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  1. #16
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    Mar 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    hi Ian, Derek and Luke

    I think that if you built chairs "all day every day" wearing out the blade on your travisher would be very low on your list of priorities.
    At that sort of volume, I'm sure you would be proficient with hollowing tools like a scorp, hollowing adze, etc and the travisher would be used much like a smoothing plane -- right at the end when only the final tool marks need to be removed.

    If I built chairs all day every day, I think I'd burn a few electrons to hog out the bulk of the waste, then clean it up with hand tools.

    As I understand it, you can use travishers for the whole process - a coarse-set one for for rapid waste removal and a less aggressive one for tidying up. Because the version we're discissing here is only 'adjustable' over a limited range, you'd probably keep two or three on the go, set up for the different tasks.

    I've tried quite a few methods of shaping chair seats over the years, finally settling on a scorp followed by my little double-radiused plane. If I had to start building lots of chairs again, I reckon I'd go for an inshave for the hogging-out (on the grounds that it should be quicker than a scorp). I'd really like to try a travisher to replace the plane, 'cos I think it looks a lot easier to manage....

    Cheers,
    IW

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
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    Perth
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    What I was attempting to explain - and please keep in mind that my actual use of the travisher is only minutes longer than yours - is that this is a tool with a single setting but multiple use. For those familiar with wooden spokeshaves, they will recognise that you can take a deep shaving simply by rolling the wrists back, and a fine shaving by rolling the wrists forward. The mouth rocks open and closed. The travisher is the same. Unlike a plane or a metal spokeshave - where one extends or closes down the blade - the adjustment for the cut lies in the wrists (well, actually it lies with the positioning of the mouth and blade, which it can do as the sole is curved). This enables one to take a heavy cut (hogging) and immediately follow it with a light cut (smoothing) ... without altering a setting. The difficulty one has with this tool is that it works counter to one's experience.

    Pete Gelbert explains all this much better ...




    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    back in Alberta for a while
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    12,006

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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    If I built chairs all day every day, I think I'd burn a few electrons to hog out the bulk of the waste, then clean it up with hand tools.
    agree,
    but I thought we were discussing hand (and body) powered tools

    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    As I understand it, you can use travishers for the whole process - a coarse-set one for for rapid waste removal and a less aggressive one for tidying up. Because the version we're discussing here is only 'adjustable' over a limited range, you'd probably keep two or three on the go, set up for the different tasks.
    true.
    my point was as that in a hand tool only production environment there are a number of tools that are much more efficient at hollowing a chair seat than a travisher. Of course, this comment assumes the maker has the appropriate skills. If you have ever seen a skilled carpenter scribe a cabinet to a wall using a hatchet you will know what I mean.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

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