Thread: Planes vs Sandpaper

I've been pretty happy with finishing more or less straight off the plane or scraper. However, I like to use shellac, wax and blo type finishes. Inevitably, I need to use some sort of abrasive to bring these up to standard.

I have rolls and packs of different grades of steel wool in my finishing cabinet and use abrasive papers either on a cork block or "free-hand".

One of my main reasons for using abrasive papers is for sanding back grain fillers, which isn't something a plane would help with.

For a while I also had bronze wool, which I preferred to the steel. I got the bronze wool from a retired engineer and haven't seen any in the stores since. I don't even know if it's still available, but it was great stuff.

Horaldic


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Originally Posted by jimbur

Nice one Ian - but, like heaven, they're out of my reach.
Cheers,
Jim

Don't wory Jim, I think most of the people you or I would prefer to spend our time with will all be together in the same place......
Cheers,

Slight bumping :P

At my current point in time, I have predominantly been working with veneered surfaces, curved chairs and the like, so my planes have been safely tucked away for a while. I personally sand most surfaces, just because that is how I like to do things, usually sand to 320, 3-4 coats of oil, then apply 2 coats of wax with 0000 steel wool. Do wish I could achieve a nice level of finish off the plane, but might have to practice a bit more before I try on a near finished piece :P

Here's my two cents worth ...

There is another reason to work with hand planes than simply the finish. There is dimensioning. Where possible, one can combine planing the section to size and leaving it ready for a finish. This is not as easy with sanding. Sanding can distort the edges and surface.

Having said this, I have a fine array of sanding rolls and an antique Festo ROS that do come out along with scrapers when planes cannot do the job. Rounded or curved surfaces, irregular shapes, rounding an edge - there are many situations where a piece of sandpaper goes that a blade will not. The downside to sandpaper is the dust, not just in the air but also as it obscures detail and dries out my hands (which have a tendency to crack).

The one rule I have is not to mix sanded, planed or scraped surfaces for a finish on a large or flat surface as they leave a different appearance.

Regards from Perth

Derek

There has been a fair bit said about how individuals would, / prefer, to get a piece ready, using planes, paper etc, to apply a finish such as oil, wax, poly, shellac etc. I assume that people that have commented, may have a particular type, or specific project in mind.

So to get a bit more focussed it would be interesting to hear how individuals would tackle the same project and I attach the following images of a chair in American White Oak, with a woven cane seat.
What materials, tools, paper would you choose to prepare a chair like this, and what finish would you apply.

Regards

Originally Posted by Basilg

There has been a fair bit said about how individuals would, / prefer, to get a piece ready, using planes, paper etc, to apply a finish such as oil, wax, poly, shellac etc. I assume that people that have commented, may have a particular type, or specific project in mind.

So to get a bit more focussed it would be interesting to hear how individuals would tackle the same project and I attach the following images of a chair in American White Oak, with a woven cane seat.
What materials, tools, paper would you choose to prepare a chair like this, and what finish would you apply.

Regards

Now that's the way a HSC student should couch a woodwork project question
I'd do it with planes, spokeshave and scrapers and I'd probably hotpipe bend the back slats which is going to lift the grain if they are water-soaked first, but a scraper will probably deal with that. Finish, whatever is your poison.

Originally Posted by mic-d

Now that's the way a HSC student should couch a woodwork project question
I'd do it with planes, spokeshave and scrapers and I'd probably hotpipe bend the back slats which is going to lift the grain if they are water-soaked first, but a scraper will probably deal with that. Finish, whatever is your poison.

Ditto. Finish for me would be a proper tung danish oil - american oak responds very well to oiling.

Sage advice from Derek about mix and match finishing especially if you are going to stain the wood.
Cheers,
Jim