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  1. #16
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    Feb 2019
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    Te Awamutu, New Zealand
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chief Tiff View Post
    That’s a 1980’s Record Rebate & Fillister plane, I have one too. As rebate planes go it’s one of the very best ever made.

    So, how moany planes are you going for? 10?

    In that case it’s 4 down, 46 to go...
    I just said the last bit of your post to my lady and she showed me the damned rolling pin and explained what she would do with it if I did that and then ended the threat with even though I know you actually do use them and me saying at least they won't go blunt so quickly didn't go down too good she clipped me across the ear hole lol

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    Brisbane (western suburbs)
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    77
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    Well, Skilsaw, you just have to demonstrate what you can do with your new planes to placate SWMBO. At least get a run or two on the board before broaching the subject of another tool purchase!

    Not sure if we're the best or worst mob to seek help from - most are either developing hand-tool addiction, totally in its grip, or desperately trying to get clean, here....

    Cheers,
    IW

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Te Awamutu, New Zealand
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    50
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    Well, Skilsaw, you just have to demonstrate what you can do with your new planes to placate SWMBO. At least get a run or two on the board before broaching the subject of another tool purchase!

    Not sure if we're the best or worst mob to seek help from - most are either developing hand-tool addiction, totally in its grip, or desperately trying to get clean, here....

    Cheers,
    Oh she has seen my handy work with the #4 and the #5 planes, the wood in the pic has only had the planes over it to flush trim it all

    Sent from my SM-J810Y using Tapatalk

  5. #19
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    Feb 2019
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    Te Awamutu, New Zealand
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    Here it is I am impressed, can't wait to try it out just need to sharpen it first. Also have a stanley #3 that i won an auction for $24NZ plus shipping which will be a restoration project before I get to use it so that will be 5 planes that I now own.

    Sent from my SM-J810Y using Tapatalk

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Bundaberg
    Age
    54
    Posts
    3,402

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    Here is an article written by Derek Cohern on using rebate planes; https://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furnit...atePlanes.html

    Like him I also added a wooden sub fence; in my case I used 3/8" thick hardwood about 40mm deep.

    And also like him; I take a nick out of my port index finger every. Single. Time!

    Last thing; check that the bottom of the depth stops is actually parallel with the plane base. Often they are a few degrees out; nothing that a few minutes with a file can't cure.
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Te Awamutu, New Zealand
    Age
    50
    Posts
    217

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chief Tiff View Post
    Here is an article written by Derek Cohern on using rebate planes; https://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furnit...atePlanes.html

    Like him I also added a wooden sub fence; in my case I used 3/8" thick hardwood about 40mm deep.

    And also like him; I take a nick out of my port index finger every. Single. Time!

    Last thing; check that the bottom of the depth stops is actually parallel with the plane base. Often they are a few degrees out; nothing that a few minutes with a file can't cure.
    That little article was a great read thanks for sharing it with me I have book marked it for reading again. I will be adding a wooden sub fence to the main fence as per yours and the articles suggestion, the iron has been sharpened and I have had a little play with it on an offcut of 4x2 and I like it to keep my left hand out of the way I hold onto the bull nose with it I wish I could shape up a bit of wood to slot in the bull nose and add a handle to it

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Bundaberg
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    54
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    3,402

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    WS Tools in the UK used to make their rebate plane with a front handle, see here: Number 78 Plane Type Study - WS Tools Birmingham

    IanW also made a handle for his plane, although his is more of a knob that sticks out at a right angle from the bed rather than the upright handle seen on the WS or Woden planes.

    Here is another rebate plane user guide too, this one is by Paul Sellers: https://paulsellers.com/2016/05/reba...letster-plane/
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    blue mountains
    Posts
    4,882

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chief Tiff View Post
    WS Tools in the UK used to make their rebate plane with a front handle, see here: Number 78 Plane Type Study - WS Tools Birmingham

    IanW also made a handle for his plane, although his is more of a knob that sticks out at a right angle from the bed rather than the upright handle seen on the WS or Woden planes.

    Here is another rebate plane user guide too, this one is by Paul Sellers: https://paulsellers.com/2016/05/reba...letster-plane/
    I have the WS with the front wood handle and think it is a great addition giving really good control of the plane. Woden kept the handle when they took over from WS. When Record then took over they dropped it perhaps for cost.
    That said it would be an easy task for a woodworker to make a handle as the hole for the screw is there. I noticed that Anant (made in India)now put out a version of the 78 with the handle again.
    Regards
    John

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Brisbane (western suburbs)
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    77
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chief Tiff View Post
    .....IanW also made a handle for his plane, although his is more of a knob that sticks out at right-angle from the bed.....
    Yep, like this: Knob1.jpg

    I was lazy, CT, I could've cut the base of the knob at an angle, but decided it would be simpler to fit it straight to the bed. The good news is that a 1/4" Whitworth bolt fits the screw hole on my Stanley, making the job simple, you don't need a special thread.

    It was more of a 'try it & see' operation, my thinking being that if it seemed like a good thing & worth the extra effort, I'd make a new knob along the Woden lines, later. As it turns out, this one works perfectly ok, I use it all the time, but it does look a bit funny, I agree. Some day, maybe, I'll get around to doing it 'properly'. But don't anyone hold their breath.....

    Cheers,

    Edit: I searched for the post where I showed how I went about it, but the search engine refuses to come up with it, so if anyone can find it, please feel free to post the link....
    IW

  11. #25
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    Feb 2019
    Location
    Te Awamutu, New Zealand
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    50
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    217

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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    Yep, like this: Knob1.jpg

    I was lazy, CT, I could've cut the base of the knob at an angle, but decided it would be simpler to fit it straight to the bed. The good news is that a 1/4" Whitworth bolt fits the screw hole on my Stanley, making the job simple, you don't need a special thread.

    It was more of a 'try it & see' operation, my thinking being that if it seemed like a good thing & worth the extra effort, I'd make a new knob along the Woden lines, later. As it turns out, this one works perfectly ok, I use it all the time, but it does look a bit funny, I agree. Some day, maybe, I'll get around to doing it 'properly'. But don't anyone hold their breath.....

    Cheers,

    Edit: I searched for the post where I showed how I went about it, but the search engine refuses to come up with it, so if anyone can find it, please feel free to post the link....
    So does that screw into where the screw that the guide slit on the iron and the part that clamps down onto the iron slots into?

    Sent from my SM-J810Y using Tapatalk

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Brisbane (western suburbs)
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    77
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skilsaw View Post
    So does that screw into where the screw that the guide slit on the iron and the part that clamps down onto the iron slots into?...
    Yes, Skil, but to use the more conventional terminology () it's the screw-hole in the forward blade bed where you place the retaining screw for the lever-cap when you wish to move the blade to the 'bull-nose' position. I have never had occasion to move the blade forward on mine (I have a couple of other bull-nose planes for those rare occasions they are necessary), but if the need ever arises, it would only take a few seconds to remove the handle.

    As I said, the lever-cap screw on mine matches a 1/4" Whitworth or NC thread, which made matters easy. Had it been some less-common size like so many threads on Stanley planes, I would've either had to scratch about for a matching bolt, bought the appropriate die (expensive!), or re-tapped the hole to a convenient size.

    The handle/knob is handy to me because I use my 78 mostly for cleaning up tenons, a job I find it does very well. If you only use the plane for its intended purpose (making rebates), the knob isn't all that handy, because when planing a rebate, most (right handed) folks use their left hand to hold the fence or fence-rods so they can keep the plane snugged up against the edge of the board being worked on.

    Cheers,
    IW

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    383

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    New Zealand

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    383

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    Hi Skilsaw,
    this post is about your 13-052 combination plane. I own one of these and I have difficulty sourcing cutter blades for it but for another reason than length.
    Warning - older Stanley 55 and 45 blades are 1/8 inch thick which is too thick to fit into the slot on the plane body for the blades to slide up and down in.
    Record 405 plane blades fit just fine as regards length and thickness, as do the genuine Stanley 13-050 and 052 combo plane blades.

    The plane also uses metric threads, due to it being made in England in the latter part of the 20th century.
    There are some useful threads in this forum, just search on stanley 13-052
    Paul
    New Zealand

  15. #29
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    Feb 2019
    Location
    Te Awamutu, New Zealand
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    50
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    Quote Originally Posted by paul.cleary View Post
    Hi Skilsaw,
    this post is about your 13-052 combination plane. I own one of these and I have difficulty sourcing cutter blades for it but for another reason than length.
    Warning - older Stanley 55 and 45 blades are 1/8 inch thick which is too thick to fit into the slot on the plane body for the blades to slide up and down in.
    Record 405 plane blades fit just fine as regards length and thickness, as do the genuine Stanley 13-050 and 052 combo plane blades.

    The plane also uses metric threads, due to it being made in England in the latter part of the 20th century.
    There are some useful threads in this forum, just search on stanley 13-052
    Paul
    Hi Paul the only irons I have purchased so far on ebay are 6mm and 9mm irons and have others on my watchlist but only bought ones for the 13-050 and the same seller is happy to make up a set for me at a pretty decent price including shipping from England.

  16. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Jervis Bay South Coast NSW
    Posts
    354

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    Quote Originally Posted by orraloon View Post
    I have the WS with the front wood handle and think it is a great addition giving really good control of the plane. Woden kept the handle when they took over from WS. When Record then took over they dropped it perhaps for cost.
    That said it would be an easy task for a woodworker to make a handle as the hole for the screw is there. I noticed that Anant (made in India)now put out a version of the 78 with the handle again.
    Regards
    John
    There is a ws on ebay at the moment https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F264241375480 not mine.

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