Thread: Raised panels

I usually go for the table saw then clean up with the badger or shoulder plane, or if there is enough to do it's the spindle moulder and on to hand planes. I have a panel raiser, somewhere? .
I made a couple, years back with just the hand planes ,The 78 Stanley and cabinet scraper. this was before I got into the gathering of tools
The Badger plane is a great plane for cleaning them up and for cleaning up large bridge construction type tenons as well.
Wait till you want to do one with the domed top half circle to it , The only way I could clean them up properly was to make a left and right chisel for the job. that was my solution to it anyway.

This is what I mean . the type of chisel to clean that up from the opposite direction of the arrows needed a matching pair of 45 degree skews.

Originally Posted by Berlin

Another technique question:

I'm about to make (if time permits before I chuff off o.s) a large box seat and purely for the experience wanted to put proper panels in, not ply as I have done in the past. the few timber panels I've made I raised on the table saw, but I'm on the hand tool wagon and don't want to fall off at the first temptation. I know theoretically what to do but I'd interested to here what your approaches are.

In raising a panel, do you use a specialised plane, like a badger or something? Or do you press your shoulder planes into the task or have you made something specific? Do you need matched pairs for doing long and cross grain or is it a case of tidying up the end grain after the panel is formed?

I'm keen for any thoughts or advice.

Cheers

Hi Berlin

There are a couple of pictorials on my website:

Making the frames: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furnitu...dtheframe.html



Making the panels: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furnitu...ingapanel.html



The primary plane used was the LV Skew Rabbet Plane, using two different fences (one for rebates and the other for the field) ..



You can get away with one, although it is handy to have the pair when dealing with difficult grain.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks, Auscab. I see what you mean about the curve creating headaches but you clearly showed it who's boss. Very nice!

Thanks, Derek, they are great little tuts. I might have to adapt some sort of fence for my skew shoulder plane... Not ideal perhaps, but I should be able to get a decent result.

You set your back rebate to exactly the depth of your groove. I would have presumed it needed a little extra to account for movement, or have I misunderstood?

Cheers

Originally Posted by Berlin

I might have to adapt some sort of fence for my skew shoulder plane... Not ideal perhaps, but I should be able to get a decent result.


Cheers

Yeah that would work . As you would know, If you wanted to spend the time you could make a wooden one .
Rather than go to the trouble of doing it traditional where you need a float you can make the plane in two halves, cut it all out and stick it together. have you seen that?

I have a Blackwood user made plane like that. the guy who made it put a dowel up the front and a tenon down the back.It took me a year to figure out why they were there. one day I spotted the join

Originally Posted by auscab

Yeah that would work . As you would know, If you wanted to spend the time you could make a wooden one .
Rather than go to the trouble of doing it traditional where you need a float you can make the plane in two halves, cut it all out and stick it together. have you seen that?

I have a Blackwood user made plane like that. the guy who made it put a dowel up the front and a tenon down the back.It took me a year to figure out why they were there. one day I spotted the join

Yeah I think I know what you mean

I'm just mucking around at the moment hand fencing the shoulder plane and eyeballing the angle... I'm not going to win any prizes yet but with a fence and some practice I think she'll manage.

Hi Berlin

The depth of the groove can vary for end grain versus long grain movement. The little jig was only to get the spacing equal around the sides. and then you can trim away the excess.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by derekcohen

Hi Berlin

The depth of the groove can vary for end grain versus long grain movement. The little jig was only to get the spacing equal around the sides. and then you can trim away the excess.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Right. That makes perfect sense.

Thanks

This is what I was talking of Berlin . If you ever wanted to make your own that is.and spend an extra 15 to 20 hours possibly
This Blackwood Jack plane was made in two parts, and the maker tenoned and doweled it for good measure . see the end shot with the join. A good book that describes how to do it as well .

With your box have you drawn it up ? Just wondering , They don't go together to well unless drawn, how the panel fits the rail or stile and where that sits in relation to the mortice and tenon. Does not have to be fancy and can be done on a scrap bit of wood.You may know this and sorry if I'm preaching

Rob

OK. Yep that's what I thought you meant I made one recently where I bored through and then chiseled out the rest. It wasn't pretty but it panned out OK. Next time I may well build in parts. I've seen them created in four parts too, two cheeks and two central pieces, one fore and one aft of the mouth.

I have drawn a pic of the seat... on the wall where the seats going . Essentially, it is one frame, 2380 x 430 broken into four panels, which will stretch between two walls and constitute the front of the seat. The top will be four matching piano hinged seat lids attached to a rail screwed to the wall. It'll just be Hoop because I have a stack of rough boards. They're only 35mm thick so I might track down some thicker stock for the rails and stiles...

Also, don't hesitate to point things out that you think need to be considered. I'm still pretty green and happy for pointers

Cheers
Matt

35 mm is thick enough if you want to go for a traditional look, I think if I walked around and measured all the antique panel and frame originals around me most will come in with rails and stiles at about 30 or less and panels at 19 or less. I'm thinking things like Coffers , Chests , probably church pews as well, maybe the ends of them are from 50 mm ? Not sure. The French Amoire is something you would see thicker timbers in the corner posts of the main cabinet. That's just some of the old stuff, doesent mean you have to follow that. Panels from 35 and rails from 50 is big, and would look good.
Rob.

Hmm... Yeah I think I'll try it with what I've got. It's certainly the cheaper option. There are one or two boards that are more like 28 that could do for the panels and save me some dimensioning... Thanks Rob

Matt

If you are looking to build a jack plane, there is a pictorial on my website ...



http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMad...JackPlane.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

Interesting plane Derek and interesting use of the word razee - for me anyway. I'd only ever seen it applied before to ships with an upper deck cut off.
It's similar in shape to wooden jack planes that were popular in schools, the idea being, as you mentioned, of keeping the hand lower to give more control.
Cheers,
Jim