Thread: Phil Edwards uk) Moulding Planes.

Very, very nice. I bet that cost you a packet .

Cheers, Vann.

Snipe Bills;


Side Rounds;


1/4" Side Beads;


3/8" Side Beads;


1/2" Side Beads;

A couple of questions if I may Stewie; I assume the side rounds and spill bills are for making roundovers, ovolos and coves but to get these profiles do you have to work them into the face of the board and then trim off the uncut part to get the desired edge? I'm just trying to work out how you would register these two planes against an edge; although they can be run against a batten as a guide won't the profiles tend to try to push the plane away from it? I have a picture of this technique somewhere if my description is too shoddy to make sense...
And can all these moulding planes be used across the grain too?

Chief; the above mentioned moulding planes are best worked on long grain. To answer your questions on the role of the Snipe Bills & Side Rounds I have attached the following info from Matt Bickfords site.

regards Stewie;

Snipe Bills; Musings from Big Pink: Snipes Bill Planes: an introduction

Side Rounds; Musings from Big Pink: Cove, Astragal and an Introduction to Side Rounds

Wow; I was totally wrong in what those planes were for! I thought they were complete moulding profiles but now I understand they are tools used for refining mouldings and used in conjunction with others.

Today's lesson learnt; thank you!

Wow, I just got a bad case of sticker shock by going to Phil Edwards website and seeing the price of these things. Now I’m wondering why someone who’s screen name is ‘planemaker’ is buying someone else’s wooden planes?

Planes with boxing like that are problematic for a hobby maker (speaking from experience). It's extremely difficult just to get suitable boxwood (big enough in the right orientation) to make the boxing. In the US, Larry Williams uses persimmon, which works suitably well, but is unsightly.

Not sure how phil makes the beads, but a scraping fixture would probably have to be made for the hobby maker to make those accurately, and to make something like that for one plane and then trouble through it, sometimes it's easier to just buy some planes.

If you figure out how to make them as a maker, you can always sell purchased planes later. I'm too cheap to buy planes like those, but I did buy full set of griffiths slipped beading planes instead of trying to make them. I will eventually try to make them (and so too might stewie), but there are lots of other things that we can make more productively.

The following shows the newly arrived skew edge floats in use to fine tune the fit of the wooden wedges on a partial set of hollows and rounds.

The wooden wedges have been fettled into their abutments, and the cutting irons tempered to 200*C.

The cutting irons profiles were lightly worked with the file before being sharpened.

Sanded back to 400 grit.
2 coats of Danish Oil.
48 hrs to harden.
Rubbed back with Pumice.
1 coat of Paste Wax.
Power buffed to a satin sheen.

Work on the partial set of hollows and rounds have now been completed.

Stewie;

Prepped some Aust. Cedar to test out the hollow & rounds and the recently purchased moulding planes. 1st up was the 1/2" side bead planes.

Stewie;





The stock was then ripped down to a smaller dimension, and a reeded profile was completed using the 1/2" hollow, and snipe bills.

It never ceases to amaze how much can be learned by quiet observation rather than interruptive ranting. Thanks for posting this Stewie, it has been very enjoyable..

B

Used the 1/2 rounds moulding planes today to shape an 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" single Cove moulding.

After marking out the end profiles, the majority of waste was then removed on the table saw.







Then it was on to using the moulding planes, followed by a final clean up with sand paper.