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  1. #16
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    aha very good now I understand what you were getting at I will definitely try that tomorrow. I also just learned a new word "field" I was calling it a lip. I think that will work out perfectly I can't wait to give it a go.

    A thought just came to mind I won't be able to use the skewed rabbet plane because the angled fence most prbably won't match the angle created and the low angle block plane will not plane right up to the edge of the field.

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  3. #17
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    No offence taken here, either!

    Yep, there are probably several ways to do this, but what Ian suggests is how I'd go about it if doing it all by hand. Establish the field by planing a straight rebate, then plane the bevel. I would use a bench plane for defining the bevel, because there is no danger of the blade catching on the edge of the field. That leaves a little bit of unwanted wood which I clean up (carefully!) with a shoulder plane, but sandpaper wrapped very tightly around a square block would do almost as well.

    Skipping may be due to excessive set. A heavy set when roughing down gets the waste out of the way, then back off & take lighter shavings as you refine the finished product.

    Sounds like your learning curve is levelling out....

    Cheers,

    Edit - woops, didn't see your last post. Try the block plane - it will leave a small bit of wood beside the field, but it is not much, and you can deal with it after the bevel is defined as outlined above, either by careful freehand use of the rebate, or with the sandpaper & block method.
    IW

  4. #18
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    I've tried this method shown of creating rabbets and then planing them angled but it seems far too much work than the original way I did it, also due to carelessnes I knicked the field.

    When I was planing the rabbets across the grain the bottom and side walls were 90° to each other but along the edge they weren't. I took out the blade and reset it and faced the same problem again, I checked the fence and that's square so now I'm stumped with a new problem. The bottom of the rabbet angles down and the wall angles away from me.

  5. #19
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    Well another crisis dilemna solved it is evidently clear my self setting jig does not work and to be honest I'm not sure just how well those set screws will work either. I don't use this plane often and I've sharpened it once set it used it on a project and haven't picked it up since. I'm wondering what could of been the contributing factors to set it out of alignment. Could it be when I was adjusting the depth of cut and inadvertantly moved it sideways. who knows but according to the manual once the set screws are set the blade will always return to the same position.

  6. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by section1 View Post
    .... who knows but according to the manual once the set screws are set the blade will always return to the same position..
    Hmm, I don't think you can rely on those side screws to give you a perfect setting after taking the blade out. They help, for sure, but they cannot prevent the blade from slewing (if they did, the lateral adjuster would be rendered useless!). When you re-insert the blade after sharpening, there is enough slop & backlash in the best of setups to allow a small deviation. You would be exceedingly lucky to return the blade to a perfect alignment. So moral is, always check your blade alignment after you've replaced it!

    Cheers,
    IW

  7. #21
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    As I suspected do you know how difficult it is to align the blade parallel to the sole actually that part is easy but to make it protrude to the side 1000th of an inch or less whilst trying to keep it parallel to the sole. Believe me when I tell you this was not an easy task, makes me want to go out an buy the jack rabbet plane but who can afford that at almost $400 since Carba Tec's price rise. Maybe Tony abbott followed Carba tec's example.

    Anyway there has been many posts written about the skewed rabbet plane not making perfect 90° rabbets me including and the remedy was fix it with the shoulder plane, well let me tell you after setting this plane correctly for the first time I had rabbets that were perfect in every sense of the word. Still too much fart arsing around with this plane.

  8. #22
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    Hi Section

    looks like you have the process finally figured out.
    Despite what the advertising says, I've found that "specialist" planes like the skew rabbet, shoulder planes, rabbet planes, hollows and rounds need a certain amount of "driving" to get them to produce the result you want.

    what I suggested above, will work but as you discovered is a bit of work.
    if you work mostly by eye, after marking the depth of the raise and planing the rebate for the field, you can create most of the raise using a bench plane, switching to the specialist plane for the last bit.
    referring to what I've read, keeping the blade of a specialist plane sharp and the right shape was always a lot of work, especially so in the era before "smart" honing guides like the Veritas Mk2, so historically their use was limited to final shaping.

    I set the side projection of a skew rabbet (or shoulder) plane blade by feel.

    Derek's method of using a sloping fence will work, however, my personal preference would be to cut the rebate for the field and then complete the raise by eye judging how I need to tip the plane I'm using to get the angle I want. Last raise I did was on the underside of a circular table top -- working to pencil lines. It's not as precise as a raise cut wholely by machine, but fingers can't detect the inevitable slight differences as you move around the top.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  9. #23
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    Yes your method does work but it is a lengthy process and mistakes can easily occur like when I knicked the field. Also trying to maintain the same angle all around using your method is a challenge.

  10. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by section1 View Post
    Yes your method does work but it is a lengthy process and mistakes can easily occur like when I knicked the field. Also trying to maintain the same angle all around using your method is a challenge.
    Section, all hand work is 'workmanship of risk', and it took me quite a while to learn to work quickly & confidently without too many disasters. But after a while, you find your own ways of minimising the risk and achieving the desired level of quality in a reasonable time frame. You may be striving for a level of perfection that isn't within the capabilities of the tools & methods you are using? To my mind, you should be able to safely raise a pretty decent panel after a bit of practice, using a combination of rebate & bench planes. The time it takes should diminish quite a bit as you become familiar with the steps & tools, but in my experience, it takes a while to become really slick at what may seem pretty simple tasks. Remember that blokes like Derek have been mucking about with hand tools for many years, and what he finds relatively simple and intuitive may not be so for someone with less hand-tool experience.....

    Cheers,
    IW

  11. #25
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    Yes IanW I completely agree with you so far I have finally achieved the results I was looking for but what you said I couldn't agree with you more.

  12. #26
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    What A DH I am after 3 days fart arsing around trying different methods I ended up resorting to a no.4 and did it that way.

  13. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by section1 View Post
    What A DH I am after 3 days fart arsing around trying different methods I ended up resorting to a no.4 and did it that way.
    ... you can create most of the raise using a bench plane, switching to the specialist plane for the last bit.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  14. #28
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    I'm not sure how I can use the specialty after doing it by eye reason being I already created an angle and the fence I originally made is a different angle so it would look kind of off. Besides I'm quite content for the moment the way it's turned out, I created on both sides raised panels so I can fit it into the grooves, I did try before making rabbets on the underside but it's trying to get it to fit snuggley without gaps was the most difficult part atleat this way I didn't have to worry about any gaps showing and it was much faster, apparently that's how they used to do it way back then.

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