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3rd September 2010, 09:38 PM #31Member
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3rd September 2010, 09:57 PM #32
I was expecting the postage to take some time, it turns out it came faster. However I was unable to get a full set this time, I only got a few left over strays to tie me over, until we do the next run.
If you cannot do the grinding you could send it to rippon, and they could do it for you. It would cost, $25 per chisel x 8 which comes to $200 plus postage.
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3rd September 2010, 10:35 PM #33Member
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Which set you you getting the long or the short. If you want I'll send you my long set and wait for the next run. I have a long set I don't think I'll get around to the second set for some time. You just have to be able to grind them or get rippon to do it for you. Let me know if that works for you.
Update I did start the 25mm and will finish that one if you want to do the rest...It takes an IQ of about 70 for a person to learn to tie a shoe lace. Now! I know why 98% of the population wears flip flops and or slip-ons.
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3rd September 2010, 10:40 PM #34
Its OK, two fingers, I will be fine with what I have.
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4th September 2010, 03:27 PM #35Member
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All,
I could not resist and, despite having several unfinished restorations, prioritised the new chisels!
I used the needle file set to fit the ferrules very snugly to each chisel; a little slow but a tight fit can be achieved (and a few files broken).
I chose the stepped hole method and experimented with a similar piece of timber; I used 4mm, 6mm, 7.5mm and 8.25mm bits to carefully controlled depths (with a drill stop). Done in the lathe with the handle wrapped in a cloth and manually centered, any issues with the holes off-axis were sorted (5 of 8 were off axis).
Next came a file at the sides with a square needle file to form the 'wings' for the tang, then with a tight fit about 20mm form home, a soft mallet was used to tap the tang home (don't forget to fit the ferrule first). Stunning job, tight, no heat, no glue. Very, very impressed with the beauty and quality.
All 7 will be done this afternoon and the final sanding and finishing commenced.
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4th September 2010, 06:17 PM #36regards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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4th September 2010, 08:34 PM #37
I did think about making smaller handles for the smaller sizes also, but ended up going with all the same, as the blades are all the same length and the furrules are the same size, so I thought it would look better to keep them all the same.
I used Blackbean for the handles, as the stuff I have got has some sentimental value to me, as my Dad helped me mill it up about 10 years ago. I was tempted to go with some of the flashier timbers that I have, but ended up sticking with the Blackbean, as they are paring chisels I think it will be OK, if they were ever going to be hit I would have gone with Cooktown Ironwood like I normally use for most handles I make.
I finished them with Penetrol, I put on 3 coats and wet sanded the last coat to fill the grain.
Check out Penetrol here -
The Flood Company Australia
I notice when I put the pics up last night that one of the handles wasn't rounded on the end like the others so I put it back on the lathe today and finished it off better.
It's the 5th one from the left,
Attachment 146500
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5th September 2010, 02:49 PM #38Member
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Well the concept chisel is done so now I need to stop neglecting everything else in my life.
Handle inspiration came from a picture found somewhere on the internet. The wood came from a fence post I had kicking around for the last couple years - think it's iron bark. I went with the aluminum ferrule to eliminate oxidation problems with steel and brass. The combination seems to work.
But that's it the rest will have to wait till the holidays. Wife, work and school are in need of attention.It takes an IQ of about 70 for a person to learn to tie a shoe lace. Now! I know why 98% of the population wears flip flops and or slip-ons.
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5th September 2010, 03:00 PM #39
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5th September 2010, 03:02 PM #40
Hi 2F
Sadly aluminium also oxidizes.
I like the look of the patina on aging brass.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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5th September 2010, 04:36 PM #41Member
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It does but it's much slower when you use marine grade and for some reason brass goes a real ugly patchy green and dark brown tarnish colour with my skin oils.
You guys are really gonna love grinding bevels on this stuff, hard as hell, so keep your wheel dressed. I hate to think how much of a white wheel would be left after a set of these... At least even if you blue it, it won't hurt the steel too much; just your pride...It takes an IQ of about 70 for a person to learn to tie a shoe lace. Now! I know why 98% of the population wears flip flops and or slip-ons.
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5th September 2010, 04:48 PM #42Member
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5th September 2010, 06:34 PM #43
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5th September 2010, 08:07 PM #44
This morning I went to the Canberra Wood show, partially to man the ANU stand, but to also to find a small jewelers file to open the sockets.
I walked up to a stand selling files and I pull out my brass ferrule/socket, when I notice the guy standing next to me, happens to have the same brass socket in his hand. It turns out that its Scorp. Small world.
I ended up buying this small file, it worked fine, with a few strokes I was able to open the hole enough to get a good fit, however it was not ideal, because a single stroke could be a stroke to far.
Attachment 146623
However the easier and better method of fitting the sockets to the chisels is to use a file to add a chamfer to the end of the tang.
Attachment 146628
Then to grip the chisel in a woodworking vice, with the tang of the chisel sticking out above the chop of the vice. Then place the socket over the end of the tang and using a small wooden mallet tap the socket/ferrule down the tang. As the sockets descends the tangs the brass is peened by the steel to create a seamless fit. The this worked extremely easily, and gives a perfect friction fit. Once the socket is fully seated, you can tap the socket of the tang, and using a file clean up the end of socket, as the peening causes a small amount of brass to bulge out.
Attachment 146626Attachment 146625
If you are looking to get a perfect fit, between the brass socket and shoulder of the chisel. You will need to be aware that the shoulder for some god forsaken reason are not square or inline with each other. For some reason the water jet made one shoulder higher then the other. The best thing to do is to file the lower shoulder square and flat, and then bring down the opposing shoulder to match. Using a square to check.
Attachment 146631
I had a go at flattening the backs of four chisels using a 700 grit King stone. It took less then 4 minutes per chisels to remove the machine marks and to arrive at that dull polish. So I am happy with the quality of grind.
Attachment 146627
The next step is to turn some handles, and to fit them, I have some nice elm that will do nicely. Then comes the polish, I want these girls to shine, like a chisel in the eye.
Attachment 146624
I have been showing the chisels around the workshop and I already have people asking if and when I will make more.
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5th September 2010, 08:42 PM #45Member
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OK you guys - mine are done but for the drying of the handles. Stunning, stunning tools, beautiful beyond a doubt. My handles are Blackwood and they have a deep sheen and grain like top notch furniture..... several polishes on the lathe with steel wool down to OOOO grade helps.
Now to make a cassette for them to sit in, suspended ready to use but handles not touching the case. And waiting for their missing 12mm brother. Wish I had ordered two sets....... Thank you to TS and DJ.
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