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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
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    Sydney
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    613

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    Have been making some shavings on a palette that will be used to make a plane carry box on the weekend. The #5 does great but it's choking up on the rougher spots, even with the mouth opened right up. Is that where the scrub plane comes in handy? What exactly is a scrub plane, eg I know the Stanley #7 is a jointer, the #5 is a Jack....is there a similar number most brands used for a scrub?

    *EDIT** - this pretty much gave me the answers I need, thanks anyway!

    http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRev...b%20Plane.html

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Mainland N.Z.
    Posts
    877

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    Choking can also be caused by other factors. Trying to take too deep a cut, issues with the chip-breaker, resin or moisture content of the timber etc

    Dedicated jack planes also benefit from a slight camber on the blade.....amongst other things it means that you are less likely to choke the mouth with a full width shaving.

    But, by all means, buy another plane.


    Does anybody know if Aldi are still stocking that cheap wooden German jack plane?
    We don't know how lucky we are......

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    613

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    I know Gasweld keeps a cheap indian made jack for about $25, and bunnings has one at a similar price. They both look like they'd need a serious run in a with a bastard file before you could use them though, the casting is so rough.

    I think I may have found a rather unorthodox solution to the problem actually. SWMBO's dad was a car enthusiast and when we helped her mother clean out the garage I picked up two tools her brother was throwing out - a ding dong brand hacksaw and what I took to be a surforming tool of some sort - turned out to be a sykes-pickavant bodyblade made for auto body repair work. It got thrown into the toolbox and forgotten, until today when I was looking at the pictures of scrub planes with their curved blades...

    The thing is basically a flat base of slightly sharp curved blades. Run it over the rough stock and it basically flattens all the really bumpy stuff. Then use the number five going with the grain in diagonals like you would with a scrub and then go over it like normal and I seem to be getting much better results. I have plans to build what some here are calling my 'mongrel wood bench' this weekend so this method will get tested throughly then. Will let you know the results.

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    97

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    I hope it's okay to tack on to someone elses's posting but as Andrew original question mirrors my own I did not think it worth starting a new thread.

    Currently I only own one plane a Record #4. So I'm looking for some suggestiuons as well.

    I mainly work with pine and the occasional bit of recovered old timber that needs cleaning/trueing up.

    I wont be trying to make lots of stuff. More for handyman jobs around the home.

    So just looking for a Jack, block and I guess a smoothing plane.
    Something a bit better then the $45 Bunnings jobs but not Pro quality with pricing to match.

    Mike

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,756

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mychael View Post
    So just looking for a Jack, block and I guess a smoothing plane.
    Something a bit better then the $45 Bunnings jobs but not Pro quality with pricing to match.
    Unfortunately, unless you can find used Stanleys or similar, there's not much between the cheap and the decent planes.

    HTN Gordon planes are very good but you'll be looking at ~$200 for the block and a bit more for a Jack or a smoother. Prices for Veritas are similar.

    Another type of plane worth considering are shoulder planes.

    BTW I have never regretted paying for an expensive plane as they are a joy to used.

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