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5th September 2010, 08:46 PM #46
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5th September 2010 08:46 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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5th September 2010, 09:45 PM #47
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5th September 2010, 10:04 PM #48
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6th September 2010, 06:15 PM #49Senior Member
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- May 2008
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- Vermont, VIC
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My set
G'day mates,
Completed my set today.
Took a bit of time to hollow grind and polish their backs due to their hardness. All of them are sharpened and ready for work.
Currently, the chisels are attached to the handles without any adhesives. I figure this should do it since these are paring chisels. The ferrules were a tad loose with the chisels but held tight enough with the chisels in place.
Handles were finished with Shellawax using the "shoe-shine" method. I clamped the blades with handles hanging off the table. Applied a light coat and buff with a long piece of cloth. Two coats now and will let it sit a few days before giving it 2 more.
Thank you for TS, DJ and all that have contributed to this endeavour. Now, I just to build my skills to justify them.
Cheers
Gunn
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6th September 2010, 06:57 PM #50
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6th September 2010, 09:02 PM #51
Gunn
They are awesome - I am jealous.
I like the Shellawax finish, might look into that
What method did you use to enlarge the handle?
Kapex
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6th September 2010, 09:20 PM #52Senior Member
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- May 2008
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Cheers mate. To enlarge the hole in the handle, I "step" drilled. I measured the tang in 0.5mm intervals, starting at 3.5mm until 7.5mm. I transferred the depth of each interval to a corresponding drill bit.
I then "drilled" with the appropriate bit into the depth as measured on the tang. Not having a drill press, I relied on the pilot hole that came with the handle. I fit the bit to a small hand drill and slowly turn the chisel handle into the bit while securing the drill from spinning, i.e. instead of the bit spinning, I spin the handle into the bit.
Because the tang are almost exactly the same, I was able to drill all the handles for each interval before progressing to the next interval. Hope this makes sense.
After a little fiddling, the tang and ferrule fit into the hole and held quite securely by friction.
This method is far from perfect but it will leave some leeway for adjusting when the hole is not straight.
I am thinking some epoxy to fill the gap would be ideal but I don't think that's required yet.
Gunn
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6th September 2010, 09:23 PM #53
I had some time today so I thought I should get started on my little half set.
I chose the least attractive blackwood handle to go with the 3mm chisel.(I want to get to the pretty ones next.) I figured that I could use the chisel to help with the other handles. Here are the results.
Thanks to all involved. I'm very pleased and wish I had ordered more.
Let me know what you think. (the last photo is per Ray's request)
All the best
Kevin
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6th September 2010, 10:15 PM #54
Those Blackwood handles turned up a treat once they were finished.
You blokes are making me proud, keep the photos coming.
I had a chance to assemble, the first chisel. Its not finished, I need to take it apart and to polish the socket, and adjust the mortice, as its a little skew.
I showed it to Rodney (The Head of the ANU workshop) and he had some suggestion as to how the chisels could be improved. Which was much appreciated.
I had an opportunity to sharpen the chisel, it takes a razor edge, I have not had a chance to fully test for how long it keeps its, however it should be good.
Kevjed, I need to take some lessons on good photography, you have that down pat mate.
Attachment 146771
Attachment 146769
Attachment 146770
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6th September 2010, 10:28 PM #55
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6th September 2010, 10:39 PM #56
He said that the tool was well balance and would perform admirably functionally. However the tool lacks any warmth of character and charm, due to being on plane side, devoid of detailing.
He suggested as have others that the front of the chisel handle need to form a more continues sweep into the brass socket which needs to be more tapered in its appearance. He also felt that the handle needed some work, in how the bulge forms. He also felt that the handle would benefit from a bedding, much like the blue spruce chisels.
In short, at the moment the chisel consists of three components and their is a inconsistency in how they relate and talk to each other as a whole.
It seems almost certain that I will be doing another chisel run, it is such insights that I will use to incorporate back into the next iteration.
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6th September 2010, 11:25 PM #57
Cheers TS, looking forward to the next "chisel run"
Kevin
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6th September 2010, 11:48 PM #58Member
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Just thought I'd add a bit to the discussion about loose or possible loosening tangs.
I've tried epoxy in the past with disastrous effect. The problem with epoxy is that it is completely unforgiving and doesn't allow for even the slightest flexing of the tang over a relatively long distance; it's all at a very specific point. I've had chisels with softened tangs snap right at the glue line. The breaks were incredibly clean which, to me, suggests they let go quite quickly from stress at a very specific point as they had no ability to bend, even over a few mm. With these chisels the tangs, as far as I can tell, are still hardened and tempered, which means they are less inclined to withstand the the forces exerted on them at such a very specific point. If you find the hole is too loose drill it out and glue in, with PCV glue, a new plug and start again if possible.
I have a lathe so it was easy to tune the holes by boring them out with a ever increasing set of drill bits and then using the chisel as the final drill to fit the hole well to the tang. Just make sure you spin the lathe very slowly incase the chisel catches. Even hand turning it to bung out the hole will give you a better over all fit than relying on step drilling alone. The tang edges are reasonably sharp so even with iron bark I found then reamed the hole out well. I drove the tang in so there was still about 5/8 inch left to go and then hammered them home. Seems to have been the right amount for iron bark. Your mileage may vary.
Hopefully that makes sense.It takes an IQ of about 70 for a person to learn to tie a shoe lace. Now! I know why 98% of the population wears flip flops and or slip-ons.
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6th September 2010, 11:50 PM #59.
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Real nice work guys - those BW handles look great Kevjed.
The one thing that's starting to look a little odd to me are the visible parts of the tang. I know I used this in some of mine but I don't think paring chisels don't need that level of support. Especially the narrow ones.
I reckon they might look better with something like this profile - or nothing showing at all.
Attachment 146794
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7th September 2010, 07:39 PM #60
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