Although the Norris adjuster is without doubt an ingenious invention it is not without its problems and is considered by its critics to be not as positive or robust at the Leonard Bailey type adjuster in use as early as 1867 and still used on many makes of plane to this day. Apart from the “far too fast” observations the mechanism is easily damaged over time by rough handling with the lever cap set too tight whilst adjustments are made. On the double screw type this results in accelerated thread wear and bellmouthing to the internal threading on the main shaft.

    Various modifications have been tried, based on the Norris design all having advantages and disadvantages. Some adjusters have been made having a double screw but having two right hand threads or differing threads per inch. This results in a plus and minus combination known as differential threading and can be calculated to give a very fine adjustment indeed. However the combination of the two threads still result in backlash and the same bellmouth problems. Perhaps the best solution is a single thread of 40 threads per inch on the main shaft coupled with a superior bearing on the sleeve of the floating ring, together with the grub screw in the rotating hub which is mounted in the base plate with a shouldered bearing and a back nut to adjust the lateral friction. I am lucky enough to have a brother-in-law who made such an adjuster and the result is microptic with a minimum amount of backlash. However one minor problem remains when ultra fine adjustment is required. The problem is brought about by the need to slacken off the lever cap in order to set both depth and lateral adjustments allowing the cutting edge of the iron to lift slightly off its bed adjacent to the mouth. Setting the plane in this mode the subsequent tightening of the lever cap results in the iron bedding back down giving a slightly coarser set. This is unnoticed by most users but has been observed by those preferring to use the time honoured tapping method on planes without adjusters. It would seem appropriate to mention here that I have fitted these adjusters when re-building other makes of planes broken beyond normal restoration. This has produced two superb user planes that would otherwise have been scrapped.


  6. #20
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