Thread: A Question about Electrolysis.

Apparently using Chrome causes all sorts of nasty compounds to form in the water - poisonous stuff.

All of the advice that I have read says to avoid chrome and stainless steel.
I have never used it.

Originally Posted by Avery

Apparently using Chrome causes all sorts of nasty compounds to form in the water - poisonous stuff.

All of the advice that I have read says to avoid chrome and stainless steel.
I have never used it.

If the chrome is on the object to be reduced (ie the neagtive terminal where the rust is reduced to iron) then this is OK. It's only when chrome or anything containing chrome (like SS) is used for the positive electrode that problems arise.

Yes it will work, If there is any rust still under the chrome it will take days to fix it and it may never do it properly so if you see any bubbles in the chrome it will be worth scraping them off.

Don't expect the rusty bits to become nice and shiny following electrolysis.
The rust will just turn black and oxidize back to original rust very easily when rusty objects are moved from the electrolysis bath.
The black is the orange/brown Fe2O3 reduced to black FeO.

After electrolysis there are many ways of treating the remaining FeO.
It can be relatively easily sanded off leaving bare metal but be careful as this may also mark the chrome.
Something like fine steel wool may be better
I paint mine with dilute phosphoric acid and this converts the FeO to iron phosphate which is blue black and rust resistant.

Originally Posted by BobL

I paint mine with dilute phosphoric acid and this converts the FeO to iron phosphate which is blue black and rust resistant.

Bob, what effect does phosphoric acid have on the Fe2O3 red rust?

Thanks,
Paul.

I'd be tempted to try the feed molasses and water route first.
$5 for 2.5 kg at a stock feed store 1:5 mix.

Needs to be feed molasses as it has the sulpher in it.


Worked OK for some items I had and you can pour it down the sink.


I did do the lectic soda and a battery charger, worked but not as good as the molasses.

Peter

I got the electrolysis working and, frankly, I am amazed at how well it works!
It save hours of wire brushing and I don't have all that rusty dust going up my nostrils - an OHS plus!
Thanks for the advice!

An extra question:
How long does the solution last? Does the process use it up or is it just a medium?

Hi,
The solution is just to provide a medium through which the electrons flow. It is not used up by the process (apart from converting water to oxygen and hydrogen). You may want to renew it if it gets too filthy to see what you're doing, though.

Regards,
Chris.

Good (short) article:

Rust Removal by Electrolysis - The Woodworkers Institute

Originally Posted by pmcgee

Good (short) article:

Rust Removal by Electrolysis - The Woodworkers Institute

Nice and clear too. I had been wondering about doing several small bits at once.
Thank you!

To PMcgee & Fly,
There is an easier way to do the Electrolysis than that way shown.
Google HTPAA, Hand Tool Preservation Assoc. of Aust.
The Chap goes through the whole way of doing it & with Photos as well.
Do NOT do this inside, as it creates Hydrogen, & could Explode.

Fly, not a great Idea of using molasses, as it will eat your Steel.
Go for Vinegar & Water, easier. About 8 of W to 1of Vinegar. Its best to cover it as it will Evaporate. You may need to add either V or Water occasionally. You can leave it for 2 or 3 weeks. I clean the pieces in hot water & Washing Powder & a Brass Brush.
Run under hot water, & dry with an old Towel.

Hey all, that was My 1000th. piece.

Hi Issatree,

I'd have to disagree with you re the molasses eating the steel. I've been using it for a couple of years and haven't had that happen yet.
It is a pretty slow process but I think that if you're not in a hurry its a reasonably good rust removal method.

regards,
Geoff.

Hi Geoff,
I belong to the Hand Tool Preservation Assoc. of Aust., & there would be noway, one of the Tool People would use the Stuff.

I would think Vinegar & Water is the easier way, & this is what I use.
The Electrolysis is the best way, & a whole lot quicker by far.
Anyway, it is Horses for Courses.

No one has mentioned citric acid. I only came across this stuff recently. Previous to this I used vinegar too. The citric acid is good for the small stuff or a bunch of small stuff.

I recently cleaned up a No 5 plane and put all the loose stuff e.g. the blade, chip breaker, frog and nuts etc into a bath of citric acid and used electrolyses on the body of the plane. Both came up well.

The citric acid bath is quicker and easier, but for me the electrolyses really does the big stuff well.

TT

Agreed TT.

I am only new to this plane cleaning stuff.
Previously I used mechanical means wire brush, scraper, Sisal wheel, Cloth wheel, etc. All of which worked well but took a lot of time and created a lot of dust.
I am rapt in this electrolysis system! It is fast, quiet, effective and dust free!
I used it ten days ago for the first time and I was amazed at how good it really was.
Now I am looking for rusty stuff to clean up.
Thank you all.
Haven't tried the citric acid bath yet.