Thread: Rasp one...

I just went out to check the gramercy version - wouldn't you know it, they now also make a coarse one.

it's all of $59. Of course, I haven't looked at the handle rasps for probably 8 or 10 years since I got mine, and probably should've figured if I had a thought of "ghee, I'd like one more coarse than the basic one", 200 other people would've requested the same from joel instead of thinking "well, they don't have it. Maybe sometime, I'll make a rasp. because that's what you do when something isn't available, you just have to wait until you can make it".

David

Something is wrong with the link. It comes up as a blank screen.

Regards
Paul

Thanks for the heads up. See if this works..

Rasp video only - GIF on Imgur

Originally Posted by D.W.

Thanks for the heads up. See if this works..

Rasp video only - GIF on Imgur

Still not working for me.

Originally Posted by NeilS

Still not working for me.

Nor me.

Regards
Paul

It's working for me from my mobile. So not sure if it the link or different depending on how you access it.

Posting a screenshot until maybe the video works for everybody.



Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

Vid worked for me, sounds raspy!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ey89av6M9Y&feature=youtu.be

If you can't see imgur, try this. I uploaded the video to YouTube.

Originally Posted by D.W.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ey89av6M9Y&feature=youtu.be

If you can't see imgur, try this. I uploaded the video to YouTube.

....

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

David

Something is wrong with the link. It comes up as a blank screen.

Regards
Paul

Paul,

I took the link David gave, copied it "fresh" on my browser and it worked.

Cheers,
Yvan

rasp 2 in process - a much bigger rasp, with smaller teeth, and I guess unintended experimenting with gravers. This rasp is somewhat better annealed, but it occurs to me that the way to do this in terms of seating the rasp is to bias the holding board a little bit so that the surface is convex. That would guarantee better support and consistency with teeth in the long run. Even if it's sprung a tiny bit here, it doesn't seem to have much actually effect on tooth size, but it's annoying in terms of feel.

https://i.imgur.com/oIVPEys.jpg

I believe I've got a graver process in place now that will allow cutting four or five rows before a more or less 30 second refresh of the tip.

I also think that improvement of striking accuracy is going to go a long way toward graver life, but further improvements in annealing will allow for a more aggressive engraver tip and a taller narrower tooth without as fat of a backside.

In the rasps that I do have, when they start to get tired, though, very very little of the tooth is worn - just the very tip, and usually biased only on one side.

Which brings an interesting question to expensive rasps - liquid honing. If they were liquid honed only a tiny bit, they'd probably be better than as cut.

These teeth are dense and to tooth this one at my slow rate (one a second maybe) will take a couple of hours including graver time. Also...arthritis. holding the graver no matter how much I focus on light grip requires me to do this for a minute or two and then stop, do it for a minute or two and then stop. I think that will improve, but I have a type of arthritis that is relieved by exercise of joints and not by holding them still. One of the reasons I like handwork in general so much is this close grip isn't really required for much. the experienced grip of chisels, saw handles and plane handles is fantastically loose, but coping saws and little things like this, a little bit of pain is unavoidable. WIN_20230504_12_05_12_Pro.jpg

Fat little teeth they are on this one, but they are dense and crisp. if it turns out to be a dud in the longer term. I'll just forge it into something else or grind off the teeth and retooth it.

I should be making chisels, though. I make a crap rasp and a wonderful chisel. Even if I'm the only person who thinks the chisels are wonderful!

One more follow up to the thread - just after taking the first fat tooth picture above, I reshaped the graver slightly (figure it's a V shape bevel faced away from you coming to a point, and the back is mostly flat, with a back bevel helping a little bit if the tip doesn't hold up, but not too much of a back bevel.

Taking even 5-10 degrees or so off of the V of each side changes the tooth characteristic.

the teeth look like this instead (I just got busy yesterday afternoon after taking this picture and lost track of it).

https://i.imgur.com/Gu7ftgh.jpg

and just so you don't have to sift through the prior post, here are the teeth from the graver shape just before - very different teeth, relatively little change in the graver shape.

https://i.imgur.com/cCFrIRV.jpg

Not sure which would work better, but you can definitely fit more teeth of the narrow type when working across the blank.

I'm getting to the point with adding teeth that I am more accurate not looking closely at what I'm doing, but rather feeling both the incremental spacing and whether or not I'm striking the graver square. if you don't, then it's kind of like striking a flopping chisel (shortens edge life at the very apex considerably - when it's metal on metal, it may weaken the tip or actually remove it in one shot - especially when the steel isn't quite as soft as the softest stuff I've ever gotten in bar stock).

This is a lot like anything that I can recall woodworking by hand - you get to a point where you need to see stuff, but feeling is just as important and seeing exact things is only important right at the last cut.

to do this at the same time - figure all of the bits out - on now three rounded rasps is probably kind of stupid because initially, it's 20 times easier to do this on a flat piece of stock as following the barrel/blank on curvature is more feel than sight. Of course, you can't use feel if you don't have it so it was a little more tedious trying to correct exact graver/hammer alignment and keeping teeth going straight up the barrel when the actual line of them across the curve is diagonal.

that is, the teeth are sitting oriented different than their row orientation.

There's a woodworker here in the states who works entirely by hand who encourages this kind of thing - figuring something out and getting good at it, but then pushing to the point that it's done by feel, which subsequently makes it hard to communicate (one of the reasons, i believe that an intermediate person who is most of the way toward the feel is better at giving instructions because they recently had to consider the fine details and can't just do them like we would walk down the street or jump rope once we're no longer kids).

I'll table this for now unless I get wind of a bunch of people who want to make rasps. I don't see that happening as shaping a good proportion blank from flat stock isn't really a gimmie and if the blank isn't any good, the rasp won't be either. that and the graver. One could probably temper a square file, but I haven't done that, so can't guarantee it. Fluency in this case may be 10 large rasps away (not minimal) for someone who has hand experience doing other things. Perhaps not to a saleable degree, but to the degree that you would cut teeth.

if you're wondering why the teeth can't just be oriented with the diagonal line, it's pretty simple - if they're askew from the length of the rasp already (as they are a bit in my saw rasp) , a lazy forward push results in - not surprisingly - the rasp drifting laterally just a little.

A good tool doesn't require extra influences, so the first saw rasp is a functional mediocre tool - good enough for work. But it's not "good".

I'm not going to get good enough at these to sell them, but it might be fun to get good enough to make a few that aren't obviously amateur made, and stitching has become much more pleasant as I get more feel and the graver goes a little longer. if the annealing is improved another step or two, I think the graver could just do the whole rasp.

if you look closely at my pictures, you can see that I can't resist experimenting - the auriou graver pictures show a graver that's just been ground and nothing else, but I think they do last a little better if they're being pushed if the tip is then honed. This isn't a surprise so much, but one never knows (for example, in a slicing test, a knife with a relatively crude 200 grit edge and burr removed only will last significantly longer than an edge that's polished).

How can you tell which is which? if you look at the bottom of the tooth pits, you can see the grinding lines from a worn out 80 grit CBN wheel, and then in some others, the bottom is relatively smooth (broken in fine india stone).

For fine engraving work, polish can go much higher per discussions with Dave Barnett long ago, and one can find the same - but this is crude work compared to engraving long flowing curves with visible relief details.

If I keep at this and make a few with bigger teeth, I'm going to need to get a lump of 5160 or 1084 and make a large filemaker's hammer. the only one i've seen for sale anywhere is $300 and the dogs head hammers for saw work are "too pointy and long".

Originally Posted by D.W.

If I keep at this and make a few with bigger teeth, I'm going to need to get a lump of 5160 or 1084 and make a large filemaker's hammer. the only one i've seen for sale anywhere is $300 and the dogs head hammers for saw work are "too pointy and long".

Also, I think the dogs head hammers would be too soft for striking the graver. I have some that Rob Streeper made, but if I used them on a graver I would wreck the face. They are a more squat shape and similar to the graver hammers but round instead of angular. A different handle would have to made in a curved shape to achieve the striking angle.

Regards
Paul